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eWOF in Wellington


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I've read the 23 pages (whew) started in 2016 about the eWOF adventures in Westhaven, and we're climbing on that ride here in Wellington now. The over-riding takeaway from the earlier thread on eWOF seemed to be: the standards are loosely interpreted (ha, let's not open that up again?); at the end of the day it's down to the Marina and the Sparky; and at the VERY end of the day, it's about making sensible choices for your own safety and your own insurance.

 

It would, however, be good to share some successes locally, and some gotchas. I'm inclined to go back to that other thread and draw parallels and outcomes, we must be in about the same boat. Our favourite sparky is run off his feet, can't get near him! Tried another and had a very different experience. So for starters, can anyone recommend anyone?

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@Rehabilitated, that’s the point of this thread I guess — to establish the variables and the interpretation of those variables that eventually result in two things: an invoice and an eWOF sticker.

 

The main factors seem to be: installation of electrical systems (i.e. integrated into the vessel) versus a shore lead that goes to a battery charger/heater; the provision of a tag for a non-installed box versus a full eWOF for a vessel; the focus on different electrical systems (12v, 24v, 220/240v).

 

So if you have a small yacht with a little 12v panel, tidy electrics and a shore lead to a box on the floor that provides power via another lead straight to your charger/heater/whatever — then that’s a typical minimal-cost setup, which I guess relies a little on the sparky’s interpretation for eWOF. If on the other hand you have an installed mains-power system integrated into a 12/24v system, and it’s all a bit of a mess ... well you’re really at the mercy of the electrician’s skill and interpretation.

 

What we’re keen to do here is dissect the Westhaven eWOF experience of a few years ago, located in another thread on this site, and share new-and-local experiences regarding cost, gotcha’s etc.

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The little box with a single socket, RCD and (Hopefully) reverse polarity light is known as a ebox. Most marinas now will not accept these unless the boat is attended. Strictly speaking, this setup is not an "installed electrical system" and is not eligible for an EWOF.

Some inspectors, however, have allowed one of these screwed to the wall to be given an EWOF.

Others insist that a proper, installed system must be installed to get an EWOF.  This will cost $500-$3000 depending on what parts you use.

A basic system is a proper power lead receptacle, RCD, polarity warning light, if you have multiple power sources a 230v Switch panel with lockout so that only one source can be selected at a time (Shorepower or Inverter or Genset), a circuit breaker and a 10a socket.

Ask your inspector what he requires, a normal sparkie cannot give you an Ewof. If he wants to go thru the whole 12v system, get another inspector. 

Note that the 2014 "standard" that some inspectors try to use has never been sighted in the courts, and is not law. The 2008 one is the law, and it is not retrospective - you don't have to redo the whole boat to comply with a that standard, but the install must be safe.

 

Personally I think you should also add a galvanic isolator in the green earth cable, just before it does to the shorepower cable receptacle on the boat. This will prevent other boats (or your own) stay current and galvanic corrosion issues being exacerbated by the common ground. Without it, other boats connected can consume your anodes, if they are not properly protected themselves. This is why they are sometimes referred to as "Zinc savers".

 

Unfortunately there is a lot on contrary information in this area, it's a shambles. What you are told varies person to person. As a layman, get an ewof, then forget about the complexities.

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Oh, and I forgot. The AC ground must be connected to the dc - at one point only.

Interesting you say that. I have just had a setup installed specifically for getting a e wof.

From one of the only 2 that are allowed to issue them in WELLINGTON.

 

The ac ground is definately not connected to the dc.?

Definately no reverse polarity light either.

 

Only 2 power points, with a rcd and circuit breakers. Nothing else.

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If they have you an ewof Jason, you dont have to worry about it, especially if you stay in the same marina. However, without it, your boat does NOT meet the ewof requirements. Sorry. Personally, if they quoted for an install to ewof standard, then I'd make them fit one.

And connect the earth properly as per the regs.

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I Just looked up the reverse polarity requirement; Quote from the regs;

 

3.5.3.2 Protection against reversal of polarity in the supply lead
Except where shore power is supplied to the boat by an on-board isolating transformer or
converter with a polarized output, a means shall be provided for checking the polarity
(active to neutral) of the incoming supply.
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And here is the PIC of a typical shorepower connection for single phase. Note the "To vessel Earth" at the bottom of the drawing on the vessel side. This is the AC-DC bond, often at the engine block, or ground plate.

