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ScottiE

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Everything posted by ScottiE

  1. Was going to use Sikaflex 295 but the window supplier has also suggested SabreBond Structural SMP60 which they now use. Still sand and prime acryllic surface so preparation is no different.
  2. Well there ha go - thanks Rigger - never got round to go that far into that document. I guess that stuff is really only relevant to the manufacturers and suppliers. Wheels - my apologies for having doubted you!
  3. ABYC? Yeh couldn't read a copy of that - think you have to pay for it!
  4. Wheels, I don't believe your comments on "correct white lights". There's nothing in any regs that I could find and I did a bit of research in the winter looking for "the ideal white light colour". I do understand your sentiment however. Also if you look at any light display at the swindlerys you will find a multitude of white colours. The closest criteria covering navigation lights is the vis distance and as far a I interpret them they don't actually apply to anchor lights. Which is why Jon's suggestion is also valid. My kids got one each for Xmas last year and so they'll be repurposed -
  5. "but mister maritime rule investigator - we were driving a launch looking through a rain-sodden windscreen on a dark night peering around for buoys, nav lights and other vessels . . . when we hit him side on - how were we to know he had two anchor lights burning" :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:
  6. Ewwww - marmite! I'm sure a vegemite jar will be better - it is in every other respect! Cheers everyone - certainly some 'food' for thought (oh dear . . .)
  7. Yeh that's the way I've been thinking as well. Can then also use the same light as an anchor light suspended on a halyard. My problem with this is that I'd like to have it powered off the houe batt rather than "portable". That means a plug inside a pod compartment. Okay with that - just the wear and tear on the cable is what worries me. So maybe I'm just making a bigger problem than I need to and should stick to a portable light. The railblaza light fits the bill nicely and then I just need 12DC battery charger for the AAA's (or a box of batteries!)
  8. and that's the one thing that has had me a-pondering! Cheers AC I shall ponder a little more.
  9. yes BK = Bad Kitty. The cool thing about Kisis bimini is that it carries the main sheet (you can just make it out). Hence the recommendation of a composites engineer. Seems to me that the main sheet on BP could also do the same.
  10. Talk to BK's better half. Nina did a great job on Krisis. (Sure I've just mentioned this somewhere)
  11. yeh I'm with you KM I say its worth not having! But I guess its a bit different if you're a live aboard. My wife is hoping that I'll get reaquainted with her when the boat goes back in!
  12. Cheers again rigger - your comments are most def appreciated.
  13. just advise them that sanding the bottom of your boat is not infact work but a pleasurable hobbie activity that has been enjoyed by countless generations before - clearly!
  14. cheers Rigger - yup that's the idea. I thought about a battery powered light but then you've got to deal with battery charging each day but I guess that's not a biggie. I do have the perfect place to do this on the mast as well trying to keep things simple - don't have anything that needs removable bats on board at the moment which seems to be what most portable anchor lights use.
  15. Yeh - happy that it's "within the rules", just wanted a sanity check. Not the "rules" are all that sane - the YNZ regs make it mandatory that no sector light should be fitted to a rotating mast.
  16. tryig to tidy up my running light set up (actually don't have a steaming or mast head anchor light) Given the boat is under 12m it is acceptable to combine the steaming and stern light as an allround light. Seems to me then that the simplest retrofit is a single allround white light at masthead with a seperate stern light when under sail. Still three circuts (p/s running lights / stern light / mast head light) but has the advantage of only one light aloft a rotating mast, well clear of interferring with jib etc. Any good reasons why I shouldn't do this? The only things I can think o
  17. I'm thinking there was a lack of warning signs that led to that accident!
  18. Nice! If you're going to do a hard Bimini Put the main sheet up there on a curved track a as well! Have a chat with BK, Mrs BK eats that sort of design work up for breakfast I'm told. Did a similar thing on Krisis a while back now and cookie still seems petty happy about it.
  19. Which now reminds me of something. My 3yo managd to bang his head on a newly installed sign on a track next to our place. Perhaps we need another sign to warn 3yo's not to walk into . . . never mind. The irony is that the sign has been installed on a track that the council has seen fit to 'permanently close' (what ever that means on a coastal stretch) because they can't be arsed maintaining and repairing it. So I guess I'm suggesting a hazard warning sign, warning of the hazard warning sign hazard beyond another hazard warning sign?
  20. Aft deck done and ready for the painters when they get in on Monday morning. What a great place to work!
  21. Any recommend a good manufacturer / repairer. Need to look at options for dealing with one of my damaged windows.
  22. Think KM is your man for that - they used to race a trail-able GBE back in the days of square wheels! rushman - I think you are bang on the money - especially with Ferrari tramps - but I think they do need to be "squarish to be really effective". You get the added advantage of the yarn span being 40% longer as well which will give them a little more give. They'll cost more though as the build labour would go up significantly (bill rubs his hands again). They'll look a bit kooky too but on a Race boat I don't think that's an issue
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