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Adjustable forestay?

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My 830 pulpit has a stainless tube running through the forefoot where it bolts onto the stem. I am told the forestay was to run through this to a tensioning system. 

My question is - is it worth the drama on an 8.3 metre keel boat, and if so how would you rig the system in a way that would be effective and easy to use without introducing clutter to the decks or water down below?

Or should I cut it off and get a basic forestay tang made?

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Basic forestay tang... Keep it simple stupid and bolt on the biggest kite to get the advantage!

If an adjustable rig tension is wanted then look at a built in mast jack under the base of the rig. heaps easier to work with, and moves the weight aft and lower.

It was probably onto a highfield lever previously so they could drop the forestay off and lean the rig back to drop it to trailer etc - The ross 780's, noelex 25's and so on have it

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Mast is deck stepped.

The guy who I got it off had a modified Ross 650 and was going to drag a lot of the tricks over to the 830 which was never finished. It was definitely going to be a tuning option as the boat was destined to stay on a mooring.

Just want to be sure I'm not going to regret grinding this tube off the base of the pulpit!

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Adjustable forestays are a real weapon when you get to know them and use them right. IRC rating penalises them quite hard which is always an obvious sign that they are good for something. We use them on the TP52s all the time, in combination with mast jacks and shims (under the mast) to get it all setup right. 

But then again they can be a real pain in the ass if you are not 100% up to speed with how to use them....

On the SR26 and Y88s we adjust the forestay for every race, have an approx +7/-7 range off base setting so that's 14 turns from light to heavy setting. Makes a HUGE difference and when you have it wrong you really know about it.

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