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UV set plastics tanks


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I have never used it personaly. But basicaly, it is Polyester Resin that uses UV and also visible light for that matter as the catylist. Polyester resin is unlike Epoxy, in that it starts hardening right from the day it was made. Just very very slowly. A catylist is used to speed that reaction up to a very short time.the amount of catylist used controlls how fast the hardening reaction happens. In the case of the Photoreactive resins the UV light causes the reaction to take place.

The issue ofcourse is working in a controlled light environment. You do not want the resin to go off till you want it too.

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Ofcourse it is worth asking a Glue specialist, as it is an area that is changing rapidly and there may well be other types available or coming available.

The only other Glues that are Photoreactive that I know of are not really glues as such, but more Cement/fillers and are types used in Teeth and specialised high strength type applications. They are not Epoxies or Polyesters, but more like some form of ceramic based type material and damn expensive.

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I have had a little experience with PR-UV polyresins, and what wheelie said is about spot on. However there are modern ones which will allow you to work outdoors, and they are "set" initially by using uv light sources, and then allowing the sun to do its job over a week or two.

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Vetus Easy Tanks are what you are looking for.

 

Just google ' vetus easy tank price ' and you'll get the info pretty quick, the largest seems to be 39.6 Gal so 150 L and US$852 so around NZ$1050 + freight etc./tank.

 

You might be able to find a better price.

 

Or talk to the Vetus people here which would be Lustys I think.

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I had one put into AC to replace an old leaking 140l water tank. But it was done whilst I was away so I can't comment on the process. Doesn't appear to have tainted the water taste too badly.

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slight hijack, I have water tanks that have the ballast in the bottom set in epoxy that is now 30+ years old and in one tank the epoxy has a small split / crack in it. Is there a simple way to remove the existing epoxy ( disolve perhaps ??) so it can be removed and replaced with more modern materials or perhaps with the material that is the subject of this thread.

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