Island Time
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Posts posted by Island Time
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TX valves are not simple (except mechanically!), as they adjust superheat. Superheat is a concept many struggle with. Here is a good article on the subject https://www.achrnews.com/articles/96890-understanding-superheat
So, in this case, what I was talking about is that the TX valve also regulates how much refrigerant can pass, and effectively slow down or speed up the flow rate in the system. The frosting on the return line is where the liquid refrigerant is getting to before reverting to gas.
If the flow rate is too fast, liquid can get back to the compressor - cant compress liquid = compressor failure.
What you want is for the liquid refrigerant to loose most of it's cold energy in the eutectic tanks - which it can't do if it travels thru too quickly. So, you can slow the flow rate by closing (clockwise) the TX valve a bit (1/4 turn at a time) and this will move the the frosting back up the line some...
This is why refrigeration is a dark art to many!
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Think about this. The LiFePo4 battery does not want (or like) to be kept fully charged. The Lead Acid MUST be kept fully charged for decent life. Standby voltage for a LiFePo4 batt is around 13.4v, which conveniently is pretty close to the float voltage of an AGM. So a VSR is OK, but normally I put a switch in their circuit so they can be manually disconnected when needed.
Most DC-DC chargers have an input and output, so no, not bi-directional.
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On 27/10/2022 at 9:15 AM, waikiore said:
I have a similar set up with Blue Seas VSR controlling the alternator charge, and a Victron MPPT reg doing the solar , have been pleasantly surprised that the VSR also links under strong sunlight solar charge.
Vsr's dont care where the voltage comes from, if it's high enough they will engage. They are available in single and dual sense (single watches one batt voltage for switching, dual watches both/either.)
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No problem, it'll work fine. Personally though, I'd go for a Victron controller over EPEver. More reliable, better interface, more programmable, and better output.
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Here is Legasea's link to a submission you can make. Only unitl Friday Night 8pm... https://legasea.co.nz/action/campaigns/hauraki-gulf-marine-park-marine-protection-proposals-submission-form/
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1 hour ago, funlovincriminal said:
It has R154
Did you mean R152a? That's a replacement for R134a, but Ive never heard of R154 (not that that means much!) If it's right, is it new?
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If it's a sticking TX valve, sometimes a sharp tap with a hammer will move it if it's stuck (or dirty). This is not 100%, and if it starts working only shows it is the valve, it's not fixed and would almost certainly do it again. To change the valve the unit needs the gas removed (or stored in the accumulator if fitted) unfortunately, so it's a job for a fridge tech.
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A couple of things could cause this. Are you sure the sight glass was empty? Not just full of liquid? A stuck txv valve could be it, so could ice.
Does the centre of the sight glass indicate its wet? It changes Color to do that, but the actual Color depends on the unit. It’s normally indicated what Color is what on the outer ring of the sight glass. If it’s wet, change the filter/drier.
When it’s on, make certain the clutch engages, and the centre of the compressor is actually turning.
What you should see in the sight glass is 1stly nothing, then after a few seconds some liquid and bubbles. Liquid level should completely fill the sight glass, and bubbles should disappear after a few mins (not more than 10), leaving the sight glass full of clear liquid. Can look empty at this point, or maybe has a trapped bubble in it. That’s ok. Check again when fully cold but still running - full of liquid with no bubbles indicates a full gas charge. Bubbles passing thru at any stage after the first few mins indicates low gas.
Some installs are controlled with pressure regulation, but that will switch the compressor off and on as required, so you don’t have to remember.
The refrigerant gases have got really pricey over the last few years, with a bottle of r134a now being over $2k. Servicing engine driven units can be very time consuming and therefore expensive, esp if there is a really slow leak (can be virtually impossible to find!) or you need to change to a current refrigerant.
