Guest Posted March 7, 2012 Share Posted March 7, 2012 Help, I think i might agree with KM, anyone have the number of a good therapist? Link to post Share on other sites
wheels 543 Posted March 7, 2012 Share Posted March 7, 2012 Dr Crafty. But KM needs Crafty also. It seems he has posted astray. Doesn't that need to be in the Port workers thread. Dr Crafty is going to end up being over worked I fear. Pace yourself Dr Crafty, because who are we going to call on if you end up flipped out like me. Blue Soveriegn maybe?? Link to post Share on other sites
tomharry 0 Posted December 7, 2013 Share Posted December 7, 2013 help?my teak is going,plywood under deck seems fine,do i have to remove teak or can it be hit with a belt sander and sealed followed by 9mm ply glassed,epoxy and screwed over existing? Link to post Share on other sites
Battgirl 23 Posted December 7, 2013 Author Share Posted December 7, 2013 Hi tomharry FnG who is an Auckland based boat builder and member of this site can advise you as he did for me last year. Yes you have 2 options: 1. Get rid of the teak, re ply then epoxy. I wouldn't normally but suggest in this case that you avoid screwing as much as possible. Our pack leader Crew Ogre can advise on a quick way to remove a teak deck. The cost of this option will be more material than time. 2. Sand back the teak then epoxy over the top. FnG gave me the confidence to use this option as the teak deck was basically sound. You will need to remove all the caulking and any screws holding the teak down that show their heads during sanding. You may also have to sand back at the cabin deck join then redo the fillet curve after doing the deck. I can assure you there are several pain in the a... jobs involved in this option but its well worth it. The cost of this option will be more time than material. Really good advice from FnG was to hire rather than buy the right sanding tools for the job and to think outside the square to minimise your haul out and handstand charges Link to post Share on other sites
tomharry 0 Posted December 7, 2013 Share Posted December 7, 2013 thank you for the options,as the teak on the side deck stops about 50mm from deck/cabin join easy to cove in.option 2 could be the best option in my case as it will need to be done in the water,i was thinking 9mm ply over the top would be used.omly the portside at this stage then after xmas cruise do stb side. will get in touch with fnb Link to post Share on other sites
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