wheels

Everyone is overlooking the real issues. Firstly, that PoA somehow had RC passed in their favor without the Public knowing there was anything tabled to read and voice opinion on. Secondly and the main issue IMO, it is not about the tide flow. In fact that is a red hearing. They are going to use Piles so tide still flows under the structure. The main issue is that the entrance into the Harbor is going to be reduced in width by 150m. Anyone that has headed in or out of that bottle neck knows what it is like to navigate all the idiots going every which way. But it is a nightmare at "rush hr" on

And two shipwrecked sailors sailed from the Auckland Islands, in a make shift dingy with a bot of a sail, to find NZ and even sailed through a Hurricane and still made it to NZ. Being able to sail 4 Kerosine tins tied together (twas how I was told one of my ancestors sailed from Sweden to NZ ) does not mean BB is interested in also having 4 Kero tins as her boat. Knowing a little about her, she has been a live aboard and her choice of new Boat will most likely reflect that, hence her requirement she asked for. Sure someone could sail a Lotus across the Pacific, but it is not a Cruiser, was n

A Lotus 9.2 as an offshore cruiser??? seriously? PM Shanson. He is willing to talk turkey on price and with looking at some of those on offer that have been shown here, I suggest he might have to talk more Goose than Turkey. The Cascade is a very capable Hull. A US design and popular up there. BP knows a little about them and may chime in. It's interior is dated, the boat overall is solid and well built. You tend to get two different kinds of builds from the US. Either solid dependable Ocean travelers or light weight lake boats that should never be taken out of the Marina. Sadly ther

Shanson still has his Cascade 36 for sale I think.

Must try some of this stuff. Just read a heap about it and it sounds almost too good to be true. The Technical specs state that you can add as you have asked and as OE has said. http://www.durepox.com.au/products/tdss ... 20TDS1.pdf See Note: on Pager two.

Same as MB. Personally I would not take the risk. Just because something is Urathane or Epoxy means nothing to compatibility. There are so many variations. It would be horrible to coat the whatever you are painting and then find it never actually fully cures or creates the long lasting finish it should have, which is the reason you use such a finish in the first place. Or even worse, have it react or not go of at all and then you are left with a mess to get off. Because such coatings harden and cure by Chemical reaction, adding something it was never intended to have added to it, can affect

So is there a Hole in the bottom of the bowl that allows a view of all the Goods? or is there some kind of a flap that opens and closes so it all remains discrete? So I can understand after it has composted for a couple of days, that there would be no smell when you go to empty it. But what about the days...errr....pile. Or do you put that aside and empty the composted stuff and then...nah that sounds all too messy. So do you just put up with one or two "steamers"? Now here's another good question. So what about someone seasick and rushes to the loo to throw up in the loo? Can it deal wi

Yeah but "nice looking" is not what would sell me on supplying a particular engine. First of all, I want to know reliability and that comes from years of a manufacturer growing their reputation. Then as a supplier, I would want great back up, ability to get parts with ease and at reasonable cost and service information. Then finally the looks... maybe... which really come down to design considerations, like being able to get at points on the engine for easy service when it is installed in a confined space on a Boat. Having had a lot to do with many various Chinese products over the years, Pers

Never physically worked on one and I think that is because they have a good reputation for reliability and Kubota have a fantastic reputation for realiability. It comes down to, will you get good service from the supplier, which I can't answer of course. Another real plus is the huge range of models available including a lovely Sail drive version.

Not misunderstood the operation, but misunderstood the scenario. Which is a standard installation, but as I was also discussing PW's situation, I had a different installation scenario in mind. CTek are OK, but stating 8 step is misleading. Plus Desulphation is complete snake oil. Once a Battery has sulphated, that's it. You can not reverse Sulphation. IT, this is the Charge splitter I use. http://www.studer-inno.com/?cat=mosfet_ ... _splitters The Diode based ones are solid state too, but the problem is the forward conducting voltage drop issue with them. That can be overcome by a smal

Arr I see, I have miss understood which battery you are connecting disconnecting. So in your case, the VSR is disconnecting the Start battery from the House, which are connected via VSR so as ALT charges House via start route, but disconnects Start from House when engine stops and Start Batt drops below 12.8. Is that correct? Re the Next step, I didn't know there was a new model. I need to get up with the program. It's been a few years since the electrical game now. Oh and something else I have not come across is over voltage Alarm. Oh boy, I am feeling the technology world has wizze

That's the one. The name escaped me. It is a fault that has happened to others. The design does not have a an over voltage safety feature outside of the Charge sense controller. So if that part fails with this one particular type of fault, it fails in a mode the causes the ALT to output High Voltage. Good question. Firstly, Gel requires slightly different charging characteristics from that of AGM and FLA. That is because too hard a charge will result in gas bubbles forming in the Gel. There are three steps to a proper charge and some chargers can give you a fourth for Equalisation charge.

