Crazyhorse

Would slow them down!?

I do appreciate your help (getting little from Simrad). It's a standard 2.4gig RF wifi compliant transmitter receiver so connecting to a hotspot on shore is a cert as I have done it via the MSD (evo2) to update firmware so that's a given. I realise it won't work as a wifi repeater without the addition of another wifi router but all I am trying to do is use it to connect to a hotspot using one of two LAN ports on ethernet cable and a web browser on a laptop. I am beginning to think I am trying to configure a space shuttle for launch!! How difficult can this be!?(LOTS!). IT said he's done it so

Discovered (clear as mud) that setting it to AP will lock out menu access on 192.168.0.1 as it turns it into a bloody hotspot! Doesn't mean using IT to access the net, makes it a router. So....reset number 3. 192.168.0.1 now works again (beginning so suspect cheap Chinese arse ethernet cable..brand new by the way.). Logged in under "super" and now access to full options! No idea where to next, nothing on the net to say what settings will put the wifi1 on the net. I know the ssid of the hotspot, channel and password but need to know how you get the unit to run as a hotspot receiver, stand a

Did another reset and now equally strange, it now defaults to 192.168.0.1 but the password on the back of the wifi no longer works but admin/admin does! Another thing I noticed yesterday is that when I reset it with the MFD the mac address came up wrong, the MFD obviously now doesn't know it's there! Can't find out how to change that but happy I now have laptop access to the wifi setup. Luke at Simrad said the last upgrade has a bug and is going to send me the new flash file so I am hoping that will sort whats going on.(Bloody kahawai feeding around the boat. I really should be out in the ding

try Try TRY!? GOT IN! Did a reset and the password on the back of the wifi worked with user name 'admin' but still on IP 192.168.77.1(!!?) Changed the mode to AP and now can't even get a response from it. IPCONFIG shows its still listening on that 77.1 IP but no login screen. Looks like another reset? Has anyone actually done this? The WIFI-1 can connect to a distant hotspot as it does that to access MFD upgrades so using a LAN port and a browser through a ethernet cable should allow access via wifi to another router????

?

Police launch turned up a few years back (middle of the night) and shone their spotty on us when on our mooring off little bucks (thought aliens had arrived!) So they were checking boats then and told us there was a "crew" who were making a living breaking into boats up and down the river. Our boat is (was) a little rough looking at the time but we added to that by letting old line hang over the side, covered the companion way with old sail bags and more rope and generally made her look not worth the effort. No break ins. They can look into portlights and go 'window shopping' so make it look

Spill the G&T.

Thanks but tried those but not a reset. There is a password on the back of the unit 700etc in upper case but user name "admin" or "super" doesn't work. Looks like a reset?

Found it. Used iconfig and up it came but new problem. "USER NAME" which should be 'admin' doesn't work with the password that is on the back of the unit. Tried "super" too, no luck. Any ideas Anyone? ( fogs lifted so off fishing).

Pulling the hair out. Anyone know the IP address for the Navico Gofree WIFI-1? Tried 192.168.0.1 and loads of others but no good. I know the ethernet cable link works as I get a menu when I type in 192.168.77.36 for the MFD file upload download with the MFD is running but CAN NOT get into the units administration. Thanks guys.

Me too. You can also tell them your heart felt desires at: https://www.bionet.nz/contact-us

x 1000,000!

Been there ages but not worth the work? Make a f.ancy gin palace? ( already has the "tit" on the back!).

As IT said then ,mmsi is either wrong or not put in to the MFD. Try going into your alarms and turning it off. The red triangle should go away but fascinating it shows your vessel as a target! Your boat shouldn't even appear on the screen, only a a normal position cursor. only other targets should appear probably as a triangle.

You might want to look at your proximity settings which might be set too high making the MFD register distant targets as being dangerous.

He should buy a lotto ticket.

The launching ceremony...

Remember the old Pye TV sets? Lightly run your fingers on the rabbit ear antenna and there is a very slight tingle. Even though you are not earthed, the fact that it's LIVE,yes they had energised chassis, moving the fingers was enough to change the phase shift to create an exceptionally small voltage potential. It was the norm then to have phase as the common. Quite safe unless you connect yourself the the earth side of a 3 pin socket!

It's in the water...(wondered why the tide level went up a bit..) https://www.stuff.co.nz/business/111105612/michaels-hills-colossal-boat-the-beast-launches-at-foxton-beach

NO?

Yep, separate earth (isolated) alternator. In other words, the engine chassis is isolated from the batteries so the starter motor must have its own earth cable too as will heat and oil senders, all to do with electrolysis in metal boats. Your battery supply will have a heavy duty common (negitive) wire running to the engine body somewhere if its not earth isolated, then it will run to the starter motor direct. This is where you should run the earth wire from your alternator, NOT direct to the engine!! Most engines use the engine body as a common, same as automobiles but some isolate the electr

If the AC is above about 60v depending on the resistance of the "body" concerned, the skin moisture level, salt etc. Holding the wires from your wind turbine (3 phase) will do nothing. At 240v rms you are looking at just a few milliamps of current to meet your maker. True, a circuit (return path) needs to be created. One reason why sparkies will touch mains unprotected gear with one hand, the other behind their back and usually the back of the hand but footware does not necessarily make you safe. At 240v and higher, even a high resistance between the body and earth will allow sufficient curren

240v less dangerous!? Wattage is still going to be the same if you are drawing 50 amps at 13.8v or 2.87 amps at 240v (rms). Dialetric break down is higher at 240v so arcing and the human body allowing current to flow is also much higher not to mention the ocilating current creating fibrillation of the heart. I hear what you are saying in that current equals heat (wattage) but please don't say AC is safer to work with than DC when the DC on most boats is below DC 60v.

All well and good saying put a large frame alternator on as they are heat rated, seen the size of them!? For us on a 2GM20, simply not a viable solution so had to adapt a different mount high current alternator to the Hitachi mount, now works great and using our "oven" remote temp monitor, can see at a glance how hot it gets under load, 47 deg C. Yet to fit it but have a bilge blower I was going to adapt to force air through but not needed now. IT is right, those Hitachi alts are the pits, don't even get to 14v before winding back the output. Great for a starter battery, useless for anything e