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My copper coat has lasted 7 years, and now its stuffed. Currently deciding if we should re-apply, or go back to conventional AF. If anyone knows of a Unicorn AF, please let me know.

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19 hours ago, Black Panther said:

I  will give it a vigorous rub with a coarse scotch brite pad. Instructions say don't sand.

Wow really? I had read comments of people saying light sanding was required once per year to expose new copper particles.
I still don't see the point in an Anti-foul that needs hand cleaning during the season and sanding each year.
Remember me talking about Hemples having a commercial slippery coating ? Well they are now selling it in smaller quantities for the pleasure craft market.
I am surprised at how little it takes to coat a Hull.
I can't say if it works as I have never used it.
If you look among the vids, you will also come across one that they try 3 options. Copper coat, not sure of the 3rd and Silic one. Have not had time to view vid yet.


 

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Hi Wheels, do you have any more details on that Hempels slippery coat?

I've put some silikone wrap on my prop shaft, so far it is the cleanest part of the boat by a country mile.

We have never sanded our CC. Gave it a burnish this summer, didn't appear to make any difference at all. As far as I can tell, all of the copper has oxidised, and it doesn't really matter how much you burnish / sand. The remaining substrate is gold for sh*t to grow on though.

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8 hours ago, wheels said:

still don't see the point in an Anti-foul that needs hand cleaning during the season and sanding each year.

I'm not aware of any product that doesn't need cleaning. The no sanding was told to me by the manufacturer. 

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22 hours ago, Fish said:

Hi Wheels, do you have any more details on that Hempels slippery coat?

No sorry. The owner for NZ that I knew has sold the buiseness to Hemples themselves. So you need to contact them.
I believe that the information on it says the hull needs to do 8kts to clean itself. So anyone slower than that is likely going to have to wipe it every now and then.
 

 

14 hours ago, Black Panther said:

I'm not aware of any product that doesn't need cleaning. The no sanding was told to me by the manufacturer. 

 

14 hours ago, Black Panther said:

I'm not aware of any product that doesn't need cleaning.

I am aware that you are in a high growth area. So your milage is less than most I guess.

But self erroding antifouls should remain clean for 12months. But need 12monthly replacement of course. These constantly fizz the surface away leaving a fresh clean surface. They are also the most expoensive in normal AF paints.
 

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1 hour ago, wheels said:

No sorry. The owner for NZ that I knew has sold the buiseness to Hemples themselves. So you need to contact them.
I believe that the information on it says the hull needs to do 8kts to clean itself. So anyone slower than that is likely going to have to wipe it every now 

But self erroding antifouls should remain clean for 12months. But need 12monthly replacement of course. These constantly fizz the surface away leaving a fresh clean surface. They are also the most expoensive in normal AF paints.
 

Does anyone out there  find this to be the case? 

Even if true there's no way I would haul and paint every 12 months. 

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The marketing gumpf indicates self erroding AF's can last around 2 years (22-26 months). The million dollar question is how that lasts in practice.

The river is very clearly a high growth area, this year is phenomenal. I spoke to Altex's technical support, and their rep, and paradoxially, the steered me away from their top shelf, latest tech AF that costs $600 / 4 l tin, and said that straight #5, or the commercial equivalent, Sea Barrier 3000, would be best, at about $380 / 10 l tin. Turns out it will cost me more to haul out, even at the club, than that AF. If I could get 18 months out of it, without any other maintenance, I'd be happy.

These silicone things, we don't go fast enough for them. But its not clear to me why they can't make a 2 pot expoxy type product that includes a non-leaching biocide. They are marketing this stuff as biocide free. I just want something that works. And I'm happy to pay top dollar if it actually works, and I have a maintenance free hull for a defined period of time. Copper Coat is not maintenance free, it is just haul out free.

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16 minutes ago, Fish said:

I just want something that works. And I'm happy to pay top dollar if it actually works, and I have a maintenance free hull for a defined period of time.

That's what we all want, guess what... you need to clean your hull no matter what, more in the summer.

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6 minutes ago, BOIGuy said:

That's what we all want, guess what... you need to clean your hull no matter what, more in the summer.

Thanks for your help... facepalm.

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12 minutes ago, BOIGuy said:

Use the cheap stuff, take the money you save and spend it on hauling out for a clean, swim in the summer, you will still be better off.

That is the conclusion I am coming to. I've got some scuba gear, so can clean in the water fine, when that is permitted by various BS plans and rules of course...

I still like to keep an eye out on the technical advances in AF's. Everyone wants a unicorn AF. Someone will make one sooner or later.

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3 hours ago, armchairadmiral said:

Hi Fish...would you pse elaborate on silicon wrap on your  prop shaft...thx

Yes, because we have CC we don't haul out. The prop speed has failed on the prop and shaft, we can't re-apply prop speed between tides. I give the prop a spin regularly which keeps it largely free of barnicles etc, but I've been getting oyster build up on the shaft around the cutlass bearing, which I think blocks fluid flow and makes the bearing fail early. I've started diving on it to keep it in check.

So I phoned the guys at NZMwraps or what ever - silikote agents, and they posted me a sample of the stuff. They'd never tried it on a shaft either. A bit of the vinyl wrap. We put it on the shaft when drying out between tides to sort the CC. One piece fell off. It was the first one we did. The second piece is still on, and working great (both applied at teh same time, either side of the anode). You have to clean the shaft with some solvent, and then very carefully line up the join line and cut along it. A good flush join line appears to be the trick, avoids any corners sitting up that make it come off when the prop is rotating.

Nice and smooth and slippery. The boat doesn't regularly exceed 8 knts, so I doubt its a viable solution for the hull, but the shaft spinning, the shear stress is just fine for flicking off the growth. Haven't tried any on the prop, I doubt that would work, but it is a good solution for the shaft. And didn't cost anything. No harm in trying kind of thing.

Edit: these guys

http://www.nzmps.co.nz/boat-wraps-vinyl-wraps/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwo-aCBhC-ARIsAAkNQiuiCoH_8S4nixZbhzXOeulcFsIMX9AWnNVg5Cro6AiGTGH9pYQUjwgaAtthEALw_wcB

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The new owner of my boat has just recieved a horrible shock from the local Port Marlborough Travel lift. The told him the cost of lifting out the Boat was $600 and that if they had to drop, adjust and relift, they wou;ld charge him another $400. So total cost could be $1000. That is daylight robbery.
So he asked around for a diver and got told off. Apparently the Port Company have said that you cannot clean your boat in the water anymore.


 

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19 hours ago, Black Panther said:

Does anyone out there  find this to be the case? 

To which comment David? The self cleaning or the 8kts comment

Antifoul issues are going to become more and more a problem as the more of the working ingredients get phased out and greater restrictions of what can be done in the water are imposed.

 

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