Fish

PS. Leeks are bad luck on boats.

Must have been the dreaded curse of the welsh onion.

In that order, I was thinking $7k. Note I don't have one (can't afford it). If your initial capital budget is $10k - $20k for the boat, as per the OP, then I think a water maker may be bit hopeful. (tell 'em he's dreamin) PS, that is excluding the extra solar and / or generator to run it And batteries to store all of that solar. And most likely an inverter because, if I'm correct, 12v systems need far too high a current to the pump to create the pressure required to run an RO unit effectively.

Wait until you see the price of a small 12v water maker... Will make jerry cans look extremely attractive.

The liability is if the boat sinks. Especially in the marina entrance, blocking the whole of the marina etc. Or if it catches fire. Fires in marinas are super cool... Or if it sinks in some pristine environmental spot and requires all sorts of spill response and detritus recovery. Councils love to recover their costs for all of these things. Now, with regards to risk. A boat is more likely to sink or catch fire if it is not regularly checked or maintained. Corroded sea cock. rusting hose clips. corroding wiring. bilge water flooding a battery (may not catch fire but salt water in a FLA ba

Because, on a low value boat, there is no difference in liability to the insurance company. But there is likely an increased risk. 3rd party normally requires a minimum of $5mil cover (or there abouts?) if a low value boat is worth somewhere between $10k - $30k, the liability doesn't change for the insurance co and their underwriters (fractions of a percent). A $2mil Riv or Leopard cat or something, the liability increases by 40%. But, whoever owns a $2mil boat is going to make sure it is well looked after. Possibly professional detailing and servicing. Possibly remotely monitored bilge a

So if there is no cost difference between 3rd party and full, why not just get full insurance? that is available. Is the problem survey's etc? I expect they apply regardless of the level of insurance. The bulk of the risk is in cost of salvage. It may be that someone that only wants 3rd party are seen to not care about their boat (in the eyes of the insurance co) and that in itself is enough to put the risk up. I can see a behavioral thing there. Checking the boat regularly, fixing little issues, keeping up regular maintenance is what in reality reduces insurance risk. Only wanting 3

I may be wrong that it is 3rd party only, but boats worth $5k-$30k the premiums aren't going to change noticeably for full insurance, as the liability based on market value is next to insignificant. I spoke to a guy who bought a 727 type boat about 6 months ago and had no issues getting insurance for it. We're with Mariner. Have a 40 yr old home built kiwi boat, market value maybe $100k (we've had it 20 yrs so no real idea what the market value is). Full insurance on that is about $900 / yr. No survey, nothing at all. PS, in your mates situation, the brokers don't deal with Mariner,

You will need insurance at fairly much any place to haul out and re-do the antifoul. Black Panther has copper coat which is a 10 yr antifoul. Keep that in mind, and suss how you will maintain the boat (antifoul) as problems will escalate quickly if you let it get away. The Council compliance team may issue a requirement to haul out (if they fined fanworm) with penalties if you don't. You can't haul out without insurance (anywhere that I know of), and often you can't get insurance if you are un-insured, or you need an out of water survey to get insurance, which you need to haul out for, which y

Ah... OK (slinks back into corner).

If you are going to run a new fuel line, chuck in one of those priming bulbs for an outboard motor. About $20 bucks at Burnsco I think. They make bleeding and priming an absolute breeze. And also much, much faster, if, say, you need to bleed an engine in a river mouth with a fast incoming tide and 20 knts up your jacksy.

I got wedged in a key-hole once while caving in a past life. It is amazing how a little bit of claustrophobia and a genuine, guttural fear for your life can get you out of a tight situation.

That is soo disappointing. I can't believe you fixed it so easily. You should have spent weeks, if not months, wedged upside down, lying on a bed of nails, swathed in diesel & oil, trying to adjust bolts with your teeth and using a measuring device that needs a minimum of 3 hands to hold straight... I bet you didn't even skin your knuckles. You know it is not possible to align an engine without skinning your knuckles. It is like a law of physics you know. Life is so unfair!

It looks a lot like a Seabird. We have a 3.1m seabird. If it is not a seabird, it is close enough in size shape and characteristics to have the same / equivalent performance. They are not light. At least, our 3.1 m one isn't. In the order of 55kg to 60 kg I believe. That one is obviously shorter than 3.1 m, what is it? about 2.7? I weighed it once, but also weighed another at the same time so get them mixed up. In saying that, ours has teak trim all the way around the coming, and a fancy rubber rubbing strake. That may not be a bad weight for a boat that size, but I am comparing it to a 2.9m d

16 hrs is not unrealistic. 2 days. Esp if that includes driving anywhere in Auckland traffic. Measuring, ordering and collecting new bearings. Getting the old ones out has a high variable time component, hence a degree of conservatism in the estimate I suspect. We did our own rudder bearings. Easily 2 days of faffing, probably more. The work on the boat maybe 5-8 hrs, but the specifying, ordering and collecting add to that. It is not that complicated a job, if you want to have a go yourself. The trickiest bit is measuring the rudder stock just right so you don't get slop or a tight r