Shore power connections

[wheels 543]

Has anyone got anywhere with anyone on this yet???

I sent an Email to Port Marlborough and got the normal response and a brochure was sent to me published by the NZ Marina Operators association stating all these conditions required. So I think someone with some Eletrcial authority, maybe "Mr Vector" that commented in Emails behind the scene, needs to look into this on our behalf. Otherwise nothing is going to happen we will all roll over and trust me, the expenses to us are going to be astronomical.

[Farrari 4]

The Farr1020 association emailed out a copy of this email that may be useful.

 

From: Russell Mathieson

Sent: Monday, 4 October 2010 17:52

To:XXXXXX

Cc: infowesthaven

Subject: RE: Feedback for electrical requirements

 

Thanks for your email XXXXXX

 

As you will appreciate, the noise about the new Electricity (Safety) Regulations 2010 is not a uniquely Westhaven phenomenon and boat owners will by now be facing compliance issues at every marina in the country.

 

While the Standards have been around since 2008, under the new regs there are now very clear legal requirements imposed on marina operators. One such requirement is that a marina operator "must verify that the connectable installation in a pleasure vessel has a current Warrant of Electrical Fitness before permitting a connection for the supply of electricity". Our collective attention was initially grabbed by the legal advice we received that any marina operator is now liable for a fine of up to $10,000 for each instance where there has been a failure to verify.

 

Likewise, an installer who fails to ensure a connectable installation in a pleasure vessel complies with AS/NZS 3000 and AS/NZS 3004.2 commits an A grade offence which attracts a $10,000 fine for an individual and $50,000 for a company.

 

There has been considerable discussion within the industry on how these standards are to be interpreted in light of the new regs. The question is confused somewhat by the fact that some older marinas still have 10A supplies at their service pillars, whereas the standards specify 16A as a minimum. There are also minimum requirements imposed on marina operators in terms of what we are required to communicate to marina users. Unfortunately these are not exactly crystal-clear in their interpretation so we have been working with a number of electricians, electrical inspectors and service agents to as far as possible come up with a standard solution.

 

Westhaven's requirements are that if a boat has an on-board electrical reticulation system (connectable installation) the vessel must have a current EWOF before plugging in to the marina supply and the electrical supply lead must be suitably rated, tested and tagged.

 

For boats with no on-board system, the old practice of connecting a male 16A round pin plug to a standard extension lead is no longer legal. Minimum requirements now only allow for a suitably rated (16A or 32A) cord connection set supplying an appliance inlet or alternatively a permanently wired connection to the vessel.

 

We cannot now legally accept any extension lead that is not 16A rated (i.e. no domestic leads are acceptable)

 

Furthermore, we cannot accept any extension lead fitted with a 16A round pin plug at the supply end but with only a 10A flat pin cord connector at the other.

 

We have interpreted the minimum requirement for extension leads as follows:

 

- leads must be heavy duty (1.5mm) 16A rated

- there must be a 10A circuit breaker between the 16A marina supply and the 10A outlet.

- the 10A (flat pin) outlet must also be sufficiently IP rated (minimum IP45 but higher is better)

- the connection set requires an EWOF

- the lead must be tested and tagged

- appliances must be tested and tagged

 

These requirements are being met with proprietary systems using suitably IP rated MCB & 10A outlet(s) which a number of electrical suppliers already have available, typically IP67 rated, such as the e.g. pictured.

 

We do not require the cord extension set to be fixed to the vessel, i.e., it can be removed when not required and so not affect class requirements or become a nuisance, etc.

 

Cord extension sets that are permanently fixed to the vessel will, in our view, require that the vessel have an EWOF.

 

Westhaven has sample cord extension sets (such as that pictured) available for short-term loan at the marina office.

 

For situations where temporary attended supply is required for a portable or hand-held appliance, e.g. for electric drill or vacuum cleaner (these are not classed as "connectable installations") it is fair to say that we are still receiving conflicting advice. We have yet to determine the least onerous solution for temporary connections while still complying with the combined requirements of the standards and regs.

 

 

Regards

 

 

Russell Mathieson

Manager - Marinas

Westhaven | Viaduct Harbour | The Landing

137 Westhaven Drive

Auckland, New Zealand

DDI: +64 9 360 5871

Fax: +64 9 360 5880

Mob: +64 275 469 921

Email: russell.mathieson@aucklandcity.govt.nz

Web: http://www.westhaven.co.nz

[wheels 543]

Westhaven's requirements are that if a boat has an on-board electrical reticulation system (connectable installation) the vessel must have a current EWOF before plugging in to the marina supply and the electrical supply lead must be suitably rated, tested and tagged.

That part is correct.

 

Now this is where it all goes slightly screwy

For boats with no on-board system, the old practice of connecting a male 16A round pin plug to a standard extension lead is no longer legal. Minimum requirements now only allow for a suitably rated (16A or 32A) cord connection set supplying an appliance inlet or alternatively a permanently wired connection to the vessel.

 

We cannot now legally accept any extension lead that is not 16A rated (i.e. no domestic leads are acceptable)

 

Furthermore, we cannot accept any extension lead fitted with a 16A round pin plug at the supply end but with only a 10A flat pin cord connector at the other.

Well actually yes you can. They are not interpreting the regs correctly.

- leads must be heavy duty (1.5mm) 16A rated

That is partly true. 1.5mm is limited to a length of 10m. That will be suitable for most, but anything longer and you have to go to 2.5mm2, but that is a minor point.

- there must be a 10A circuit breaker between the 16A marina supply and the 10A outlet.