 

Shorepower Connection.png

 

 

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IT...sorry confused ...diagram says optional galvanic isolator...my boat and quite a few others don't have a big heavy diesel or engine beds. Care to explain/discuss what the best option is to achieve compliance. To the best of my limited knowledge my boat doesn't have a vessel ground.

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My professionally installed and EWOF'd AC system is very simple.  Approved external plug, RCD switchy thing, double socket.  Definitely no inter-connection to 12V system (why would you?).  I would add that my 12V system (again, done by a professional) does not include earthing to engine, all -ve connections go back to battery.  I'm no electrical genius but I simply don't understand why some 12V systems include the engine.  Asking for trouble galvanically?

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Your dc neg system DOES include your engine, otherwise the starter would have no negative. It would need two cables.
Connection of ac neg and DC ground is required as a safety system. Many appliances, incl batt chargers and inverters, could fault and make the DC live to ac. Grounding will ensure the circuit breaker or fuse trips immediately. This is why its included in our regs, aus, and ABYC standards at least. Probably others.
Anyone who has an install that does not comply with this should consider having it fixed. Their install is not professional, regardless of who did it!

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My professionally installed and EWOF'd AC system is very simple.  Approved external plug, RCD switchy thing, double socket.  Definitely no inter-connection to 12V system (why would you?).  I would add that my 12V system (again, done by a professional) does not include earthing to engine, all -ve connections go back to battery.  I'm no electrical genius but I simply don't understand why some 12V systems include the engine.  Asking for trouble galvanically?

I guess that’s what I’m wondering too....

Basically I have the same as you, with 2 outlets, one for a charger and one for a dehumidifier.

If it’s signed off without the grounding to the ac, is there practically any advantage in adding it.-

I guess there is a connection to the dc system happening through the charger- so still at risk of galvanic corrosion if something goes wrong? Chargers not a transformer type, so not fully isolated.

I have sterndrives, so pretty paranoid about corrosion to say the least!

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I should add I queried the need for earthing out the dc side, at the time if installation, only a few months ago. The electrician was adiminant it was not required, and only increased risk of corrosion.

Just goes to show what a shambles the whole ewof process is, completely different interpretations of the regs depending who does it.

 

I really question if it has made any improvements to the quality or safety of installations overall

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I think you would be in trouble if you have an AC connection to your batteries!  I agree about the quality/safety thing, after spending a BOAT unit on getting a sign-off for something pretty damn simple.

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Yep, that's out of the new one, but this bit is the same. On a boat with no ground plate, the engine block is normally used. The galvanic isolator is optional, but IMO it shouldn't be.

OK understand. So it would seem like others above my boat has an EWOF with a simple lead from Dock to a 4 way ebox with each pair of 240AC outlets protected by breakers. So as per your diagram from the regs I have everything except the to vessel ground and galavanic islolator.

 

My DC system is only ever connected to the AC system when I charge the house battery with a CTEK 5.0 amp charger while on board at the dock. The Ctek has built in safeties also. 

 

As per the above comments I have a manual start 9.8 outboard which can charge the house batt via rectifier/regulator when connected via manually switched isolator,  So unless I'm missing something my entire 12v system is back to the -ve post on the battery. My understanding is this technically does not comply? Is this correct? As per IT comment then how would the forum recommend that the system be made compliant on a boat that weighs 2200kg, with a manual start outboard and a simple 12 volt system?  

 

I should note the whole reason for obtaining an EWOF was so I could run a dehumidifier when away from the boat in acccordance with the EWOF regs. Note boat has a current EWOF.

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Galvanic corrosion happens through DC cabling as well. If you have a galvanic isolator, then the shorepower connection wont make any difference. If you dont, I'd leave the ac ground and DC neg disconnected. However, be warned this is not compliant, and could possibly void your insurance if you had a fire.

I'm not an inspector, if you have an ewof, as a layman that's all that can be expected, and all the marinas ask for.

Its concerning though, that inspectors are signing off unsafe installs....

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Completely agree about stray dc current being the biggest culprit.

I had a alloy prop shrink in size by about 2 inches over 6 months. Eventually found that someone had joined in a new bilge pump 3 inched off the pump, so the join was always wet...

 

So should I be nervous about the battery charger? It’s a pro mariner pro sport 20a triple charger, which is designed to be left running continuously apparently...

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