Paint rollers

[Guest]

OK so what's the deal with those anyone know them deeply?

 

Needed a couple and was faced with a multitude of options and prices. In the last 2 days I found price isn't a indicator of quality as the 3 for $7 haven't left all the fur on the walls the one for $17.95 supposed quality one did. Also some say short wool for this but others say long polyester for the same thing.

 

Anyone got any rough guides on what sort to use in what applications and/or what to look for when talking quality or real effectiveness in use?

 

Now back to sanding off the sheep I have on the ceiling, Thanks PAL

[tuffyluffy 76]

What are you talking about?

Water based interior house paint or two pot epoxy on the boat? There's a difference as I'm sure you know

[Black Panther 1,592]

Go for cheap and hope for the best?

[rigger 47]

Now back to sanding off the sheep I have on the ceiling, Thanks PAL

 

Give PAL a call tomorrow. They were great to deal with last time I spoke with them.

[Guest]

Opps good point Tuffy.

 

In this case it's house 'acrylic enamel' and std acrylics but I will be starting bits on the boat soon which will be 2 pots.

 

Yes I will Rigger. Tad pissed off to spend the most that was possible to have it shed like a bitch not only the 1st time, which is often expected to a small degree, but after a good wash the 2nd time as well.

[Guest]

If applying water soluble acrylic enamels (kitchen/bathroom/wet areas) then short nap mohair is good(6mm)

 

But if you want to do a great job then go for a HVLP acrylic gun. They are cheap as and easy to use.

 

The finish is great.

They are basically a low pressure/hi volume vacuum cleaner on blow that pumps the paint thru a defined orifice.

 

http://www.almax.co.nz/viewproduct.php?catID=40

 

The pro's use them for trim and small areas all the time.

[Guest]

They are nice looking units X. I think I found what I'm using to do my decks with

 

I suspect I have stumbled into a dodgy batch of roller sleeves. No way can they be correct the way they are falling to bits. I'll have a chat to them today. But the walls look good after 3 top coats, one more than I wanted but there ya go.

[Guest]

Falling apart sounds dodgy. Sue them!

 

Rule of thumb is more $ = more

 

Mohair, Draylon, wools, and micro fibre are best.

 

Still undecided on micro fibre.

 

Summer thinners will help heaps if very warm inside. It slows tack off, gives more flow and "lap in" time.

 

Resene and Dulux both have it and it makes a difference. Some pros use penetrol /flowtrol after market additives but Paint companies will void the warranty if there is a problem.

 

Bit like adding that "Wynns for oil" to perfectly good oil

[Island Time 1,240]

OK X, I've been reading about the HVLP spray units. Some guys are using them for antifouling as well - very little overspray, but slower than and airless. They seem pretty versatile. Are they really capable of spraying antifouling, as well as a general purpose home spraygun? They seem pretty attractive at this stage.....

[wheels 543]

No they are not capable of spraying anti-foul. I have one I bought in from the States and used it only once. Very disappointed with it actually. The problem being that you have to thin any product by an enormous amount. Sometimes as much as 50% for it to spray and as you are not supposed to thin AF, it rules that out. Then there is the fact that solvent is not cheap either and makes painting very expensive.

The plus side is that it sprays paint without the overspray and you don't get the mist in the air that you get with high pressure air spraying. The finish is about the same as HPA spraying providing you thin the product enough, otherwise you get a ruff finish and because it is thinned so much, you have to apply many more coats and allow more time between coats to dry enough to minimise solvant entrapment. For AF, the only way to go ( spraying wise), is to use high pressure airless.

[Guest]

don't buy rollers for water based paints for anything two pot. always buy for oil based

[Guest]

Yes and no. Depends on which type.

 

They can handle AF,s high solids and hi viscosity but many cannot handle the aggressive pigmentation which wear the tip/orifice/cap.

 

Also some plastic parts do not like the solvents.

 

The main problem is they do not have a wide width of spray pattern.

 

For me they are a big NO. Boot topping maybe yes.

Check with each supplier.

 

Airless is still best.

 

I have used a cheap gravity fed plaster gun with 2mm tip and they work too.

 

For the Joe blow type of guy, just hire a airless (that been only used for solvent based/AF's) and have a go.

 

There are really only two controlls. Pressure and tip size. Correct tip is critical as it governs fan width and the amount of paint dispersed.

 

As long as the units is supplied clean all you do is load it up, prime it, and then set the pressure to get correct "spray fan/pattern profile"

 

Tips are coded as such...

 

416 = 4 denote fan width x 2 so 4=8 inch fan width. 16 denotes orifice size thus 16 = 16 thou.

 

This is a good example... http://www.gleempaint.com/understanding ... -tips.html

 

The is also a metric version to.

 

Each product has a specific size tip but most of internationals are .45 to .53ish metric.

 

The tips can be reversed - to clean (if blockage occurs during application) just by turning 180 degrees.

 

There are two filters. The one in the unit should be OK. The one in the handle of the gun (metal mesh) may need to be matched to AF application.

 

Cleaning is easy. Just empty and blow correct solvent thru until clean.

You can hire them for as little as $120 a day

 

The hardest bit is spray technique. But if you nave sprayed through cup guns or pressure pot systems before you should be OK ( less the triggering off technique)