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Keylime

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  1. Thanks - I’ll keep away from acetone. Regarding the primer, for the Quilosa ms35 I don’t think it needs a primer, but I was going to etch the acrylic with a kitchen scourer. Is the primer needed for the Butyl tape?
  2. I would be removing potentially fragments of what I guess is rubber (butyl?) from the acrylic, and preparing the surface for adhesion to butyl tape, and Quilosa MS35. I was anticipating using acetone to clean up rubber fragments. Better to use turps? (Isn't turps a thinner? What thinner do you not recommend?)
  3. I wondered if you had recommendations on the type of Butyl tap to use? good tip about the angled nozzles https://www.glasscorp.co.nz/results.html?q=butyl+tape
  4. Nice job! Did you use a glazing tape also? How did you prepare the surfaces?
  5. I found this video that I think explains your method (can watch at double speed)- but with VHB tape. I've seen that butyl tape is recommended over VHB tape - though in this video the VHB tape that failed was being used without a sealant.
  6. found these in other forums: Sikaflex MS: https://nzl.sika.com/en/46072/sealants-fillers/exterior-joints/walls-and-facades/sikaflex-ms.html Fixtech FS200: https://www.seamac.co.nz/new-products/fixtech-fs200-310ml-cartridge-black Dow Corning 795: https://www.dow.com/en-us/pdp.dowsil-795-silicone-building-sealant.01595717z.html QUILOSA MS35: https://www.glueguru.co.nz/shop/BRANDS/QUILOSA/QUILOSA+MS35+Adhesive+280ml+Cartridges.html Any preference? Maybe I won't need the bolts?
  7. My windows leak, and my boat fills up. The windows were added by a previous owner, they're adhered with some kind of rubber, but it's come loose in several places. I plan to drill holes through the panes and fiberglass, remove the panes, clean the surfaces, apply a sealant, replace the panes and screw bolts through the pane and the fiberglass. Does anyone have feedback on this approach? Could you recommend a sealant? Sikaflex 291 seems to be an option - though it doesn't seem to be recommended for plexiglass ("Sikaflex®-291 must not be used to seal plastics that are prone to stress cracking (e
  8. Yup have decided to get suzuki
  9. Thanks for the tip. I’m in the shop looking at the 6HP Yamaha 4 Stoke 2014- $1600. It’s in great condition, but up against a brand new Suzuki I’m not sure which to go for.
  10. Thanks for your comments. Any advice on the motor size?
  11. Thanks for the comments. Great to see the divergent opinions on whether to replace! I think I'd like to upgrade, eventually to do a Cook Straight crossing without freaking out. I’m looking at 2 outboards now - 2 stroke Mercury 1995 8HP Short Shaft $500, or 4 stroke Yamaha, long shaft, 6HP, 2015, $1600. Any votes for either of these?
  12. Excellent advice all around. I'm now restoring them, and yup, they're pretty simple, and full of dirt. I can see the the palls are quite worn. Does anyone know the brand of winch, or any palls that may be available that would fit?
  13. Hi, I need to replace the outboard for a more reliable one on my 20" trailer sailor. This is a 1974 6HP Johnson short shaft. Would I be advised to go to a long shaft? I'm in Wellington where it is quite windy - what size outboard should I have?
  14. I have a Tasman 20 with the original winches and I'd like to replace them. Does anyone have suggestions of what to use? Self-tailing seem to be pretty expensive (possibly more than the boat), so looking at more the 200 each kinda range. Second-hand would be considered too. Also, what type of cleat should I pair with this? Planning on attaching at location of arrow. I'm quite new to sailing so I appreciate the advice.
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