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The bearings can be bought often at a fishing reel repair place. If you can get the cups off, use CRC marine and then put a battery drill on the cup shaft, spin for a min each direction with the drill. The crap often drips out while doing that. Then turn slowly with your fingers, any resistance or roughness = new bearings....
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Probably bearings. Don't know about stowe, but most can be replaced. Even cleaning can fix some, they get full of crap over time...but you'll have to take it down.
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Nah, it was great fun (I did 2010)! Have a go.... It is a commitment though!
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Different dealers have a different perspective I guess. I was told (after my own MDI failed at 200hrs) by the local dealer that I could NOT mount the mdi anywhere else, or it would void warranty. I do agree CD, that there is no technical reason why it should void the warranty, and likely would not, if push came to shove...
I'd rather not get into a legal battle. Volvo have replaced my own MDI 2x now, less than 500 hrs old. I've also been involved in several customers needing replacements.
Expansion tank. Provided the expansion tank is full enough for the exit to remain immersed, there is no way for the expansion tank to allow air into the closed cooling system, even if the whole tank is below the top of the heat exchanger. It would be dumb though, as it would make it hard to bleed any air out when filling. I guess if it was rough enough (when the motor is first switched off and cooling (and therefore drawing from the expansion tank)) for the exit to be exposed to Air, it could draw that in instead of water/coolant, but the coolant level would have to be pretty low...
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8 minutes ago, Olaf said:
@Cameron, so if you self-relocate the coolant tank or the MDI box - does it affect Volvo's 5-year warranty?
Yes.
Also, the coolant tank is not and has not been an issue on any of the boat fitted with a D series that I've worked on. MDI boxes are another story. Here is an iteresting link about them https://nordkyndesign.com/engine-reliability-a-look-at-the-volvo-penta-mdi-black-box/
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Quite right CD. I presumed he meant LiFePo4, which I shouldn’t have. IMO LiPo batteries have no place on a boat, and I wouldn’t have one.
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No problem. Welcome aboard!
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20 hours ago, CarpeDiem said:
LiPo doesn't really have a place on a boat as a fixed installation unless you've got some kind of bespoke electrical requirement like a 60v bow thruster?
Lots of boats have LiPo batteries on them these days, but these are in the form of auxiliary batteries for an electric tender outboard. So not part of the boats electrical system.
There's no legislation in NZ that prohibits you installing your own LiPo or any other chemistry so long as you stay under 60v DC peak power. However the legislation still requires that it is designed and installed by a competent person.
As soon as your solution (or any part of it) goes over 60v DC it requires an certified electrician.
So you can diy your battery upgrade if you know what you are doing and realistically that would mean following and understanding the regs IT mentioned.
Hmm, did I not read this right? LiFePo4 makes an excellent house battery system if properly set up. Way lighter, way faster charge, no sulphation, does not need to be kept full, much more stable voltage, and much longer life.
short term, if not keeping a boat, AGM. Long term, lead is dead! (Except for cranking/winch/thruster batts!
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5 hours ago, alibaba said:
If you want to assist in eradication, use 'em for bait. I take a bucket of them off my marina berth, then just squeeze them out of the casing , stick on hook. Fish like them!
I’m no expert, but my understanding is that they spawn if scraped - in the water.
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Yes. But NZ regs are not up to date with lithium batts yet. They likely will conform to the ABYC and European standards. Currently you must have an audible and visual alarm at the normal operation location of the vessel that warns the operator of a faulty and impending disconnect (bms turning the batt off for any reason).
You also need to consider that standard batt fuses don't work, you need to upgrade to a fuse with AIC ratings of 20000 amps. That really means class T fuses.
Alternators need to have temp sensing, so mostly that means external regulators like balmar or wakespeed. Not to do this will result in alternator failure. Alt needs a load dump system.
All charge sources (shorepower, wind, solar, genset etc) need to be able to be properly programed for lithium, or replaced.
Because of all this, there is no such thing as a "drop in Lithium" battery!
