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About Dusty

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  1. Another option is to use the rubber self amalgamating tape for minor repairs, better than ordinary insulation tape. Best not to use heat shrink as some of it attenuates rf energy like crazy.
  2. Good News so that being less than 500 tonnes, we do knot have to give way to her if she is underway and in the main shipping channel. Different as soon as she has a line onboard a ship I guess.: Don't confuse displacement tonnes with gross tonnage which the collision rules are based on, in this case gross is probably still under 500 tonnes. On ships there can be thousands of tonnes difference. gross tonnage has nothing to do with weight or displacement of the vessel, to simplify an explanation it is purely a volumetric measure of the inside volume of the hull. My advice is don't get
  3. [quote name="Waipapa is from a different designer - http://www.agmcilwain.com/Design%20Gallery.htm Mcilwains were consulting engineers to Canadian Naval Architect Robert Allan for both Waipapa and Wakakume as well as Lyttleton's Blackadder. The new Hauraki is a Damen in house design.
  4. This one is different to the concept of the Waipapa class in that it has a large skeg probably designed more for escort work than the Robert Allan designs such as Waipapa which have no skeg. This makes the W class boats more nimble and also means that the W class will go sideways quicker. I don't think you will ever see the seventy tonners doing donuts like the W boats do. Differences in forward and reverse pull are purely caused by interaction of the hull ie astern the props are working in clean solid water. The original specs have changed several times over the course of the planning of
  5. V16 Cats of 2,900 hp per side bollard pull of 68 tonnes ahead and 71 tonnes astern. Two four bladed 2.4metre azimuthing shrouded props or ASD's as they are called. Free running maximum speed of 12.4knots, not bad for a 23 metre waterline. It would equate to a sh*t load of elephant sh*t!
  6. Just wondering what gains you expect in using foam over something like cedar. weight reduction would be small and being in the middle of the boat have a negligible effect on the boats performance. On a high performance skiff it may be an advantage but on a boat like a sunburst it's probably better to concentrate on removing the same amount of weight out of the ends of the boat rather than the middle
  7. Best to make a proper job of it and machine them out, Anything you do in situ is going to be short lived. Half a mm is not enough to play with for synthetic bushes.
  8. The only down side to foam used in centerboards is that they will need some kind of hold down device as the buoyancy will probably be greater. We did a new foam cored rudder for a Farr 11.6 and had a hell of a job installing it with the boat in the water. Despite the weight of the stock and tangs the rudder still had so much buoyancy it was very hard to sink and keep vertical. We compromised by shortening up the mooring flooding the anchor well and putting a plastic 44 gal drum on the foredeck which was also was filled with water. We also shifted a lot of gear around in the boat. This lifte
  9. The police would be an obvious choice but one would have to watch that it doesn't become a money grabbing exercise like the use of speed camera's and the 4kph tolerance on the roads during holiday periods. I understand that police will soon given the authority to conduct random breath testing on the water so maybe that is a step in the right direction providing the limits are kept reasonable. Australian harbours are policed quite vigorously by the Water police so perhaps that is an indication of where we should be heading.
  10. As a person who does his boating in at least four different regional and city council controlled areas and I am sure there are many other boaties in the same situation, it would make a great deal more sense to have rules such as this one administered on a national level, so take the responsibility for these regulations away from regional level to an authority with complete control over the entire country. Maritime NZ would be the obvious choice but even they have proven to be too slow at responding to situations. My point is that a family from Hamilton go to the Bay of islands and they proba
  11. Sika flex and loads of it even on the rivets.
  12. I have seen a number of cars painted with Reaction Lacquer and all suffered the same problems chipping and flaking paint Yes there was very little difference in performance but the biggest difference was the price and the Lusteroid/Dulux paints appeared to be able to take a lot more flexing of the material they were attached to than what the Epiglass products would. As far as temperatures go Air NZ used Caprithane in the days of flying the DC10's and early 747's and these regularly suffered temps of -65C to +45C. Dulux Dulon was probably the most popular automotive paint used in the 1970's
  13. I switched to using automotive paints years ago and popular choices were the Lusteroid two pots Caprithane and Superthane, My favourite was always Dulux Dulon. An Epiglass rep that used to come into my place of work told me that I was making a big mistake using automotive paints as they were too brittle. (Obviously he had a vested interest in giving me that advice.) I used to do some fiberglass repairs at my brother inlaw's panel shop and got to see a lot of damaged cars coming through. In most cases you would see a panel pushed in but unless there had been impact damage in the immediate are
  14. Dusty

    Venturi vacuum pumps?

    I am currently using a small portable 4.2cu ft two stage pump which has proven to be more than enough to laminate new deck and side tank panels for a Finn I am restoring. I was able to achieve 29.5 inches hg but we spent a lot of time making sure there was no leaks in the bag. we used 170gram carbon each side of 5 mm 100kg density Corecell M foam. Super lightweight panels that needed bugger all prep for painting. We had a valve in the line so shut off the line and pump and watched the vacuum gauge, after three hours the vacuum hadn't changed but by then the 38 degree temperature had the resin
  15. Haven't had any experience with the Kiwi seal but I replaced the gland on my own boat with a John Crane shaft seal replaced the stern tube with fiberglass and turned the bearing spigot down to the inner diameter of the seal. All went well and no more leaking gland even when trying hard to make it leak. Even managed to pick up 100 rpm on the engine.
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