fiberglassing residential deck - waterbased epoxy? wtf?

[Guest]

Wonder how a totally FC house would stack up financially, thermally.....?

[Guest]

As far as I know Ferro is no more waterproof that any other cement based product. Concrete is NOT waterproof. It MUST be sealed (clear sealer, paint, whatever)to achieve compliance with the NZBC. Same with masonry, solid plaster and ALL other products of that type. Foe a waterproof deck you will still need a waterproof membrane over the top.

 

Cement screeds are only used in bathrooms to create fall to the waste. They still require a waterproof membrane under the tiles.

 

If you are doing plans for consent fng what level design license do you have?

[Guest]

Ferro cement is waterproof as it is. Yachts are built with the stuff Babe! Water tanks also. Ferro cement is not concrete!! We are not talking about a cement screed but ferro cement. I used the cement screed as an example only.

There's heaps out there if you google , here's one link regarding ferrocement houses.....http://www.am-cor.com/system/ferrocement/

I have a friend into Carp who makes tanks for breeding with ferrocement. They are cylindrical about 3 metres in diameter by around 1.2 metres tall. The walls are 20 mm thick! They have no applied covering to stop water and they do not leak.

[Guest]

Yeah and the boats are painted!

Who cares if water tanks ooz at bit?

[tuffyluffy 76]

Wonder how a totally FC house would stack up financially, thermally.....?

 

Stucco? The parents 1950's house is an unpainted concrete mixture over chicken mesh, which is nailed to the bare frame. Very good thermally.

[Guest]

The tanks don't "ooze a bit" , not a bit. Ferro cement yachts don't need to be painted. Ferro cement does not pass water through. You really ought to have a bit of a read up on ferro cement before commenting Babe.

[wheels 543]

Many continually make the mistake of thinking the cement in FC is Concrete. It is not.

Firstly, the Cement itself must be Portland Cement which is a Hydraulic cement. The Sand used must be a clean sharp river sand. Not beach sand. A ratio of 1:1 of sand and cement is used. Plaster for House walls etc, can be a ratio of 3 sand to 1 cement. Mortar being the same ratio, but has a lot of Lime added to it.

When the plaster for FC is made, it must be made extremely dry. Only just enoguh water to make it bind and that is it. Once the plaster has started to harden and cure, water can then be applied to ensure continual hardening. That is why you often hear people say that FC Hulls just get harder and harder the older they get. That is not completely true. Yes they continue to harden as they age, but only for a time. That is because water does not easily travel through it and it takes some time for the plaster to fully cure. The cement eventually reaches "maturity" when there is nothing more left to react and cure.

Concrete swimming pools and large ponds are often Concrete Block or Solid concrete construction with a thin plaster of Sand and Cement to waterproof it applied afterwards.

[cam 0]

Thanks for all the great info on this men. The info and knowledge here is excellent. Ferro looks a totally bonafide solution actually. A very attractive one in many ways.

 

Put the plans in for consent this morning and at this stage I have decided to go with resin/glass for now.

 

I am very height constrained due to existing linings, flashings, thresholds under ranchsliders etc, so the extra 20mm is hard to find without lowering deck 20mm, and cant lower the structural fixing 20mm easily.

 

Another building officer confirmed on application it is an external deck from the purposes of waterproofing concerns (ie. they dont care too much what I put on it for waterproofing, as long as it is compliant in other ways, such as non skid), so that sounds like a consistent story so far. fingers crossed.

[Guest]

Good one Cam, appreciate the open mind.

[cam 0]

the benefits of ferro have been disturbing my calm. The priority was to get the inital plans in for consent, as with the change to LBP's coming up, I needed to do this before 1 March, and with a busy week coming up I needed to do this today. All submitted now so cool. and now that is done I can relax and consider any changes at leisure.

 

some very compelling reasons to seriously consider ferro further. that may even justify reorganising the height to suit (not impossible just not that straighforward)

 

I asked my engineer but he is not familiar with ferro at all. But he is only concerned about the structural weight, so if I can tell him the thickness and/ or weight he can ensure the vertical and lateral (seismic) forces are addressed structurally.

 

Anyone know an engineer with experience in ferro who I can contact about a ferro floor screed on ply and the details of the 'layup' (for want of a better word), and attachment details on an exterior deck.

 

Once I get this I plan on doing a trial in the backyard on ply and satisfying myself the technique, flexibility and cosmetics are ok for me. Even if I dont use it in the end, curious to try out the material actually.

[wheels 543]

I should add, I have no clue as to whether FC would work for this situation, or would be allowed even. My comments were just about FC in general.

Another thought would be chopped strand and Polyester Resin. But once again, I have no idea about biulding codes.

And to add, there is a guy on Trademe selling big drums of "Tooling Resin" which sounds to be a thick epoxy resin. Once again no idea, just a big quantity of Epoxy cheap, that may perhaps work.

Or why don't you go back to the made for purpose Waterproof membrane system, buy it and apply it yourself.

[cam 0]

cheers wheels, appreciate that.

 

If I can design the deck to cope with the load of ferro, I will likely plan to do so, so at least I have the option.

 

It appeals over the membranes in some ways for me, as the look of a natural material is attractive compared to lapped joins in synthetic sheeting, or a painted membranes.

 

The wear and tear should be superior to any of them I expect.

 

And the sound deadening of a ferro surface I hope will be superior to the drum-like surface of a membrane on ply.

 

And if it is a fair whack cheaper that appeals to. As does being able to form scuppers and drains so they are integral, and do not have 'edges' or ponding corners.

 

But will wait till I find an engineer who can confirm fixing details, wire reinforcing, additional reinforcing?, expansion joints?, admixtures? for this kind of use before finally deciding.

[Guest]

"USES OF FERROCEMENT

 

Ferrocement is a very adaptable material that can be used to make a wide range of items of various sizes. It is frequently used for the construction of housing and buildings, landscape structures, agriculture facilities, public health facilities and transportation.

 

Prefabricated ferrocement wall panels have been used for low cost housing in Selangor, Malaysia (Abdullah, 1990). Mosque domes constructed with ferrocement are found in Indonesia and Jordan, taking advantage of the ease of creating curves with the material. Unique and beautiful buildings with this technology are found in India, Cuba, Israel and Bangladesh. In Malaysia, there are two companies that construct ferrocement boats ranging from 2 to 6 feet in width for export. Ferrocement is also used for swimming pools and pontoons (UNIMAS 1996).

 

The material is particularly useful for repairing old structures." (http://www.mered.org.uk/Hornbill/Saip.htm)

 

 

Actually, ferrocement could be a lifesaver in New Zealand as its known to be "earthquake resistant". Oh and it is 3:1 sand cement ratio usually employed and sometimes 2:1.