For a basic understanding, I'd strongly recommend anyone thinking of this read the "drop in lithium, be an educated consumer" document on the marine how to website. IMO Rod Collins is one of THE authorities on this.
I'm out in the boat, but I can post the NZ reg battery requirements on Sunday or Monday when I'm back home.
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On 22/08/2022 at 4:08 PM, bigal.nz said:
Is there much variance in the brand of antenna? I have South Pacific just down the road.
South Pacific are fine...
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Depends on the keel design. Most lagoon legs sit under the gunnels and have a for and aft guy to stabilize them. like this;
![Side%20colour%20cropped[1].jpg](https://crew.org.nz/forum/uploads/monthly_2022_10/1705289393_Side20colour20cropped1.thumb.jpg.937617fec9029df0e01c512d9499eecc.jpg)
![Profile%20colour%20cropped[1].jpg](https://crew.org.nz/forum/uploads/monthly_2022_10/88652045_Profile20colour20cropped1.thumb.jpg.09da3edde60b3fadc18adb0726370aca.jpg)
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Hello Jack. There is no reason to post in multiple threads. Most users use the "unread content" button and will see your posts regardless of which forum or thread they are in.
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Rubber nozzle on steel compressor, or a needle. Low pressure high volume pump if you don't have a compressor.
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22 hours ago, harrytom said:
Well well IT you were conned listening to Legasea on Thursday night.When on Wednesday .Minister for Oceans and Fisheries said the bill will not procced.
The Government’s decision to drop controversial changes to fisheries legislation is welcome news to fishing and environmental groups concerned about threats to fish sustainability.
Oceans and Fisheries Minister David Parker has announced he will progress the part of the Fisheries Amendment Bill that enables monitoring cameras aboard commercial fishing vessels from 1 November.
Breaking:
Some great news for people who care about oceans and fish and improving fisheries management. In a surprise and welcome move, Oceans and Fisberies Minister David Parker and Government have decided not to proceed with pre-set decision rules in the Fisheries Amendment Bill.
Who do you think was lobbying the Minister about this?
The Minister removed the section about consultation as he believed it was not in the public interest.
The remainder of the bill is before the house for third reading next week, then it will become law.
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1 hour ago, CarpeDiem said:
Been a work in progress since 2017. Strategy was published in June 2021. A Google search will bring up umpteen hits in newspapers online publications etc... Eg:
https://gulfjournal.org.nz/2021/06/more-marine-protection-on-the-horizon/
https://www.localmatters.co.nz/mahurangi-news/gulf-plan-to-boost-marine-protection/
There was a thread somewhere on Crew.
Submissions close 28th October 2022 for anyone who wants to contribute to the process:
Well, CD, that's one paying attention
![Side%20colour%20cropped[1].jpg](https://crew.org.nz/forum/uploads/monthly_2022_10/252894672_Side20colour20cropped1.jpg.a19f5fb20b69b8dd490cf1175c7ca7b2.jpg)
![Profile%20colour%20cropped[1].jpg](https://crew.org.nz/forum/uploads/monthly_2022_10/1428599133_Profile20colour20cropped1.jpg.972198e268ef18c7c590ca1a568d8eb1.jpg)
Will alternator parallel charging interfere with dual MPPT regulator?
in TechTalk
Posted
Just keep this in mind. Some installs Ive seen, the alternator charges the start batt, DC-DC charges the LiFePo4. Technically OK, BUT you loose the main (IMO) advantage of LiFePo4 in that most DC-DC chargers dont have anywhere near the output of a decent alternator, so you bank charges much more slowly. Better, (also IMO) is to use a proper good alternator, with ext reg and temp sensing - for the ALT! to charge the LiFePo4 and then DC-DC to charge the Start and Accessory (Thrusters, winches etc) batts.
This is a very good doc on LiFePo4 - incl some basic setup diagrams https://marinehowto.com/drop-in-lifepo4-be-an-educated-consumer/