Guest Posted March 14, 2012 Share Posted March 14, 2012 Where do you get parts for these? Its leaking water back into the engine! Link to post Share on other sites
Grinna 2 Posted March 14, 2012 Share Posted March 14, 2012 Could be a Jabsco pump. Have a look thru the Jabsco website to see if anything looks familiar. http://www.jabscoshop.com/marine/pumps/ ... agesize=24 If it is, Lusty and Blundell should be able to get bits for you. Link to post Share on other sites
Battleship 100 Posted March 14, 2012 Share Posted March 14, 2012 You water pumps have done an excellent job and performed above and beyond the call of duty, I hereby award them with the coveted water pump of the year award Hows that for recognition? If you just want to replace them impeller just whip them out and head down to your local swindlery to see if they can match them up. If the impellers are hard to get or the pump is worn, it might be advisable to replace it with something more common and readily available. Missed the bottom bit about it leaking water into the engine, the seals should be able to be prised out measured and a suitable replacement found at most engineers supplies. Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted March 14, 2012 Share Posted March 14, 2012 Thanks Grinna , Willow, Yes Lusty and Blundel have bits for this NZ made pump that takes Jabsco parts. Great help from Lusty and Blundel and Tomline and Hansen in Gisborne. Now how to get salt water out of the engine!! Not quite coveted by me Willow, it was onboard and when the original pump started mucking up I put this one on and it promtly filled my oil sump with salt water! The weep hole was weeping water so thought it was ok. I think there's a curse on anything mechanical I touch. Link to post Share on other sites
PaulR 3 Posted March 14, 2012 Share Posted March 14, 2012 I'd first undo the top 6 screws and see if there is any info on the inside of the lid. (Sometimes there especially if lid has been reversed in it's life, but also often smoothed away). What's the impeller like? Might be a unique or ideally a common one. What's the other end like? What motor has it come off? That green could be the Mercedes green or Volvo. But then again, I'm no engineer. Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted March 14, 2012 Share Posted March 14, 2012 Isuzu 2ab1 Paul. I'm getting it sorted thanks but was hard to know where to start due to nothing visible written on the device. I've actually got two of the little monsters, one where the cental shaft moves about 3 mm out of true! Seems just needs new seals and bearings then should be as good as new. Link to post Share on other sites
wheels 543 Posted March 14, 2012 Share Posted March 14, 2012 How come water went through the otherside of the weep hole BBay?? Was it blocked? As soon as water comes through that hole, you need to look at servicing the pump. But normally there is a seal on the otherside that protects the bearings beyond that. If water has gone into the engine, it's a wonder the bearings are still intacked. Just drain the engine and go buy some cheap oil (does not have to be diesel oil) then run the engine for 2 mins and then drain again. You could do that twice if you wanted and look to see if the oil is clean of water. Then fill with good Diesel oil and you should be OK. If the oil had gone grey with water, then you may well have a grey soapy gunk stuck up in the tappet cover. If you see that stuff in the oil filler cap, then remove the tappet cover and wipe or wash the stuff out. The water tends to go to the top of the engine due to heat and then it factionates the waxes out of the oil and creates the gunk. Apart from that, the engine should have been kept fairly safe from any rust or other damage by the oil. Link to post Share on other sites
too_tall 15 Posted March 14, 2012 Share Posted March 14, 2012 How come water went through the otherside of the weep hole BBay?? Was it blocked? If the mechanical seal is really stuffed, or just not installed right, so much water will work past it the seal that it will overcome the weep hole, and, unless a "flicker" is installed on the shaft ( self explanatory, but its there to protect the motor bearings ) the water works its way into the motor bearings. Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted March 14, 2012 Share Posted March 14, 2012 The pump above has only been installed a couple of days. I've had the head off the engine and reconditioned so while it was out of action I took the old pump off and found the bearings shot. This pump was stored aboard the vessel when purchased and I thought it had been serviced. It looked good, bearings seemed ok and the impeller was good. The seal turns out to be cactus. Looks like it was not installed properly. Yes the water was coming out the weephole, quite a bit and I thought it needed attention but did not think it would make its way into the engine. Thanks kindly for the advice guys, much appreciated. Link to post Share on other sites
PaulR 3 Posted March 14, 2012 Share Posted March 14, 2012 Don't forget to change the filters as well. Wheels could comment also. Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted March 14, 2012 Share Posted March 14, 2012 Filter...check. I had a stroke of luck. Guy next door with a commercial launch was doing an oil change and he offered me his old oil to flush my engine. Only 200 hours old and enough to do a couple of changes. Link to post Share on other sites
too_tall 15 Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 There is a product you can put in the the crankcase to "rinse" out the gunge. Its made of something which offers modest lubrication properties, but it will mix with both water and oil. I don't know its name but someone may chime in with the name of it. Simply put, you drain oil, change filter. put several liters of this product in, start and run engine AT IDLE with NO LOAD for a minute or two to distribute it well through the engine. Drain, repeat if required, then fill with your normal oil and a new filter again. Works very well, I have used it a couple of times on tractors which have had water get into the oil and it really clears them out very well. On a related note, if your engine is turbocharged, get the turbo oil lines checked to ensure they are not clogged. Would result in rapid destruction of the turbo if its lines are clogged. Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 Thanks TooTall, no turbo on this old thing. Got her going this afternoon with the second hand oil and she's sweet. i'll do another oil change tomorrow then another on the weekend with new oil and filter. I had a severe price shock this arvo when I picked up the impeller pump. Ouch. Cheaper than a ruined engine. Link to post Share on other sites
wheels 543 Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 There are two of us here that would be very interested in how much BBay. PM me or Grinna with the price if you don't want it made public. Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 The bill came to $235. OK not so huge in boat terms but it was the price Lusty and Blundel charged for the seal which was $195, I must have near fainted because the guy here at Hansen and Tomlinsen rang them and got a better price for me....$145 which was really good of Shaun. So 2 new bearings, a circlip and seal and labour. The impeller is ok not needing replacement just yet. My brothers an Hydraulic Fitter says thats a pretty normal price for this type of seal. The pump seems as good as new now so thats one more item ticked of the maintenance list. A big thanks to Hansen and Tomlinsen here in Gisborne, fast , friendly ,reasonable rates and compassionate! Also Lusty and Blundel for having these in stock, great service. Link to post Share on other sites
wheels 543 Posted March 16, 2012 Share Posted March 16, 2012 I assume you mean the carbon seal. Yes they can be expensive. I overhauled a pump similar, but it did not have the Carbon seal. Bearins and other seals came to $50. I got it all from the local Bearing supplier. Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted March 16, 2012 Share Posted March 16, 2012 Fisherman at the harbour mentioned ceramic steel or at least so I thought but through tinitus carbon steel is about right. At the price it must be at least nuclear powered! I'll get the old one and take a photo and post just for the interest. Link to post Share on other sites
too_tall 15 Posted March 16, 2012 Share Posted March 16, 2012 The bill came to $235. OK not so huge in boat terms but it was the price Lusty and Blundel charged for the seal which was $195 I have a multistage water pump here ( 20bar, approx 10m3/hour) and the seal for that costs around $900. The seal for my milk pump in the cowshed is about $800. $195 is not too bad for RRP I don't think. Unfortunately!. Link to post Share on other sites
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