Beccara

Ok at the risk of sounding completely stupid there's been some talk in the office today as to what is wet rot and what is wet wood. What are some of the criteria/major differences according to you all? One of our installer guys seems to think there isn't any difference and once a bit of wood is soaked in water it's in effect rotten and needs to be cut out. I'm working under a basic idea that rot is fungal in nature and turns the wood to a mush like consistency you can pick out with your fingernails

Thanks guys, If you're ever in Whangarei i owe you a drink. Router could work the area well so i got a routing guide for the Dremel, It's routed out 1/4" and i'm just waiting on the everdure to try. Next up is ID the wood and make the fillet as per above. It looks quite scary a few hours ago but now it's as you say dead easy

Hey all, Was after some advice, just found a crack in the glass on the edge of our boat after winter, waters got in and caused some rot/soft wet wood which i've just got out with the dremel, It's about 6" long, 1-1.5" wide an around 3/4" deep in places, Whats the best way to repair this fairly quick? I was thinking epifill over everdure but wondered if this was the best thing given it's wood and flexing and what not Cheers

If you really want to be anal about it then always compare multiple sets of data and try to work out "conflict" zones where 2 or more sets of data disagree about a hazard. The navionics webapp with sonar charts offer a great improvement in resolution but the data being "user submitted" can/will be off in places, so when compared with the LINZ charts you can get a good idea on where this may/may not be right and should let you know where you really can't cut corners

Didn't wheels make something to do this recently?

Best thing we did was goto our showing in our house and turn the shower on. Run it to the temp you like and the lowest pressure/flow rate you'd like and then time how long to fill a 10l bucket. If you have a meat thermometer measure the temp rise and make sure it's within the 25-30deg rise the unit spec's out

Saying he's been found now

Here's hoping he's ok

Yeah was a little tongue in cheek there, That doesn't even look load rated - Just shitty commercial grade crap

I bet the chain would give before that does!

The rope we have is from Hampidjan, I kinda remember some of the crap that went down with the name a while ago At the moment I've seen a few area where something loose nearby has brushed for an hour in the wind or so and I've seen these tiny wiff's off the rope. I'll get a picture soon. Didn't think about leather strips as I thought anything lose/not glued would potentially chaff internally with the rope but sounds like a good idea

Hi All, I've got a Dynice Dux rig that we installed last year and I've seen a few places now after staring at it for a while where I see chaff risk and also where a few things need to be tied around it. My first instinct to protect it is to whip out the electrical tape and give it a few turns around the various sections but I thought I'd ask here first and see if anyone knows of a better product to use that will adhere to rope well and give good protection Cheers

Its interesting the support for foam, I was under the impression that it wasn't suitble for electrical

Just please,please,please remember with inert gas like halon and co2 dont use them in a confined space if you can't get out/be aware that after you use them you should get the hell out of the area. Lethal atmospheres in confined spaces is a very dangerous mix

Whatever you buy, buy an extra 2 - One for when the sumbitch relights and one as a practice aid!

Last time i looked at it there was a pretty big cost involved, The master and switch module was around $4k NZD landed, If it's dropped in price then it's a huge wiring savior

Interesting bit from EV land: "As evidence of a growing confidence in the 30 kWh battery’s cell chemistry (and the fact it will now take less battery cycles to go further), Nissan warrants battery loss below 9 bars of capacity (70%), for the first 8 years or 100,000 miles (160,000 km) in the US and in Europe" I wonder what exact chem they are using, That are giving a 8 year 75% capacity remaining warranty

Well this weekend the head needing sorting. There's been a.... smell for a while and i suspected the bowl seal to the base had a pinched o-ring so after much toilet ducking the whole thing had to be taken apart and sure enough the o-ring was pinched and a small 'pool' had formed behind it near the motor. Whilst i had it apart i thought it good to give it a good cleaning and some 4 hours later everything was working and i had managed to maintain my composure during the whole event. Not a major project but a project none the less

Nicely said Wheels, LI chemistry do have a natural wanting to be fire however they can last quite some time. LiFePo4 should be 80%+ capacity after 4 years. I think i've seen some long life study somewhere, i'll dig it out

Maxxon are pretty good, Old one lasted 10 years before the glue went, new one seems just as tough

2 days of struggling to get our new instrument plate to the top of the mast has resulted in nothing but jammed cables in the mast Not a cherry picker in town that can reach and climbing up leaves us too short to work on the top. About the only thing that went well is the new hull lashing went on perfect the first time

I'm giving serious consideration to overseas registration on our boat and just getting a Cat 1 inspection done anyway because of the fee hikes

Also, Wonder what the rules are on discharge of urine since it's sterile and disposal of the compost at a marina - Clearly the composted waste can't go in the pump out area

Hmmm, Any idea on the price NZD? Could be worth a try if it's not $1500+

Yeah i think so but for the other half and the kid it needs to be as simple as a single button press like the normal loo at home. The pee/poop split shoot and augur along with the coffee filter inserts will be missed at 2am. If those could be solved then I'd be in like flynn but for now it's looking like tank transfer and a trip to the pump out