Engine too hot

[vic008 17]

Little Shibaura 2 cylinder I added a heat exchanger to myself. Now she is overheating. Why would that be? Water coming out of exhaust. Exchanger feels cold.Any tips? Thanks

[too_tall 15]

First things I would look at being you state the raw water pump appears to be operating.. ( although check volumes running through that too ).

Is the circulation pump operating correctly? Its not got an airlock? pully sizes correct? or possibly the heat exchanger could be clogged?

[Island Time 1,240]

If the heat exchanger is cool to touch, then either there is insufficient flow through it on the fresh water side, or it has insufficient capacity to cool that engine. (or a faulty tem gauge/alarm - is it really hot?)  

 

Lack of fresh water flow can be dodgy fresh water circ pump, blocked, restricted, or undersized cooling circuit (pipes to the heat exchanger, or the exchanger itself - it's unlikely to be in the engine design, but the internal galleries can be clogged. Did it work fine when it was (was it?) raw water cooled?

 

The coolness of the outside of the heat exchanger makes me think there is sufficient flow on the raw water side. I'd take off the fresh water outlet from the heat exchanger and check the flow rate...

 

What is the heat exchanger and what are it's rated capacities for cooling?

[waikiore 403]

Thermostat working and allowing good flow on the fresh side?

[wheels 543]

 

I added a heat exchanger to myself.

Vic, that comment kind of makes the rest of your post take on a whole new meaning

 

What is the temperature?

Why did you fit a new one?

Is it the exact same as the old one?

Have you tested the thermostat?

I assume you have it plumbed so as Salt water is flowing around outside and Hot engine water through internal core.

 

[vic008 17]

Am thinking pump stuffed, and the cover plate is go to shatter if I persist anymore at trying to remove. Removed thermostat and no difference. So am thinking how about buying a 12v. water pump? Any reason why that wouldn't work? So what would I buy? Thank you.

[erice 732]

most of the little 12v elec pumps probably already have more "flow" than needed

 

so don't go too big in when buying

 

BUT

 

i would be worried that if the sea water impeller is dead

 

that the rubber tines are in there blocking the lines....

 

but if you can get good water flow through the engine-heat exchanger with the engine not running

 

you're probably ok to start the engine and, at an idle while moored/docked, and monitor the outlet water temperature and the engine surface temp.

 

would help if you had some temps + time data from the engine before the "repair"

 

to compare with the temps + times after the "repair"

 

(but going back to your very first post - if water is coming out of the exhaust the pump is at least partially working so putting in an elec pump isn't going to change anytthing.....but if the heat exchanger is not getting hot it sounds like the engine water loop is not going through the exchanger.........is the engine water pump ok? if it is then your next step is tp check the heat exchanger core isn't blocked........can you post a pic of the heat exchanger?) 

[vic008 17]

Thanks. We're talking the Shibaura fresh water pump is bust I think.The Jabsco pump is fine.

[erice 732]

so the belt-driven, engine water pump that drives water through the block is dead

 

have you tried to flush the block, do you know the waterways are open?

 

this supposedly a ford/shibaura 2 cyl diesel tractor engine

 

not possible to pull the water-pump and replace?

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Shibaura-Engine-or-Shibaura-tractor-water-pump-SD2200-/262363086993

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-tractor-Shibaura-engine-water-pump-1000-1600-/381572980220

 

http://tractorpoint.com/forum/shibaura-tractor-review/182465/1/Shibaura-SD1500B-Water-Pump.html

 

[wheels 543]

Vic, firstly, you are going to have a heart attack when you see the price for an Engine Water circulating pump. Secondly, I seriously doubt the pump is the problem. Usually the main issue with circulating pumps when they fail is Bearing and Seal. Easy to check. Simply remove the belt and the wiggle the pulley and see if you get any movement. There should be none. A replacement pump is not expensive and i suggest you do that if you really suspect the pump. HOWEVER!!! You need to check some simple and obvious first.
Is Fan belt correctly tensioned?
Removing the Thermostat may not work. What happens is that the water is being pumped around too fast and does not have a chance to cool enough and the engine can over heat. Test the Thermostat by dropping in a container and pouring Boiling water over it. It should open up. To test them properly, use a thermometer and heat the water with thermostat in the water. The thing should open and the temp stamped on the thing.
Simple and useful tool is an infra red temp sensor. They can be had cheap at under $30. The beauty of these is to test the temp at various places around the engine. First place I would test is the block where the sender unit for the gauge is fitted. See of the gauge temp and the IR temp are similar. Check Temp of hot water entering Heat exchanger and leaving HE. Have you checked that the HE inner core is not blocked?
 

[vic008 17]

Thank you. Belt tension good. Will check out the thermostat is working correctly. When pump spun by hand a couple of bubbles appear each time in header tank. But it just doesnt feel right when spun, backwards or forwards. Shouldn't I detect something? Have removed the 4 holding bolts and it just wont come off. It will break first

. Shoved a plastic hose up the int pipe and gently turned pump but didn't feel anything (it was far enough in to touch the vanes , if they were there. Thanks for those ebay things, close but not quite identical.

[wheels 543]

Does the pump spin freely? These have a very simple Bronze bearing. Not a ball race bearing. So you will not have a smooth feel, or rough feel like failed ball race bearings produce. Any movement will tell you that the Bush is worn. This eventually will cause the seal to leak. For some reason, I have not worked out why, some Pumps don't seem to want to circulate the water when the bearing is slogged out. Even with no leaks.
Make sure there is not a 5th bolt hiding somewhere. The pump housing will be attached by some gasket sealant and so will take a bit of leverage to remove. Tap it with a hammer or get a screw driver in between the sealing faces and tap it in. The Pump is  not repairable, so don't worry about breaking it. You buy a complete housing with impellor and flange for pulley. They are cheap as chips for what they are.

[vic008 17]

Well, had a hose jammed into the header tank with about 2' of head, and there was an almighty burp and hot water flying and since then all good. Must have been an airlock in the system.

[erice 732]

[too_tall 15]

Often I have seen people miss one air bleeder on a system when filling or recovering from an overheat, I have done it myself once or twice. Can be really hard to get the system to work if there is an airlock in it.