ab1974 1 Posted November 27, 2011 Share Posted November 27, 2011 Do you guys use one continuous sheet for the gennaker or two separate sheets. My sheets are slightly too short for outside gybes, so thinking of getting KM to splice a 1.5m piece lightweight line on to the end of the sheets. I could keep them seperate or get the new thin line spliced to each existing sheet (thus joining them) with a loop in the middle for either a clip or dogbone. Thought appreciated. Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Rocket Posted November 28, 2011 Share Posted November 28, 2011 seperate - less snags - you want the old sheet to blow completely in gybes Link to post Share on other sites
B00B00 310 Posted November 28, 2011 Share Posted November 28, 2011 or just slip the cover back (if its a spetcra core) you only need cover where it goes on the winch so if you mark that next time the gennaker is up then measure it and slip the cover back to there, the excess cover is your tail. Link to post Share on other sites
ab1974 1 Posted November 28, 2011 Share Posted November 28, 2011 Good idea B00B00. Unfortunately sheets aren't spectra. Have asked KM to splice a lightweight tail onto the existing sheets and keep them separate. Have also asked him to splice a soft shackle onto the end of the tail. Any reason why I wouldn't use the soft shackle on the gennaker sheets?? Just not that keen on having clips on the gennaker when gybing and if it is flogging with bowman on foredeck. I'm not sure I even need clips on the spinnaker sheets, but could always attach clips to the gennaker sheets using the soft shackle if need be. Again we normally use bowlines and end for end the pole (E7.9) and haven't found a need to release the guy in a hurry...... yet Link to post Share on other sites
brainscott 0 Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 I am looking at using a pair of Wichard quick release snap shackles for spinnaker sheet attachement on an A sail. Has anyone had issues with these. I used them previously, attached directly to the clew and found they occassionally unlocked if the kite was flogged. I am told that if you have a strop on the clew of an A sail this is not a problem. Any thoughts or experiences? Link to post Share on other sites
RushMan 31 Posted February 17, 2012 Author Share Posted February 17, 2012 May have come up with a solution without using tape on the existing fittings. Cricket bat grips. They fit over the shackle, can be rolled back to unclip, then rolled up to cover the quick release mechanism. Fitted last week but we only had the gennaker up so no feedback yet on if it works or how long the grip will last. Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Rocket Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 I see the strops in use but am nervous that they turn the clips into missiles. sort of like strops on mainsheet blocks (very 70/80s retro). I don't really get the strop thing... Good clips generally don't come undone with a bit of a flog. We flapped a kite bigtime one day (at least 10 minutes) and ntg came off. Link to post Share on other sites
RushMan 31 Posted March 25, 2012 Author Share Posted March 25, 2012 Gibb shackles for the kite sheets now on the boat, one needs two hands to operate so complaint has been filed in the suggestion box. Gib shackle on the halyard, less than 12 months old, let go just after the hoist at the top mark in the first BMW race today, very frustrating after getting there first. Our on board analysis came up with catching on a mast fitting and flicking open or jamming the shackle in the mast head sheave and creating an angle that the shackle didn't like. The other option is that our bowman (me) needs to hand in his union card and be moved back in the boat to adventure land. My body is currently thinking that might be a good idea. Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted March 25, 2012 Share Posted March 25, 2012 Taped the clips alll weekend and didnt have any problems. Have found in the past though if you dont feed clews out over lifes lines they can catch in the hoist. Go the mighty Spoofhead! Bathtub on steroids! Link to post Share on other sites
RushMan 31 Posted March 25, 2012 Author Share Posted March 25, 2012 Gibb shackle on the halyard, less than 12 months old, let go just after the hoist at the top mark To clarify, "just after" - the head of the kite was at the masthead. No problems with the lifelines during the first stages of hoisting, nor during the various flogs further down the course. Link to post Share on other sites
TimW 1 Posted March 26, 2012 Share Posted March 26, 2012 Gibb shackle on the halyard, less than 12 months old, let go just after the hoist at the top mark To clarify, "just after" - the head of the kite was at the masthead. No problems with the lifelines during the first stages of hoisting, nor during the various flogs further down the course. So On top of the Gibb Clip needs to be a plastic parrel Bead. That stops the snap shackle getting stuck at the head at the wrong angle, i.e. the Plastic Bead hits the top first. Link to post Share on other sites
RushMan 31 Posted March 26, 2012 Author Share Posted March 26, 2012 So no plastic bead means the shackle can get caught at a funny angle and open by itself? Link to post Share on other sites
Murky 1 Posted March 26, 2012 Share Posted March 26, 2012 Gibb shackle on the halyard, less than 12 months old, let go just after the hoist at the top mark To clarify, "just after" - the head of the kite was at the masthead. No problems with the lifelines during the first stages of hoisting, nor during the various flogs further down the course. Alternatively, you're sure the clip is able to close completely? (i.e. fine if the kite has a ring at the head but some of the pressed eyelets are just too bulky to allow those mini-clips to properly close). In those situations, it is either the impact of hitting the sheave, or the kite filling (both of which happen around the same time) that crack it loose. Link to post Share on other sites
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