Guest Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 firstly sorry if this has been covered but I could not find anything in the search results. I have a 4108 and a nortthern lights genset that could do with a repaint. There is not much rust, perhaps a few smaller patches but rather the white paint is peeling off in a few places... Firstly how do you remove the old paint, how much needs to be removed etc? then how do you prepare before priming? I am going to repaint white and use tin foil etc and masking tape etc etc etc... more interested in a good prep guide, planning to do in situ paint.... any good web links? Link to post Share on other sites
Island Time 1,246 Posted January 28, 2014 Share Posted January 28, 2014 I'm sure no paint expert, but I've done this before. Just cleaned the engine with a degreaser, masked, and painted. Worked fine for me..... There are a few paint specialists on here who will no doubt disagree as to the "correct method" Link to post Share on other sites
Grinna 2 Posted January 28, 2014 Share Posted January 28, 2014 It's alright IT, I'm just as wrong as you are mate. I wire brushed our engine, degreased it with brakekleen, masked it up and sprayed engine enamel on it. Seems to have worked fine so far. Link to post Share on other sites
wheels 543 Posted January 28, 2014 Share Posted January 28, 2014 It is what I have done also. Worked OK for me as well. I did prime Rusty area's. Those are the area's where the "Perkins Automatic Corrosion Protection System" is not reaching. Link to post Share on other sites
Atom Ant 0 Posted January 28, 2014 Share Posted January 28, 2014 Yup, degreased it, wire brushed it, sprayed it with engine paint spray can from repco. Easy peasy. Link to post Share on other sites
Kestrahl 6 Posted January 28, 2014 Share Posted January 28, 2014 There is some acid type product you can use on the bare metal before priming or painting but I can't remember what it was called. I watched a helicopter mechanic painting the engine out of his boat once! Link to post Share on other sites
wheels 543 Posted January 28, 2014 Share Posted January 28, 2014 Phosphoric Acid. There are two types. One is the pure clear liquid that you brush on and then wash off. The other is a thicker white liquid that dries to a hard paintable black film. There are other variations of primers with PA in it, such as PA10 and Wattyl etch primer and many others. There is also one that I have used a lot that can withstand temperatures to 900degC without burning. Forget the name at the mo though. Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted January 28, 2014 Share Posted January 28, 2014 The best engine paint systems are those used by the "fanatics" who restore cars and mostly the Hot Rod guys. These guys are very fussy but the systems they use are very simple. Treating rust in difficult areas is a job for a Phosphoric acid clean. Your local Resene shop has a product call Rust Gobbler which should be used after cleaning up the rust and loose paint (power tool clean/hand prep (wirebrush etc...) You can prime with a anticorrosive primer (inhibitive / sacrificial / barrier) then top coat (enamel / polyurethane) Or you could do what the painters do on Auckland harbour bridge and use a moisture cure polyurethane. (Self priming MIOX top coat) Akzo Nobel have recently purchased the Hammerite company and they have a Moisture cured enamel top coat which is self priming and very good. It applies easily is very tough (scratch and Mar) and resistant to many fluids you may use around engines. Link to post Share on other sites
wheels 543 Posted January 28, 2014 Share Posted January 28, 2014 I am really liking your expert knowledge Sailor X. It is nice having someone with lots of product knowledge (obviously much more than me) give advice. Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted January 28, 2014 Share Posted January 28, 2014 Thanks Wheels. unlike you I do not have the vast array of knowledge across a huge range of subjects and enjoy your broad knowledge of "stuff" that I have no or very little understanding of. Your post on "your" Prop speed makes very good reading. I commented in the Antifoul thread about the original product and your summation is not far of the prop speed product. Have a look at the detail in the link. in particular the references (who were involved) and generic product types cheers Link to post Share on other sites
wheels 543 Posted January 29, 2014 Share Posted January 29, 2014 Just remember that Knowledge comes from Experience and Experience comes mostly from Stuff ups. But I like playing with ideas and with a little knowledge, the ideas are not too far out in left field. I don't really expect the Silicon I used to last, but then again, it will be interesting to see. But since then, I have played with a Two pot pourable Silicon for a completely unrelated project I am currently working on. I wish I had the stuff when I had the boat out of the water. It would have been ideal. Tuff stuff. Link to post Share on other sites
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