K4309

All these stories of professional crews on large commercial vessels acting like c*nts only reinforces my point about the 'might is right' rule. Whilst it is not a formal legal rule, it is clearly both a law of nature and a law of physics. Small sailing boats just need to stay well away from commercial shipping. Ideally so far away that the colregs never come into play in the first place. I think it is fair to assume any commercial fishing boat anywhere is NOT keeping a proper lookout. On the odd occasion they are, bonus. But if I had a bottle of whisky for every story I heard from so

On the morning of 6 December 1917, the French cargo ship SS Mont-Blanc collided with the Norwegian vessel SS Imo in the waters of Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada. The Mont-Blanc, laden with high explosives, caught fire and exploded, devastating the Richmond district of Halifax. At least 1,782 people were killed, largely in Halifax and Dartmouth, by the blast, debris, fires, or collapsed buildings, and an estimated 9,000 others were injured. The blast was the largest human-made explosion at the time.[1] It released the equivalent energy of roughly 2.9 kilotons of TNT (12 TJ).[2] Mont-Blanc wa

I understand you are correct in the technicalities of the rules IT. I guess what I am saying is a combination of your two points above. A prudent skipper will just stay out of the way of heavy shipping. The long extension of this is to meet his colregs requirements of avoiding a collision. I'm yet to see a situation where a yacht can't maneuver out of the way of a large ship, but the same large ship can maneuver out of the way of that yacht* I verbalise this 'prudent skipper' behaviour (to just stay well clear of heavy shipping) as the 'might as right' rule. *I have two e

This is when we need one of those youtibue videos of a sailing yacht getting ran down by a very large ship, cause they were sailing, or on starboard or something, but overlooked all the other rules like the shipping channels, were under pilot, RAM etc etc. I understand exactly what you are saying IT, esp with regards to the stand on vessel, but when you are in a yacht that can spin on a dime, looking at how to pass a cruise ship that takes 3nm to turn, I think it is far easier for everyone if you take early, obvious action to stay out of it's way, so you don't even get close enough to bec

Interestingly, when I was doing my Yachtmaster qualification, I quoted the "might is right" rule and got failed. I was convinced there was a rule that you had to give way to anything over 500t. I think it was an Auckland Harbour bylaw. Noting I was doing my Yachtmaster in the UK, so the instructor wouldn't have heard about in if it was an Auckland rule. I'm still firmly convinced you should give way to anything over 500t. While its not a rule as per the colregs, I'm fairly sure its a rule according to the laws of physics.

Deflating and inflating regularly wont hurt them at all. Things that might puncture or rip the PVC will, which is possibly a greater risk on how you roll them up, where you store them and what you inflate them on (i.e. gravel, instead of grass). Overall, deflating them and storing them so that they are out of the sun will be far far better than leaving them inflated in the sun. Good practice to have a brush / broom handy when you roll them up, so you can get off any grit, sand or stones that might rub / chaff the pvc when it is rolled up and squashed into a storage spot somewhere.

I'm not really following why you are upset? You've put a new AF over an existing ablative. Ablatives are designed to fall off. What has happened? Its fallen off? Then, in other patches you've applied the new AF direct to original undercoat. Does this mean you haven't used an epoxy barrier / tie coat such as interprotect? Again, if I've read your post correctly,and you've applied an ablative AF direct to glass (over wood), why are you surprised you are having problems? You need an expoxy sealer / tie coat. You haven't mentioned why you changed from Altex #5 to Warpaint? you

Are you talking about a ferro dinghy here? Might have some merits for a dinghy permanently in the water.

Note that a lot of fishing boats are 'actively' anchoring and fishing. This is usually in dodgy spots like trying to stray line onto reefs etc. Or in the middle of busy shipping areas, South end of Tiri Channel, Motuihe Channel. In that context I think keeping a proper lookout at anchor is entirely appropriate. At anchor at the back end of Bon Accord at 3 am not so much. Considering 98% of recreational boaties are fisho's in fizz boats, it is entirely likely the numpties 'interpreting' this rule have completely overlooked the fact that there is a small number of boaties that sleep on

My cheap PVC dink is lasting very well. But it is stored out of the sun and weather (in a dinghy locker). I think its 3 to 5 yrs old. What I can say is, based on talking to the supplier at the boat show, the replacement price has doubled. So based on the current rate of inflation, how old does that make it? 6 months? If left in the sun, these ones go to sh*t very quickly. Also, sunblock softens the plastiziers in the PVC. If you lather the sproglets in sunblock and then all jump in the dink to go to the beach, it gets all over the tubes. There are 3 solutions, wash the dinghy down wi

Sorry, I didn't read past this bit. I don't want to use anything YNZ has. Not the RRS. Not the Handicapping system. I want to be a member and use the assets of the Weiti BC, the Club rooms, moorings, hand stand and haulout. Currently YNZ have jacked the system so that for me, as a cruiser with a young family, I have to subsidise their 5 ringed circus. Currently it is not possible to be a member of a 'boating' club and not pay a large levy to YNZ. If they were doing any advocacy for common or garden variety boaties, then so be it, but they aren't. What is worse is they just pay lipser

I don't think that is the best analogy CD. YNZ is not a club. It is a National Body, or otherwise referred to as a National Authority, esp with respect to category ratings and a national handicaping system. Originally it was a Federation of Yacht Clubs, put together to represent those clubs on a national scale. It is simply not doing that now. At best, it is an extension of High Performance Sport NZ. Something needs to change. Many people have said it. Nothing has happened yet. Keen to hear your ideas.

