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Everything posted by paxfish

  1. Ain't that the truth! I inspected over the winter and found no issues. In April we stepped the mast and found a small hole afterward which I patched. Over the next month, I patched two more new holes, praying I could nurse it through the season. But UV is insidious. It attacks everyday....
  2. Terrapin's forward tramp failed about 10 days ago. Nearly catastrophic since I went through to my waist! While underway, in good wind. ON AUTOPILOT! Tragedy narrowly averted! I built a new one out of vinyl coated poly mesh w shelterite edges. Borders are 1/2" schedule 40 PVC conduit (UV rated). I'm no seamstress, so the stitching lines suggest perhaps I was drinking heavily while cussing at my POS sewing machine. Tie lines are 3mm Dyneema. except along the hull where the fabric bolt rope is bolted to the hulls. The result seems to be up to the task. All thread is PTFE.
  3. Facnor 1500+fx Seems great though I have only furled it maybe 10 times thus far!
  4. Good points! Also I don't have running backs, and really do not want to invert my mast or something crazy like that....
  5. Thanks Gents! That is very helpful. Looks like I got pretty close. I can definitely grab more wind and carry it down with good boat speed. What does your luff look like? I'm debating whether I need to rig a 4:1 tack to increase luff tension, but I'm not sure what an optimal luff would be for a sail like this. The luff line is 6mm Dyneema and thus should be able to take a load. However, if I head up a bit high, and luff the luff, it responds with a loud CRACK! when I fall off. I would like to minimize this because of the shock on the very light fabric. It is two layers of .75
  6. Hmm - Did I have it cut too small you think? Or are you thinking a fuller cut would have made more sense?
  7. Guys - Take a quick look at this and tell me what you think of this screecher. It is a very light mylar laminate. I sort of guessed at dimensions, fabric etc. Comments on rigging, luff etc are appreciated.... https://youtu.be/Kwxgns1rIk0
  8. Hi Rush - I deleted the UV strip. I was thinking for convenience (put it up Friday, drop it on Sunday evening....) I AM considering the elastomeric acrylic enamel paint trick as well, and Intend to test it on some similar fabric. example: Doyle also has a version: Do you guys have experience with these products?
  9. Gentlemen - Please give me your "back of the napkin" opinions on my prospective purchase. I just spoke with the local sailmaker about our screecher. He is proposing a Dimension Polyant fabric called CZ-30 GP. My screecher halyard is fractional and my sprit is 2 meters. fabric info here: http://www.dimension-polyant.com/en/Spinnaker_2_6_1.php Sail area is 30 square meters. Is that roughly the size you guys are running for your roller furling screechers? Damned thing is pricey though $3100 US with the torsion rope etc.. I asked for a cut that would accommodate 5
  10. I believe the shackle crown is 18mm diameter. I hit it hard with polishing rouge and a wheel to get it to a mirror finish before I put it up. The line is Amsteel SK-75
  11. Just an update. After much consultation in various quarters, and considering the good advice here, I replaced my shrouds with 8mm SK-75, and no thimble. The shroud diameter is overkill for sure, negating any weakness in the very secure Brummels I tied. I have deadmen on the side shrouds now, which are pretty sweet. After several day sails in winds to 17knots, the construction stretch is mostly gone now, and I'm liking the security of having new shrouds! As Always, thanks to all for your input....
  12. Congrats! Pics are always useful....
  13. paxfish

    Bye Bye Taeping

    I'm curious. What would be the "proper" way to re-attach those bows? You would have limited interior access I presume....
  14. Gotcha - I'm guessing there is no way in hell I'm gonna get new thimbles installed without re-tying. I can get the old ones out without damage, I'm sure....
  15. Very good! Thank you gentlemen! Ed - I do have a ring that can be used there rather than the carbo. "Straight up the koozer!" Thanks for that bit of advice also - I did not realize that the Brummel might reduce line strength. Tell ya what though - That thing ain't moving! Without the Brummel, what length of tapered tail would I need? The same? P>S. A quick Google yields this article: http://www.chicagoyachtrigging.com/18-dyneema-break-test-final-bury-splice-vs-brummel-splice/?v=7516fd43adaa I think the author believes that while a bury splice has a higher brea
  16. So, after 6 vertical years, my mast is now down gracefully, and sitting on the pier for the winter. In general, it looks good. My shrouds and forestay terminate to a large shackle, and their eyes are tied around bronze thimbles. This has resulted in very little wear to the shackle. The bronze eyes are about worn out though. One is badly cracked as well. Can I re-tie the eye (Dyneema Dux) of the shrouds directly to the shackle without fear of abrasion? How do you guys handle this on your rotating rigs?
  17. Ironically, the cavitation plate could CAUSE cavitation it the tip of the prop is too close! I agree it should be properly known as an anti-ventilation plate.
  18. So Yeah - The Chesapeake offers some nice cruising grounds. it is about 300km long, and as little as 12km wide in some spots. Average depth is less than a meter, but there is a LOT of marshland. So there is plenty of good water. Our average daily tidal delta is about .5 meters, and hurricanes are rare - a bad one raises the water level by a meter. Because of this, having a permanent pier on the shoreline is viable in many areas. As always, I'd encourage any of you folks who find yourself in the eastern US to look me up! I owe so many of you for helping me get Terrapin tuned u
  19. Howdy Gents! The wife and I took a nice cruise last weekend with another boat. It was the first distance run I've done since doing all the work to Terrapin, and I found it very satisfying! Nothing broke, and the boat handled nicely. I reinforced the notion that I will never be able to point as high as my buddy's F-28R. That said, I was delighted to learn that even with two reefs in my main to his one, he had a tough time trying to keep up on every other point of sail. I'm pretty sure I am over canvassed, which is OK as it gives me nice cruising options. These days, I take
  20. They sail nicely. I think it rates a bit faster than my friend's F-28R, but last year we beat the one we sailed against on corrected time.
  21. paxfish


    Just an update, Guys. With your good advice, my repairs to the dagger and the dagger trunk opening have been water tight and rock solid this season! Thanks for the help!
  22. Madyottie - Please keep us posted on the process. ESPECIALLY if "Tim" takes a pic or two during construction....
  23. paxfish


    Hi Greg, I have the drawings for the profile on my Tennant Wildfire (next gen GBE) if you want them. I don't think that profile is anything special. I have blown up two rudders and a casing in 12 months! At the advice of many here, when I rebuilt the parts, I wrapped in a LOT more layers of heavy uni in all the directions where I think the forces were concentrated. This seems to have resolved the failures, and have run cleanly for 20 daysails (albeit mostly in light air....) I do believe the general design works well at low to medium speed, but becomes unstable over 17 knots of
  24. Barring any structural issues, that looks like a lot of boat for the money! So - you have to go on deck and down a hatch to use the head? The wife would demand a different config!
  25. Much better now. Three rows of stiching all around and doubled up the lacing points on the engine pod. It worked great all weekend with up to eight people, so hopefully I'm good for the rest of the season....
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