PaulR

Do 6 x Supertankers get their own division and prizes??

Another consideration would be to use a snatch block or snap shackle so that the sheet / barber hauler can be led from OUTSIDE the lifelines by using your alloy toe rail. This would be a better solution when reaching as it would open the slot between mainsail and headsail wider. Perhaps using two barber haulers would make move the sheet outboard a lot easier and safer for solo sailors.

Sorry can't help but the Harbourmaster or should that be "Harbour-mistresses" are getting so much younger these days

Simplicity is good, but everything depends upon the loads involved on nice days and the abuse expected in stormy weather. Yours looks fine.

On the S34, I used a small loop of spectra around the car to hold the double block to the car. The advantages were it was cheap, easy to replace but more importantly it transferred the "PULLING LOAD" point to the REAR of the whole car, avoiding the need to drill holes or fit saddles etc that could "Pull Out", wear or simply break. Effectively I was "pushing" the car forward as the loop transferred the load to the aft side of the car.. I like the idea of the continuous loop and the cable tie to keep the "Drop down" pin in the UP position. Our spectra loop has lasted over 6 years n

To really enjoy cruising I would suggest a highly paid cook/chefette will help the relaxing a lot. As I don't enjoy cooking, this works for me!! (However I have done a lot of dish washing to compensate and reward the chef!

Tradition states that there are 3 things you don't need: Wheel barrow, umbrella and a naval officer!! From UK Services Compo food packs, the boiled sweets packed inside a tin stay good for a long, long time until open when they immediately vanish!! The tins of creamed rice were prized as they can be eaten cold straight from the tin in the tropics or warmed up for colder nights or in higher latitudes. Good comfort food that seems to settle many stomachs!!

8 things to go wrong covers the major points of the compass as well as the: Portside, Starboard side, topside, inside, outside, lee side, weather side and "besides . . ."

one with central heating, without leaks and with adequate rum!!

I always was told there are only 2 REAL rules when sailing: 1. One hand for yourself and one for the boat, IN THAT ORDER! 2. Keep a weather eye peeled. Later I added to rule 2, "& think of the 8 things that can go wrong and how to avoid them". Seems to cover most situations, IMHO.

Having just read this, I checked my PM mailbox. The new format seems to have remembered / reloaded all my old PMs, some going back to 2007, about 4 or 5 pages , So I've just deleted them all under the "new Format now" so start again. If anyting was more than 2 sleeps ago and is not on the what-I-should-of dealt-with-yesterday list then its probable safe to delete as not currently critical

1. Could still be dirt in fuel tank, any filter between tank and engine and supply lines if you did not clean the tank out BEFORE adding fresh 10L of diesel. 2. Air Filter. Is it clogged? Replace anyway. A dirty or blocked (ant nests + spiders etc) air filter reduces the amount of "air" being sucked into your motor. Diesels will only speed up if they can have lots of Fuel + lots of air. Possibly that is why most diesel manuals suggest altering the revs at specific intervals rather than run continously at the one speed, but on yachts?? the object is to sailing and switch off the motor

Perhaps it could be the fuel After 3 years of being unused, Cleaning the tank and fuel lines out would be a first step. There was a lot of diesel bug about a few years ago, probably still around, but I'm not an engineer. Could be cheaper to get an expert in first. I would suggest you change fuel if not all filters first. Does the first filter have a glass bowl so you can see moisture / crap the filter has stopped How about trying a clean / new 10L jerry can of FRESH fuel and just suck "new" fuel into your motor. Let the return stay to existing tank. Then clean out main fuel tank

All of which supports the theory that testing one's self, boat and crew work is reliant upon building up from sailing in heavy conditions in harbour, then gulf, then offshore first before ocean crossings. Yes, a lot seemed to be "hyped" for TV3 and/or as a totally inexperienced newby would see things. Comments about VHF no doubt were for the "general" boating audience whereas anybody going offshore needs better equipment. 3 hours out from Auckland leaves one still in the Hauraki Gulf which can develop quite a slop and steep ones e.g. around Flat Rock in past Simrad's in much heavier co

Went to North Head last last night and escorted Pelagian up the harbour to finish at 2330. Helped fold all headsails and tidy boat as the two boys had had a great welcome from about 40 family & friends and enjoying a few rums WELL DONE and they survived

They come in sets and cost $$$$$$$$ Another useful set occasionally, are short / stubby ring+open spanners. Likewise a socket set with hollow sockets so they can be used on threaded rod, no matter how long, where as normal sockets have the arm / extension etc fitted into the end of the socket. With hollow sockets, the wrench arm fits around the socket. http://www.maintechmro.com/holo-12pc-go-thru-socket-set-1-2-drive-mro.html

Now if the course was W/L with all marks to say PORT, should the best design be a left handed or right handed proa Given the RRS, if all marks were to be passed on starboard, would the opposite apply Why would it knot

It's Sunday Morning . . . and KM's update is expected . . . or has he knot adjusted his clocks

AND . . . antifoul one side today whilst the sun shines

I see nobody has really answered some of the basic questions. 1). Get the Insurance Company OK to do the test FIRST. 2). Ask them along and suggest they supply the rum. 3). Remove all valuables, instruction books, ships papers etc 4). Review the video above. I would suggest putting in the wash boards and closing all hatches would be useful. 5). Look at your engine and for inboards, taping the oil dipstick to stay in place is helpful. Some engines may prefer to have been hauled over the OTHER WAY 6). Remove any spare oil, cooking and suntanning as well to reduce the m

Well Done bbay

There are several other important factors. For a small unit, IMHO one with an INTERNAL aerial is better, less wiring (only needs 12V) for basic / medium usage. Less to go wrong, especially if mounted on pushpit and you have a collision whilst racing. Some software is better than others. It depends what features are important to your needs. Personally I prefer a constantly updated bearing to the next mark/waypoint rather than some systems that require you to manually reset the bearing. What good is a bearing 10 minutes ago? Yachts NEVER go in a straight line, even when I'm not

Spec sheet looks good. Can only guess the N version is for navigating, F for Fishing and NF has both features. It all depends upon your intended use and budget. However a small screen on a dark wet rainy night is hard to read because the rain drops are so BIG relative to a small screen. We have a 5 inch screen Seiwa Seahorse.

What's wrong with His & Her hulls

And some large yachts 50+ft centerboarders can also sit happily without damaging rudder, prop etc. on a beach / dry out, all be it at an angle for 12 hours and then one can change angles!! Much better than a bilge keeler for some.