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Diesel Filters


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Yeah they are not cheap.

If you really want, I can get a trade price for ya shane. I deal with the supplier and get good deals and would just pass it on at my cost to you. But for your situation, I am sure the CAV would be just the bees knees. I can get those too, but that one on Trademe was cheap.

 

Actually, I wonder if I should do a "crew special" if anyone is interested. As long as I am not standing on anyones toes though. If we don't have a resident supplier here, I could make up assemblies. Single or twin filter arrangements and per tank if required, mounted and with all the valves required. I have Bag of valves that I think would suit. If anyone is interested,let me know if it is worth pursueing.

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recently changed the cav-type diesel in-line water filter - seperator

 

never saw any water in the glass bowl , which means nothing was getting past the filter 

 

and the filter material shows no dirt at top

 

but as diesel in a tank sucks in a little atmospheric, water that it holds in suspension, and the filter had been on a year, out it came

 

apparently the white filter material absorbs the suspended water back out of the diesel, so rather than toss the filter straight out i thought i'd try to dry the filter out in the sun and put it back in the boat as an emergency spare if the tank ever got flooded or filled with dirty diesel

 

but was interested in how much water was still held in the filter and how would i know when it was gone?

 

fuel filter.jpg

 

so the filter is now in a clear sealed container, it gets left in the sun until water can be seen condensing on the inside, then the cap is taken off until the condensed water has evaporated, then cap goes back on  

 

in theory, at some stage water will stop condensing out, and after some further sun drying the smelly, oily, but clean, diesel will be the only thing left inside so it can be bagged and packed away for emergencies 

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That amount of water going through a modern common rail diesel would cost a full set of injectors and a high pressure pump. 

 

Scary.

 

All our common rail diesels now have 5 micron filters on them, and we have also added large bowl water traps which are drained automatically. Were not cheap but injectors and pumps are certainly not at all cheap.

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Water injection is for Spark ignition engines only and it is added separately to the fuel. The water is used in a couple of different ways depending on what is wanting be achieved. It can be added at the air intake and results in the Air being cooled and cool air is denser. Thus more air, means more fuel can be burned and more power. But more air and more fuel compressed into a small space can also result in the combustion being to fast and that causes detonation. So the water can also act as a means of slowing down the combustion speed. This is also found in extreme compression ratio engines and the water injection is often done directly into the cylinder instead of the air intake.
Water in Diesel engines is Death. Because Diesel fuel requires the compression pressure and temp to ignite it, a very tiny amount of water will rob the cylinder of critical heat and stop the combustion. But the worst of all is that Water explodes when it reaches the super hot Injector tip and causes damage to the Tip.
 

 

does the additive against diesel bug really work? I keep adding it when refuelling because its there.

Yes, providing there is a Biocide in the additive. Some are not clear on that. Forget additives that are supposed to improve performance. We have the top range Diesel here in NZ and additives do virtually nothing to improve it at all.
Biocides kill the growth of Algae and Bacteria. THEY DO NOT REMOVE IT. The Filter must still be replaced and in fact, may need replacing far more often. That is not a bad thing, it's just that the gunk is coming away and exiting the tank.
DO NOT buy any additive that proclaims that it breaks down water and then allows it to pass right on through the engine. Usually the additive is something as simple as Meths or Methanol or anything that is water soluble. IT only binds to water, it does not turn the water into something else that can be burned. So damage to Injectors can still occur.
The best method of keep fuel clean is to have a collection point at the bottom of the tank so as water runs to that lo point and you can then drain it off, or to have a damn good filter and capture the water at that point.
DO NOT WASTE YOUR MONEY on the stupid De Bug and other magnetic filter versions. I have extensively tested two of these things now and they do absolutely nothing. As I have always said they won't. Magnets will not and can not harm Algae or Bacteria.

I have also seen silly little inline things you put in your Fuel line that are supposed to work by aligning all the Molecules in the fuel so they enter the engine more efficiently and burn more efficiently. Still Snake Oil, they just milking a different Snake is all.

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after using the new strap wrench - thanks chris

 

to back off the oil filter - thanks wheels

 

it got used in another tight area to removed the OEM engine mounted fuel filter on the 16hp craftsman-mitsubishi engine

 

filters.jpg

 

it was replaced with a spare filter from the removed 16hp vetus - mitsubish engine

 

vetus fuel.jpg

 

the vetus filter has a water drain built in, but the craftsman filter does not

 

probably good for small boat diesels that don't have a separate water trap in the line near the tank

 

the diesel poured out of the craftsman filter was again clean and water free but it also got stuck in a jar to see how much water can be coaxed out of the filter material 

 

so far a little is coming out

 

bigger cav filter is now on its 3rd catch + release

 

filters drying.jpg

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