Further to that, if you remember Shazzam the Charter Boat from out of Havelock, had a Multistep charge controller on the Alternator. The Boat nearly caught Fire due to a design issue with these chargers. If they fault, they seem to fault to High charge output with the Voltage so high, it fries everything. They had to replace all the electronics and battery banks and found several areas where electronics mounted against Bulkheads had fried and burned the Bulkheads. Mark, the Marine Sparky in Havelock, refuses to install them anymore.

Yes I agree. Most mulitple output chargers (that I know of) have one main high current channel and one or two lower current output. e.g, 50A+15A+15A for say. I have always assumed they have two or three separate charge units inside the box. I really can not see how you could ever safely charge a secondary Bank if sensing only the primary Bank and then charging solely to that Banks requirement. Because most normal installations will be a Large House bank and smaller Start banks.

If you don't have MPPT, get one of those with multi outputs. Personally I don't like VSR's because one battery will never ever get a full charge, because the VSR drops it out at 12.8V or whatever it is set to drop at.

Really? That is unbelievable. I thought Mastervolt were a seriously good charger. A splitter doesn't "sense" anything. It isolates so as no one Battery Bank "see's" another Battery Bank. So you can have dissimilar Battery Bank sizes and each Bank will get what is required to charge that Bank without it or another having any influence on the charge current or the other. Ummm, did that make sense? The only time a Battery will get charged incorrectly is if that Battery has a crook cell, just as you have found. There is no saving of that battery. But unfortunately others connected in the bank a

Oh right I see. A tripple output splitter would certainly be the way to go. Make sure you get the FET controlled unit, which has no voltage drop like the older cheaper Diode type units. Solar power is too precious to have it wasted.

Never assume anything Unless it has the terminals for DVS, then I doubt it. I would also imagine the Model No would tell you what it was. I would most certainly look at dual charge output. You don't need to buy a new Reg for that. The cheaper option would be a charge splitter. You cna even get three output units. However, how does the engine charge the three banks now? Is there a splitter alreay installed?

I agree, and if anything is negative, I hope it is toward the cheap Euro production boats. Not all Euro boats are bad. I would love a Swan for instance. But as for good solid Kiwi Boats, I hope ones reading this thread will get the point that they will tend to out last and in fact many already have outlasted many cheap of the light weight things. BNG, an Auction that starts off high and decreases as time goes on, is called a Dutch Auction. Yes I agree it's a stupid way to sell a Boat, but maybe a great way for someone to get a Bargain.

The first thing I would do is price up a new Crank, 2 new Pistons, A new Connecting rod, rings and Gasket set. Ask a recon guy what boring two cylinders would cost. You might find all up it is not too bad, you end up with a really good engine and it fits right back in with no hassles. Going to some other engine can become a nightmare and huge expense. The Yanmar may look cheap, but it is an unknown, and will take some work to fit and it is far more powerful which can also cause issues. Forget the air cooled, they get far too hot in a confined space and will cause big problems.

Nope, that's impossible. The shell is called just that. It is a hardened steel shell with white metal poured into the shell as the actual bearing material. Lets say the bearing got starved of oil due to a blockage in the crank oil feed. The Crank will grab the white metal and via a lot of friction, the White metal will all end up as a pile of shavings in the bottom of the sump under the Crank journal. The crank Journal will most likely have turned Blue from Friction heat. From factory, they do not seal the Sump gasket, so there is another clue. So using our powers of Deduction dear Homes, I

Nothing at all? You found nothing in the bottom of the sump? It must have sounded like a bag of hammers when it was running. With no bearing, the Piston would never reach full stroke and thus full compression and thus not enough heat to ignite the Fuel. So how badly worn is the crank? Is this just the one cylinder, or both? What about the Score mark in the bore? Obviously something serious has happened, someone has pulled it apart and had no idea what they were doing. They probably had no idea what the left over bits were. Either that, or they had a repair at sea and this was an "only

Is that your engines head erice? If it is, it looks like the engine has done very little work. You are still going to need to bore the Cylinders and fit oversize Pistons, but you may not need to grind the crank, or replace any of the Crank bearings. You only need to do that on a high hrs engine where fitting new Pistons/Rings places a lot more load on the old bearings and they fail. That's a little saving. Then there is the Head. I looks great condition and so you would get away with nothing needed there either. A bit more of a saving. You have already done the injectors, so no more cost there

Sorry mate, that score, from what I can tell in the pic, looks too bad for a hone. I think you are going to need to have the cylinders rebored and that means new Pistons, crank ground, bearings etc etc.