tuffyluffy 76 Posted July 14, 2014 Share Posted July 14, 2014 Yeah Tuffy, the "rebuild" is often just new brushes!!! Actually, it was a new solenoid, and then the whole engine was rebuilt due to the absent owner over cranking the engine, filling the bores with salt water and then leaving it for 4 months. Not my finest effort Link to post Share on other sites
erice 732 Posted July 14, 2014 Share Posted July 14, 2014 another good thing about carrying spare brushes is that brushes that are too big can often be filed down to the right size quite easily so 1 pair of big brushes can sometimes be the emergency replacement for other, if you have files and possibly a soldering iron and solder, (if the leads need shortening or swapping) Link to post Share on other sites
SthnJeff 18 Posted July 14, 2014 Author Share Posted July 14, 2014 Voltage reading just above 12v at rest and while the key turned reading pretty similar. I have taken the Dynastart off and will have a look at the brushes tonight, being the least expensive option! The Unit is showing signs of surface corrosion (I have previously cleaned all external wire connection points), so it will be good to give it a bit of a spit and polish and a lick of paint anyway. I guess if the brushes are not the problem it will be off to the Auto Sparky I go! Thanks for all the tips. Appreciate it. Link to post Share on other sites
erice 732 Posted July 14, 2014 Share Posted July 14, 2014 likely to be a lot of dust in there, blow it out with compressed air if possible sometimes brushes wear all the way to copper pigtail at the end of the brush, other times the pigtail hangs up in the brush holder stopping the final part of the brush from contacting the commutator also try and check the condition of the commutator, it can short out with too much brush dust, so give it a blow and clean too if possible if the brushes are nice and long, and having no problems touching the commutator, the problem can be the commutator has worn down so much that the copper segments are flush with the mica separators in that case an autolec may be able to undercut them I have one that was giving me trouble. It would not turn unless I spun it by hand with no load on it. I could not find another one and decided to take the plunge and open mine up. It is really not too complex inside. The armature was filthy. I tore it apart, soaked the whole thing in solvent and scrub brushed off all the parts. Finally, I repacked the bearings with grease, cleaned off the brushes and put it back together. It works great now. Rod http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-main ... ement.html Link to post Share on other sites
sow1ld 2 Posted July 14, 2014 Share Posted July 14, 2014 The main issue I had trying to find the fault was when i was tied up in the berth the dam thing would start everytime. it was only when I would go for a sail id have trouble getting it started because during the sail the broken contact in the switch would open enough to break the full voltage getting to the starter. It ws a hit and miss affair the was hard to replicate at the dock Link to post Share on other sites
Island Time 1,239 Posted July 14, 2014 Share Posted July 14, 2014 Yep, fair enough. Movement can add additional problems! Intermittent stuff (as brush problems often are to begin with) can make diagnostics more difficult! Link to post Share on other sites
sow1ld 2 Posted July 14, 2014 Share Posted July 14, 2014 It was so frustrating and the time u needed the dam thing to start was the time u really needed it to start! Link to post Share on other sites
SthnJeff 18 Posted August 26, 2014 Author Share Posted August 26, 2014 All done now. New brushes and a good clean and is now running perfectly. Happy days Link to post Share on other sites
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