PaulR

1. Could still be dirt in fuel tank, any filter between tank and engine and supply lines if you did not clean the tank out BEFORE adding fresh 10L of diesel. 2. Air Filter. Is it clogged? Replace anyway. A dirty or blocked (ant nests + spiders etc) air filter reduces the amount of "air" being sucked into your motor. Diesels will only speed up if they can have lots of Fuel + lots of air. Possibly that is why most diesel manuals suggest altering the revs at specific intervals rather than run continously at the one speed, but on yachts?? the object is to sailing and switch off the motor

Perhaps it could be the fuel After 3 years of being unused, Cleaning the tank and fuel lines out would be a first step. There was a lot of diesel bug about a few years ago, probably still around, but I'm not an engineer. Could be cheaper to get an expert in first. I would suggest you change fuel if not all filters first. Does the first filter have a glass bowl so you can see moisture / crap the filter has stopped How about trying a clean / new 10L jerry can of FRESH fuel and just suck "new" fuel into your motor. Let the return stay to existing tank. Then clean out main fuel tank

All of which supports the theory that testing one's self, boat and crew work is reliant upon building up from sailing in heavy conditions in harbour, then gulf, then offshore first before ocean crossings. Yes, a lot seemed to be "hyped" for TV3 and/or as a totally inexperienced newby would see things. Comments about VHF no doubt were for the "general" boating audience whereas anybody going offshore needs better equipment. 3 hours out from Auckland leaves one still in the Hauraki Gulf which can develop quite a slop and steep ones e.g. around Flat Rock in past Simrad's in much heavier co

Went to North Head last last night and escorted Pelagian up the harbour to finish at 2330. Helped fold all headsails and tidy boat as the two boys had had a great welcome from about 40 family & friends and enjoying a few rums WELL DONE and they survived

They come in sets and cost $$$$$$$$ Another useful set occasionally, are short / stubby ring+open spanners. Likewise a socket set with hollow sockets so they can be used on threaded rod, no matter how long, where as normal sockets have the arm / extension etc fitted into the end of the socket. With hollow sockets, the wrench arm fits around the socket. http://www.maintechmro.com/holo-12pc-go-thru-socket-set-1-2-drive-mro.html

Now if the course was W/L with all marks to say PORT, should the best design be a left handed or right handed proa Given the RRS, if all marks were to be passed on starboard, would the opposite apply Why would it knot

Well Done bbay

What's wrong with His & Her hulls

And some large yachts 50+ft centerboarders can also sit happily without damaging rudder, prop etc. on a beach / dry out, all be it at an angle for 12 hours and then one can change angles!! Much better than a bilge keeler for some.

Comfort, comfort and even more comfort. If you want to live aboard, then sitting in a comfortable seat is really important. Many a yacht has simple settee seating. Fine for a weekend, week or a month but if it is your home, then having a proper armchair could be a welcome resting place for your tired body. One (East american?) yacht was built around a man's favourite chair, one that he could relax in, swivelled, tiltted and inclined. Much like a laxyboy chair. Living on one yacht, we had a full length couch with curved end that could seat 6 to 8 easily. Sailing was often then like

Try one of your (or a borrowed) smaller latter headsails on your furler. If flatter, you would see what may happen easily, before attacking your sails.