You are struggling with reading comprehension aren't you? Lets see if I can simplify the explanation. Large club has 500 members. Only 20 want to race. Club wants to run a race programme, but would prefer not to hand over $30k p.a. to YNZ for the privilege. Existing club sets up a 'paper club' for the purposes of running racing. Said paper club can be domiciled in the premises of large existing club. Large existing club stops paying $30k p.a. to YNZ. Small paper club consisting of 20 members affiliates to YNZ, pays approx $600 for the privilege. Job done.

I've been pondering this, and EM's point. There should be a straight forward way around an entire club's membership paying cash to YNZ, when only a select few want to race. Now, what constitutes a club? It doesn't have to have clubrooms and assets. SSANZ is a good example of that. I assume (without going and checking) its going to need something like a constitution, a functioning committee and be registered as some sort of non-profit legal entity (like a Society, Trust or Club or something). Now, what is to stop two clubs sharing clubrooms / a venue? So we could have the Weiti

Yup, the sole reason for YNZ's existence is a copyright issue. The single thing that keeps YNZ levying our yacht clubs, and us, so much, is that they control the copyright of the racing rules of sailing, via world sailing. When the Weiti BC moved to withdraw from YNZ, and all the paid staff came and gate crashed out SGM (accept, of course his holiness) the only thing they could come up with that the Weiti BC would miss out on was the RRS. Nothing else. Nil. Zip. Nadda. Imagine what the launch owners and Ma & Pa cruisers thought of that?

With respect, I think all you guys have been conned. The real question is, why are we funding a federation of yacht clubs with enough resources to employ comm's specialists to worry about doing survey's on laws that haven't changed for decades? Yachting NZ are about as effective as a pimple on my arse for anything that matters. They didn't even know about the caulerpa ban in the BoI until I phoned them, so clearly weren't engaged with govt departments and advocating for boaties, nor influencing any decisions. They've left all the heavy lifting to the AYBA on one of the most existenti

Is this first photos State Highway 1 at the Brynderwynns?

I would not rely on the NtM being correct. The Harbour Master would struggle to organise a root in a whore house. There were no NtM for the two missing / damaged Weiti River beacons listed as damaged, so I phoned to report them. This was approx 2 months after they would have been damaged in either the Anniversary Day floods or Cyclone Gabriel. He was like 'yeah, we know about them, already ordered the materials and waiting for the contractor to fix them'. I asked if he should perhaps issue a NtM for them? (said with incredulity and sarcasm) He was like, "oh yeah, that's a good idea..

I thought you old skool types just used a bucket?

I believe I've worked out the compensation limit question. It is temperature compensation. Mid point is 25degC. Ambient temp currently is about 15degC, i.e. 10 deg lower than mid point. My new batteries have temperature compensation of 30mV/C. A random example Victron VRLA battery has 24mV/C. At 10 degrees cooler, the regulator is adding 0.3v / 0.24v to the target voltage to compensate for the cooler ambient temp. I expect that if I warmed up the temp probe to 35degC, the regulator would reduce the bulk charge voltage by 0.3v. If this is correct, A. I can test it really easily b

Hi IT, I haven't been able to get the fuse to blow again. Would this change your recommendation on replacing the unit? Started and ran the engine several times today, behaved normally. If I take the fuse out it will run at high voltage. Put it back in, runs fine. Note that we did have the sense wire on the house batts, which is behind the VSR and therefore can't be 'seen' by the alternator when it is closed. I've shifted the sense wire to the start batt, which can always be seen by the alternator. We've also determined why we don't get a high voltage alarm. The lead from th

Hi IT, What is the regulator supposed to do when the sense fuse blows? And is there any tests or a 'recreation' I can run to confirm there is a problem with the regulator?

Mwahaha Russel is in Europe somewhere at the moment supporting a small team racing moths (I think his son).

You sure its not just your animal magnetism? Are they southern hemisphere compasses? Northern hemisphere ones are different, and 90% of compasses sold globally are northern hemisphere. I don't actually know how they are different, but they are different. And no, its not just the needle pointing south instead of north. If they are brand new (2 months old) and procured in a hurry before departure, this may not have been checked.

It is only a problem when the sense fuse has blown. Everything works fine (as it has for the last 20 odd years) when the fuse is in place. Someone on here posed the question the other day, why is the regulator not alarming / telling us its lost the sense wire? I think if I can resolve that question, it will resolve / explain the basic issue. Yes, we can programme the Regulator. It is actually on Pro2, FLA. (The old house batts were FLA). BUT, it has always given a bulk charge of 14.8v, and Pro2 doesn't use 14.8v. It uses 14.4 I think. So it is likely my father did a user programme at