bazzathemammoth 37 Posted February 12, 2017 Share Posted February 12, 2017 Hey all We are about to repaint Pork chop's deck and have been sussing out a few different products. I'm pretty keen on the Altex 3-2-1 brushing 2 pot polyurethane. Have any of you used this? What about the whole rolling and tipping process? Any other paints we should be considering? Cheers! http://www.burnsco.co.nz/shop/boating/paint-maintenance/top-coat-varnish-teak-oil/altex-elite-321-brushing-topcoat Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MarkMT 68 Posted February 12, 2017 Share Posted February 12, 2017 Related to a question I posed in an earlier thread, can I ask what you're going over the top of? Is it an existing painted surface, or gelcoat? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bazzathemammoth 37 Posted February 12, 2017 Author Share Posted February 12, 2017 I have been advised to seal the deck with epoxy barrier undercoat after sanding it back and filling any cracks/ fixing any damage. http://www.burnsco.co.nz/shop/boating/paint-maintenance/primer-undercoat/altex-epoxy-barrier-undercoat Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest 000 Posted February 12, 2017 Share Posted February 12, 2017 I used the Altex product to repaint the H28's topsides three years ago. Very pleased with the finished result and still looking good. I found the product easy to use provided that you follow a few basic guidelines. Firstly, use a Ford Cup to ensure you get the mixed paint to the right consistency for rolling. Secondly, paint in the shade and preferably not over 20-22°C. I applied the paint using a little 6" roller, and you will have to be careful to get the right solvent resistant sleeve. The ones you buy from Bunnings or Mitre 10 will fall to bits pretty quickly. I didn't tip off but if you do then you need a good quality brush, called a lintzer, I think. Hope this helps. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wheels 543 Posted February 12, 2017 Share Posted February 12, 2017 You can roll and tip all the Urathane top coats, but the "Brushable" is formulated to be the right viscosity for this technique and it has a slightly better character for flow and a slightly longer tack off time.A good Brush is essential. I just go for one that has a very nice soft/fine tip.Roll on evenly and not too large an area at a time. Don't try rolling the paint "out" to cover the area, put it on to cover well, but not too thick that it runs of course. Rolling is for two reasons. It gets the paint on fast and t get that paint on evenly. When brushing, use a vertical stroke, not horizontal and just use the tip very lightly. You are not brushing the paint out over the area, you are simply smoothing the surface, removing the little air bubbles etc. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GregW 28 Posted February 15, 2017 Share Posted February 15, 2017 I used the standard Altex two pack applied with a foam bullet roller over fresh No.3 Epoxy Primer. Just needs to be thinned down a fair bit. I didn't tip off with a brush. Pretty happy with the finish - and the paint, would certainly use it again. If you are doing a deck then presumably you'll be adding some non-skid as well so the quality of the initial finish may not be that important. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ScottiE 174 Posted February 15, 2017 Share Posted February 15, 2017 did you paint on a horizontal surface, vertical surface, or both? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
raz88 96 Posted February 15, 2017 Share Posted February 15, 2017 Km is what you're playing with available to us mere retail buying people? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
white tornado 1 Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 Bazza. one thing about Altex (and probably most other paint companies) is that the price of marine labelled paint is a lot more than the virtually identical product sold for industrial use. In the case of Altex, the industrial paint name is E-line 379. My boat is painted with that, very good results. Also, as a Tauranga resident, if you go to the factory shop, out the back, they have a pile of mis tinted paint, which is seriously cheap. There is a very good chance that there will be a colour that you want. Most of my boat is done with that stuff, and it has saved me hundreds. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
raz88 96 Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 Great to know. I'd love to get my hands on some if it's as good as it sounds, do let us know once you have details of where it's sold. I had been told etnz were using durapox... guess it has urethane over the top? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wheels 543 Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 Be careful, reallllly careful of epoxy if you are starting to getting sensitised. It goes from a little to a full on reaction real quick and then you can't go near the stuff. Your eyes will often puff up real bad when it starts.For general info for those reading,Make sure you use disposable gloves and even those disposable overalls are a good idea. I have found the latex gloves a pain as they tear easily. The Blue neoprene can be better and will protect against Solvents slightly better, but the cheap Vinyl gloves seem to work really well for toughness.NEVER EVER do what some do and use a bare finger to wipe Filler or Glue.NEVER EVER, use thinners/Solvents to wash epoxy off your hands. It washes the protective oils out of your skin and the Amine from the Epoxy soaks in...along with the solvent. There are now some cloth wipes made especially for removing Epoxy from your hands and well worth keeping a pack on hand. Also keep a bottle of White Vinegar handy with some cleaning clothes. Use neat. It breaks Epoxy down and all you have to worry about is smelling a little vinegary. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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