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Vivaldi

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Posts posted by Vivaldi

  1. 1 hour ago, CarpeDiem said:

    This is the same as the Jefa DD1.  I have one I am in the process of installing.  It's not zero resistance with the clutch disengaged. You're still turning planetary gears which are in a sea of grease but you're not also turning the motor.

    I’d be keen to have a look at the installation and have a chat about that. Whereabouts are you based? And are you wheel or tiller steer?

    cheers

     

  2. does anyone have one of these installed in their boat?

    I’ve currently got a B&G hydraulic ram which makes the helm feel like you’re steering an old wooden scow. Without the ram on its fingertip light which is nice. The DD15 supposedly offers no resistance when it’s in standby mode which would be nice so wanting to know if anyone has experience with them. 
     

    IMG_6167.png

  3. On 25/01/2017 at 8:56 AM, Island Time said:

    There isn't one. You have to anchor well out in the harbour, near the rocks and moored boats, and dingy in. If short stay and high tide, go up the creek - in the dingy - channel marked with bouys. Otherwise go to the wharf. It's shallow, and mostly dries. It is worth it though :-)

    How many hours either side of high tide is the creek navigable?

  4. 2 hours ago, Vivaldi said:

    If it’s the same as the SD20 then it could be one of two options. If it’s had a split anode kit fitted then it’s just two allen key type screws holding the anode(S) in place. It it doesn’t have the split anode kit then you need to take the prop off, then undo the two allen screws, and then slide the ring off. 

    Yeah if it’s the split type it’s about a five minute job. 

  5. If it’s the same as the SD20 then it could be one of two options. If it’s had a split anode kit fitted then it’s just two allen key type screws holding the anode(S) in place. It it doesn’t have the split anode kit then you need to take the prop off, then undo the two allen screws, and then slide the ring off. 

  6. 20 hours ago, Priscilla II said:

    Not exactly the sharpest pencil in the case was she.

    Well she did take a photo of our boat sitting on the cradle on its keel, and said “is this a yacht?” So…..

     

    ‘’but I could see why they hired her 😁

    • Haha 2
  7. What was frustrating was that after scraping the little buggers off there was a slightly translucent layer left behind if you didn’t scrape hard enough. When you went over them with the antifoul the solvents in the paint would release them and they’d stick to your roller and make nice little circular marks on the hull. All good fun!

  8. I’ve been using Altex #5 for quite some time and usually get two seasons out of it. This heat when I hauled out I noticed a lot more barnacles and frustrations on the hull than usual. While I was anti fouling I had a visit from the Altex rep. She said that they have a new brew coming out that contains more copper and other stuff. She reckoned that it will probably hit the shelves around march 26 but that is was dependant on getting the required approvals. 
    she wasn’t sure if it could be applied over the top of #5m but she thought that it could. 

  9. On 1/08/2025 at 5:32 PM, OkeBay said:

    Sea Zone60 has been around for several years now. It does perform marginally better than the cheaper antifouls but still doesnt deal with the Bay of Islands barnies (My experience)

    I was thinking of using it as it can be used over Altex number 5, but they recommend 3 coats with minimum 9 hours recoat in time which makes for a bit of a longer stay on the hard stand. Might stick with number 5 again this year and see what comes up in the future. 

  10. On 4/02/2025 at 4:43 PM, Psyche said:

    I installed a $15 Ali express 2 channel RF remote for the windlass as a back up because the foot switches have failed twice. 
    IMG_7609.thumb.jpeg.2be103ce964e23694b11e3e606bfcb86.jpeg

    Is it tricky to wire in? - does the sender have to be wired to the winch itself or can it be attached to a switch?

     

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