erice

sort of finished the extra shelving now so carrying on with painting and changing the lights over to LED meanwhile diamond diesels in the uk have sent me the BOL for the ordered engine with the vessel name and an AIS tracker can watch it steaming towards nz currently heading to beruit http://www.marinetraffic.com/en/ais/hom ... :235071275 takes a looong time to track ship after main page then zoom out

latin mechanics never as good as anglo saxon still if you can poach each others parts inventory and combine orders everyone should win

small places reputation is everything hope it all works out any tie-up possible with the new cal agents?

at least in the smallest marine diesels it seems nanni and beta use the kubota tractor base engine and vetus, sole, westerbeke + craftsman(ex-vetus employees) use the mitsubishi industrial base engine not many craftsman distributors around either but the engines and site look very professional and seem cheaper than vetus http://www.craftsmanmarine.com/

now waiting for a new craftsman cm2.16 engine to come from diamond diesels in the uk based on the same mitsubishi L2E engine as the vetus M2.06 in there now same base engine in many new marine engines; sole mini17 + westebeke 12C + 12D hopefully it will drop right in to the current controls + piping installation and leave me with lots of import spares like, head, injector pump + injectors, starter, alternator, water pump, raw water pump, fuel lift pump, filters, impellers, anodes etc. while waiting have cleaned up the engine bay and have been able to install access and shelves

high temp epoxy should be no problem http://www.jbweld.com/product/j-b-highheat/ metal surfaces on a correctly working water cooling system probably don't get much over 80C

have on the boat painting it and at home trying to fix the external corrosion on the exhaust elbow seating area to deal with the missing conrod bearing, have been pricing 3 options - cheapest self repair.........head gasket, sump gasket, 1 set conrod bearings + carefully lap? the marked surfaces......$600 just for parts - import from uk, short block mitsubishi L2E industrial engine, $3000? (vetus; gearbox, head, cooling system, starter, alternator, raw water pump, fuel lift pump + fuel filter assembly to be added on - a complete new marine engine this morning had f

life is short for the rich but very long for the poor

patient/client of a bike riding therapist friend asked him who HIS therapist was he said "i don't need a therapist i've got a bike and can go for long rides when i need to" much the same for sailing/boating Quoting Seneca, Mr Harris stresses the need to combine solitude and the crowd, “and to have recourse to them alternately”. Just as humans are able to deny themselves an excess of the fats and sugars that their bodies are trained to crave, so too must they remain cautious about technology: “Every technology will alienate you from some part of your life. That is its job. Y

thanks for pm Dambo, and the link above i hadn't fully looked through that page on the 60's havsfidra 20' the 70's storfidra 25' was originally called the havsfidra II + is basically a stretched version there's a cutaway drawing at the bottom of that page

the seller did hint i should consider and outboard... but the stern is so high got the wife to call japan, but they are on their religious obon holiday at the moment, so will have to wait a few days before i can price engines and parts from there

thanks all ideas welcome have been building wooden skids, removed dodger etc for winching up under the boom and then swinging over to the floating pontoon

if the crank is beyond repair i guess the engine would be better broken down to parts and sold this ex-saildrive 3cyl yanmar is cheap, how hard would it be to mate to the existing transmission? or would it need a bigger transmission anyway? http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/boats-m ... 627493.htm then there's this air cooled 20hp http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/boats-m ... 657045.htm right up to a new beta http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/boats-m ... 431967.htm might see what the industrial mitsubishi L2E base engine would cost in japan

last week when the head came off took this phone video was puzzled by the 'clunk' at 6sec

the good rear cylinder i haven't touched, don't want to a few days ago when the head came off i did notice some slop in the movement of the fwd piston + a little clank when turning the engine over by hand. that would have been due to the lack of the crank shell bearings the firing, working rear cyl. bottom end looks and feels tight. so i'm not touching it how did the shell bearings leave the conrod? taking the sump off took some time, the sealant and paint looked to have been factory... had a friend who lived in the mountains and brought his auto terrano to me complained

big surprise! blocked up the engine, drained the newish looking oil + filter, dropped the sump, removed the big-end bearing cap nuts + cap NO BEARING SHELLS............ nothing, nada, zip....the conrod was running directly on the crank....... pushed the piston up through the bore + and the rings aren't broken, look fine presumably the lack of fwd piston, conrod crank bearings screwed up the timing + compression enough that the fwd cyl couldn't ignite the fuel?

only a 2cyl so even less engine fitted 2006 in northern hemisphere boat only has a 40ltr built-in tank + a 20ltr plastic one so it's unlikely that it motored across the atlantic + pacific and boat basically been on sitting mooring for last 4 years

today's guess as to why the rings broke is a soft? seize - due to overheat - maybe the 50% blocked - never cleaned heat exchanger - or due to lack of coolant - due to alloy corrosion at the back of the heat exchanger - due to insufficient coolant changes when drained the 'coolant' was like rusty water with no green or red coloration left, did feel a little 'soapy' so am guessing it was either very, very old, (2006? when the engine was put in?) or the leak was simply continually topped up, (diluting the glycol) by the previous nz owners instead of fixing the leak until they forgot to

damn! seem to have found why the front cyl wasn't firing head off shows scored cyl wall, so probably broken ring(s) hoping to lift engine on blocks, remove sump + bearing cap, push piston out top to change rings can the bore be honed smooth in the boat?

got the 2 anchors and chains around to east tamaki galvanisers price to hot-dip is $3.20+ gst/kg at $3.68/kg it would cost $18.40 for the 5kg anchor $55.20 for the 15kg $60? for the 11m chain $120? for the 20m chain about $250 all up as the galv. guy said, under half the cost of replacing with new but for now the engine needs that cash, so anchors and chain just got a quick zinc-it spray engine now mostly disconnected ready to be slid out of the bay

took the vetus - mitsubishi - denso injectors and pump into "diesel services" penrose grahme there took everything apart, fitted about $150 of parts, charged about $150 in labour and gave them back he pointed out that injector shims i thought were missing were actually stuck up in the injector bodies, where they often hide to make up for the missing injector pump base shim i cut couple from the side an alloy drink can can wall was only about 0.2mm so needed 2 to lift the pump to basic start setting back on the boat everything bolted + torqued back up the engine fired u

^ good one "D-day to today"

seagull livingstone jonathan

now have the injector pump + injectors out and in the hands of a denso agent cranking with my fat thumb stuffed in the empty injector hole seems to show compression, but my thumb hasn't been calibrated by years of experience so what do i know... having no engine seemed like a good time to deal with the rusted links in the 9mm anchor chain even rusted they laughed at my hacksaw so dropped the whole lot into the dinghy and brought it home along with the main 15kg bruce anchor and the 5kg spare, both also showing a little rust where the years have ripped of the galv at the carport

hmmm................ these sage words from the mitsi/vetus service manual, plus a few knowledgeable opinions suggest i should be checking engine compression before going much further down the injection rabbit hole ($3000 for vetus injector pump) Problems caused by the faulty injection pump, faulty injection nozzles and improper cylinder compression, give similar symptoms When judging the cause of trouble from examination, be careful to make conclusion because it can be very complicated. so before i head off to repco and put down $290 for a diesel compression tester