Beccara

Ok at the risk of sounding completely stupid there's been some talk in the office today as to what is wet rot and what is wet wood. What are some of the criteria/major differences according to you all? One of our installer guys seems to think there isn't any difference and once a bit of wood is soaked in water it's in effect rotten and needs to be cut out. I'm working under a basic idea that rot is fungal in nature and turns the wood to a mush like consistency you can pick out with your fingernails

Thanks guys, If you're ever in Whangarei i owe you a drink. Router could work the area well so i got a routing guide for the Dremel, It's routed out 1/4" and i'm just waiting on the everdure to try. Next up is ID the wood and make the fillet as per above. It looks quite scary a few hours ago but now it's as you say dead easy

Hey all, Was after some advice, just found a crack in the glass on the edge of our boat after winter, waters got in and caused some rot/soft wet wood which i've just got out with the dremel, It's about 6" long, 1-1.5" wide an around 3/4" deep in places, Whats the best way to repair this fairly quick? I was thinking epifill over everdure but wondered if this was the best thing given it's wood and flexing and what not Cheers

If you really want to be anal about it then always compare multiple sets of data and try to work out "conflict" zones where 2 or more sets of data disagree about a hazard. The navionics webapp with sonar charts offer a great improvement in resolution but the data being "user submitted" can/will be off in places, so when compared with the LINZ charts you can get a good idea on where this may/may not be right and should let you know where you really can't cut corners

Didn't wheels make something to do this recently?

Best thing we did was goto our showing in our house and turn the shower on. Run it to the temp you like and the lowest pressure/flow rate you'd like and then time how long to fill a 10l bucket. If you have a meat thermometer measure the temp rise and make sure it's within the 25-30deg rise the unit spec's out

Saying he's been found now

Here's hoping he's ok

Yeah was a little tongue in cheek there, That doesn't even look load rated - Just shitty commercial grade crap

I bet the chain would give before that does!

The rope we have is from Hampidjan, I kinda remember some of the crap that went down with the name a while ago At the moment I've seen a few area where something loose nearby has brushed for an hour in the wind or so and I've seen these tiny wiff's off the rope. I'll get a picture soon. Didn't think about leather strips as I thought anything lose/not glued would potentially chaff internally with the rope but sounds like a good idea

Hi All, I've got a Dynice Dux rig that we installed last year and I've seen a few places now after staring at it for a while where I see chaff risk and also where a few things need to be tied around it. My first instinct to protect it is to whip out the electrical tape and give it a few turns around the various sections but I thought I'd ask here first and see if anyone knows of a better product to use that will adhere to rope well and give good protection Cheers

Its interesting the support for foam, I was under the impression that it wasn't suitble for electrical

Just please,please,please remember with inert gas like halon and co2 dont use them in a confined space if you can't get out/be aware that after you use them you should get the hell out of the area. Lethal atmospheres in confined spaces is a very dangerous mix

Whatever you buy, buy an extra 2 - One for when the sumbitch relights and one as a practice aid!

Last time i looked at it there was a pretty big cost involved, The master and switch module was around $4k NZD landed, If it's dropped in price then it's a huge wiring savior

Interesting bit from EV land: "As evidence of a growing confidence in the 30 kWh battery’s cell chemistry (and the fact it will now take less battery cycles to go further), Nissan warrants battery loss below 9 bars of capacity (70%), for the first 8 years or 100,000 miles (160,000 km) in the US and in Europe" I wonder what exact chem they are using, That are giving a 8 year 75% capacity remaining warranty

Well this weekend the head needing sorting. There's been a.... smell for a while and i suspected the bowl seal to the base had a pinched o-ring so after much toilet ducking the whole thing had to be taken apart and sure enough the o-ring was pinched and a small 'pool' had formed behind it near the motor. Whilst i had it apart i thought it good to give it a good cleaning and some 4 hours later everything was working and i had managed to maintain my composure during the whole event. Not a major project but a project none the less

Nicely said Wheels, LI chemistry do have a natural wanting to be fire however they can last quite some time. LiFePo4 should be 80%+ capacity after 4 years. I think i've seen some long life study somewhere, i'll dig it out

As another note, give comcom a call and pass them a copy of the terms, Quite often they will take a quick look and shot a note to the company giving them a warning. If it's not the first time they've come across them then they may issue fines and whatnot

Use a debit card on a separate account like some do where there is concern of other costs, If they dont accept that then a loaded travel card will work VISA. If they still refuse it then complain to VISA as they are breaching their merchant services agreement by refusing a valid VISA, They can refuse debit's if they are clued up but they can't reject a full VISA. As for the liability, Would be best to suck it up - It not valid and by the sounds of it even if they did cross it off if anything happened you'll be bringing in suit's anyway. CGA has your back, Case history has your back and my

Even then the councils have been taken to task on that Just gotta have large pockets and rules are slightly different for CG/LG

First thing to always remember, You can't contract out of law. Next thing is a contract can't be grossly unbalanced - You cant go to a professional, Hire them for a task and them contract out themselves out of liability should they mess up. Typically liability clauses are there to prevent 3rd parties causing one of the parties cost's i.e a yard will contract out liability of another user of the yard causing damage to your boat making your beef with the 3rd party rather than with the yard who would then go on to have a fight with the 3rd party. KN is right in that most contracts wouldn't st

Thanks guys!

More new regs Any details?