erice 732 Posted March 18, 2016 Share Posted March 18, 2016 imho just tighten the nuts up correctly only pain or waste of time results from throwing epoxy at oily threads and steel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wheels 543 Posted March 18, 2016 Share Posted March 18, 2016 An earlier poster to this thread suggested the possibility of something not being done up correctly and I thought 'come on, Wheels, what sort of moron neglects to check that? Well ya see, you are dealing with an expert here. Much experience on such maters, gained from years of maki....I mean, finding such mistakes. stud had separated from the rubber part. I had imagined that on a flexible mount the stud would go through the top plate and be embedded into the rubber. Not so. On my mounts the stud went through the top plate only and was welded to it on the underside and this was then attached somehow to the rubber portion. Super glue?? yes the rubber is just the meat in the sandwich. The stud is welded to the top plate, and the rubber is bonded in between, which is what isolates the noise/vibration made by the engine from the engine bearer/Hull/. A lot of power and torque is coupled to a Boat Hull via just that bonded surface of the four mounts. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rigger 47 Posted March 18, 2016 Share Posted March 18, 2016 Was on a boat that had the engine mounts fail in a seaway - we realized if we got knocked over / rolled the engine would move a lot.... When the owners replaced the engine mounts they fitted gear to prevent the engine shifting if the vessel got knocked over / rolled. It might be a Cat 1 requirement? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Island Time 1,239 Posted March 19, 2016 Share Posted March 19, 2016 Yep, required for cat one. I had to add some spectra loops to my engine mounts as the inspector wasn't happy with the engine mounts. Nothing wrong with belts and braces - a sail drive adrift could leave a nasty big hole in the hull!!. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest 000 Posted March 19, 2016 Share Posted March 19, 2016 Been thinking about it more, and I am going to fill the slots in the flexible mounts with thickened epoxy. Once the engine is aligned and the mount studs centralised in the engine bracket slots, I like the idea of the flexible mounts being unable to move - the slots in the engine brackets will provide more than enough adjustment. The rationale for this is that filling the slots removes a potential source of movement and therefore misalignment, especially as my bearers are heavy steel to which the flexible mounts are drilled and tapped into. The bolts holding the flexible mounts down on the bearers then have to do only that, hold the mounts down. They don't have to prevent lateral movement. I have used epoxy in this way before and what I like about it is that with epoxy as a filler and studlocker, you will never undo the bolts - unless you want to. Then all you have to do is apply a little heat with a micro torch which will soften the epoxy, and the bolts will easily come out. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
erice 732 Posted March 19, 2016 Share Posted March 19, 2016 and cook the rubber but your boat Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest 000 Posted March 19, 2016 Share Posted March 19, 2016 That's the beauty of a micro torch. Heat can be applied with precision, but it does require a little finesse, an understanding of heatsinks and occasionally the judicious use of a little fire cement. As I stated, it works very well for me but I accept it may not be for everyone. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wheels 543 Posted March 19, 2016 Share Posted March 19, 2016 It doesn't take a lot of heat to make the epoxy let go. I do the same for Locktite etc. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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