Resealing hatch

[Guest]

Is there anyone near Gulf Harbour that can reseal hatch "glass"..its not really the sort of job I want to risk doing myself.

[Fogg 427]

Mmmmm, not sure its' much help but last season I had 3 hatches all leaking to varying degress and needing a makover/reseal. I couldn't do it myself so used Bryn Wilson at GH as I've used them for much other work. Bottom line was that the cost of removing the hatches, sending them away for resealing and then refitting was not a lot less than buying new hatches. So that's what I did. Not cheap but at least I've got 3 nice new hatches which should last a long time to come.

[Bogan 8]

I'm about to do the same.

 

Before you spend money resealing, make sure there's nothing else wring with them: things like the sockets that the handles swing into being broken (mine are). With some things the hatch will leak even when the new glass/acrylic is put in.

 

At the moment I've fixed the seal around the glass with race tape (duct tape). It's been good for 12 months now. But the hatch leaks at the fittings when we get the bow properly underwater.

[tuffyluffy 76]

I bought a boat load from these guys and got a great deal. The owner is the ex owner of Weaver Hatches.

 

http://www.culehatches.co.nz/

[Guest]

whatever you do with rebedding new or old ports...use silpruf - it's expansion makes it the safest bet

[wheels 543]

Is that a sealant MTP?? Got any link or info on that??

[tuffyluffy 76]

Is that a sealant MTP?? Got any link or info on that??

 

Dont get him started Wheels, $0.10 says hes a troll flogging product.

[Guest]

Its got silicon in

[Fogg 427]

What's the problem with silicon?

[Guest]

Polyurethane based products stick way better and last way longer. Check out Sikaflex 295 UV, specific to the application.

 

Silicone based products are inferior for that application when poly will stick like sh*t to a blanket.

 

I have no commercial relationship to Sika.

 

Ask Wheels about silicone.

[Guest]

Yep. Brin Wilson did mine a couple of years ago. Excellent results.

[Fogg 427]

Yeah BW not only did 3 hatches but totally replaced my long saloon side windows. Was a non-trivial job requiring custom glass curving in two directions, cutting out some soft wood from the surrounds, making good and repainting the area to seamlessly match the existing colour. OK, the final bill chewed up most of my lotto winnings but (like a beautiful woman) it looks stunning and was worth it.

[wheels 543]

When it comes to perspex, I have had trouble getting anything to stick to the stuff long term. The one product I should have tried and have not is that very Sika 295. I have heard lots of good things about it, but have not had personal experience. Simply because I was anti paying the price of the sealant and the Primer. However in saying that, I have seen this product far far cheaper in places like Super cheap and Placemakers etc than the place I was once buying...I mean...window shopping for the suff in. So I would be willing to give it ago next time. I think the primer is the key to having a product stick. And that comes from experience of a plastic glue I have tried recently.I discovered the glue itself was none other than super glue. But the key and secret ingrediant was the Primer that came with it. Plastics Super glue would never normally stick to suddenly became well adhered once the primer was wipped over the edges.

By the way, any product that has the two letters "MS" in it, means Modified Silicon. So some of the urathane products are also silicon based.

Be very aware that Acid cure Silicons are leathal on Alluminium hatch frames. Silicons just do not handle long term use on boats and the damn stuff contaminates paint surfaces etc for years to come. I have never found a Pure silicon product that has adhered to Perspex yet.

[Fogg 427]

I don't remember what they used but they told me it was the same stuff used for sticking large windows to the outside of office buildings, so it's got to be pretty resilient then.

[Guest]

Would be polyurethane based AC for glass on buildings. Much stickier, for longer.

 

Silicon based products is great for forming thicker, softer non structural gasket applications - we used to use silicone based products for bedding the 50mm thick acrylic semi-circular tunnel panels in major aquariums around the world (think Kelly Tarltons etc). In this application the adhesion

required is minimal and panel flex/movement is more important.

 

They are bedded into an epoxied rebated concrete channel and the water pressure presses the curved acrylic into the channel so compressing the 'gasket'. Its all compression so stuff all adhesion required. Perfect for silicon.

[MrWolf 0]

I don't remember what they used but they told me it was the same stuff used for sticking large windows to the outside of office buildings, so it's got to be pretty resilient then.

 

Dow Corning 795 is the stuff.

 

It is awesome, because it needs no expensive primers like Sika.

It costs around $22 per 600ml sausage and is available from Glasscorp.

 

Look under Techtalk thread, post number 1, resealing windows.

 

It gives the best advice ever on resealing windows (andI'm sure your hatch will be much the same).

[wheels 543]

Not saying it is bad, if Mr wolf has had success with it, then great. DC795 is Construction Industry Silicon RTV. It is neutral cure making it OK to use on Aluminium and Anodised Ally.

Do understand that not all Silicon sealants are the same. Each are different for different uses.