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Joining transducer wire


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Hi all,

has anyone had any experience with cutting and then rejoining transducer wires? I’ll have to drill some pretty big holes in the boat if I run the wire with the plug still on it, so I’d prefer to be able to just run the wire and rejoin it in a out of site place. 
any thoughts?

 

cheers

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29 minutes ago, Winter said:

Can be done, glue filled heatshrink and solder is how most people do it.  Make the connnection somewhere high, dry, and provide solid strain relief either side of the join and it should last for ever.  

Thanks - have came across these too - any thoughts?

https://www.bluebottlemarine.com/products/in-line-splice-kit-transducer-cable-joiner-7-pin.html

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I've not used that, but It looks ok - the issue with most joints is movement weakening the wire strands over time.  This thing has glands at each end to make it all rigid, seems pretty good.  

You do loose the overall screen though.  Probably not a problem, but maybe keep it out of the engine room and away from radios. 

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I have used solder and heat shrink,but in some cases where I need to disconnect the cables in the future eg wind speed cables, I have connected them at Blue Sea terminal strips following these guide lines

https://pbase.com/mainecruising/terminating_small_wires

I finished up buying the tools and terminals from USA because I could not find them in NZ at the time

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Can you cut the plug off and install a new nmea plug at the bus end? 

Failing that, then we use a "solder splice", (Google it, it's a thing), and for backup we cover that with glue heat shrink.  Time consuming and you need to strip back more wire to get the glue heat shrink away from the heat that's generated when solder splicing. 

I thought the CAN-BUS cabling was twisted pair? You might get signal degradation if that's the case... 

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13 hours ago, CarpeDiem said:

Can you cut the plug off and install a new nmea plug at the bus end? 

Failing that, then we use a "solder splice", (Google it, it's a thing), and for backup we cover that with glue heat shrink.  Time consuming and you need to strip back more wire to get the glue heat shrink away from the heat that's generated when solder splicing. 

I thought the CAN-BUS cabling was twisted pair? You might get signal degradation if that's the case... 

to my knowledge all NMEA plugs are sealed, none available to make up a plug.

 

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