That is not correct. You do not have to have a Circuit breaker of 10A, or any circuit breaker for that matter. The 16A breaker on the Marina supply is quite adiquate.

- the 10A (flat pin) outlet must also be sufficiently IP rated (minimum IP45 but higher is better)

correct

- the 10A (flat pin) outlet must also be sufficiently IP rated (minimum IP45 but higher is better)

Completely wrong

- the lead must be tested and tagged

- appliances must be tested and tagged

Actually no. Only if they are hired to you by the Marina or a hire company. Otherwise it is not different to any other extension cable or appliance in your home.

We do not require the cord extension set to be fixed to the vessel, i.e., it can be removed when not required and so not affect class requirements or become a nuisance, etc.

That is good, but some Marinas are requiring them to be fixed and that is infact illegal to do.

 

Now here is the crunch part. If you require an eWOF, your DC installation is now part of the electrical inpection. Your DC system needs to be upto to the ColRegs standard. That is the same level a vessel in survey requires. The other crunch part is that the AC system Earth must be Bonded to the DC sytem Negative and then connected to the Seawater via an earthing plate. Tell me how many boats have an Earthing plate.

I can bet you that a large number of boats in NZ marinas will not be wired to ColRegs. I can bet you that an even bigger number will not have an Earthing plate. Only a few larger crusing boats would have one for SSB grounding.

 

It is really nice to see that Westhaven seems to have a supervisor that is concerned enough to ask questions and try and work through this. And not like the response I got, Polite but basicly saying we don't give a toss. But some more work is required. In the Tech Forum, I posted that actual test form that an inspector should be ticking offwhen he carries out a test. This is going to be a long process and expensive and most boats are going to fail.

[Guest]

The reason the leads and appliances need to be tested and tagged is because you are taking them into a place of work (for the marina employees). Therefore residential rules do not apply.

 

I would also think it better if leads had to be 2.5 mm as well, they are just more robust.

 

The reason you can't put a 10 amp socket on the end of a 16 amp lead is there is nothing to stop the socket being overloaded above 10 amps.

[wheels 543]

The reason you can't put a 10 amp socket on the end of a 16 amp lead is there is nothing to stop the socket being overloaded above 10 amps.

That doesn't matter. Check the breakers in your switch Board Slacko. You won't find many in their that are just 10A. Only lighting circuits. But all your power sockets will be far higher. The breaker is there to protect the cable. NOT the appliance and NOT the socket. If the appliance shorts, the cable would not handle a dead short. It would become a heater itself. It is quite possible that you may have two or more appliances working off one breaker. The cable is quite happy, the breaker is happy, till it's tripping point is reached.

1.5mm2 conductor is rated to handle 16A. You are allowed a voltage drop of upto but no more than 8%. That is why 10m is the limit for 1.5mm2 cable.

Infact, you can buy these cables with a 16A caravan plug on one end and a 3 pin 10A plug on the other end, over the counter.

[El Toro 97]

I have just had the good folk from Marine Electrics doing some work on the ole girl and they have also made me compliant with these regs.

 

As always they did an awesome job..

 

I'll take some snaps today.

 

Basically the power cord is wired into the boat (makes curling up bit tricky after few rums) There is a flick switch and then a 240 double house plug. None of which is attached to any of the boat wiring.

 

The've hidden it well and I now have a jonny go faster sticker to say that I wont electricoute myself with my dehumidifier

[Guest]

Pork Chops setup is pretty nice, simple and discrete. Had a peek yesterday and it looks like the business.

[wheels 543]

Pork chop, is this the "portable" eletrical box thingy? or a permanent install??

[El Toro 97]

Its permanantly installed

[wheels 543]

Firstly not busting your chops here PC. But it brings in some interesting points now. So do you have an Earthing plate? does your DC system come up to ColRegs? Was any of that tested before they tagged it and gave the eWOF??

[El Toro 97]

BY the look of it yes it has an earthing plate. It was installed prior to Wed then when I was down yesterday a ewof had been completed and the forms were left on board.

Other than knowing not to put a fork into the socket, thats about all I know.

 

I do know that I am now compliant and have the paperwork and stickers to show that

[Guest]

Can we ask how much?

[El Toro 97]

Not yet you cant.. I'l see once I get the bill.. I had a fair bit of other stuff done as well, will see if i can break it down.

They did a god job and its pretty well concealed

[wheels 543]

OK, good to hear. Will be very interersted in hearing price.

I have been thinking that we could have several outcomes to this.

1:Marine sparky doesn't get boat upto standard, but eWOF's it. That now makes him liable and subject to the $10K fine.

2:Marine sparky gets boat to standard and Owner gets hit with huge bill.

3:Owner can not afford to get boat to standard and has to disconnect from supply or be fined himself.

[otto 31]

Been working on this since the beginning have a letter drafted and hope to have that submitted to Westhaven this week. Brought all the relevant regulations and standards and also can find no one in agreeance that what is proposed is correct to comply with the law. That is i have had discussions with electrical engineers and the Ministry of Development along with various inspectors. Only that a marina owner can impose their own requirements. Once a boat has 230V wiring permanently installed it does become a "connectable installation" and what they have stated will be correct. I would also not want what is proposed in some boats for safety reasons, last Simrad would have had our power outlet soaked, a lead as is currently used is far safer especially on the smaller boats. Would be great for some additional help so if anyone owns a boat on the marina and is an inspector or engineer (electrical) let's know. Making all boats permanently connected may also increase the problem of electrolysis, so those that are simply doing this be cautious.

Remember at present most boats "are not connectable installations".

[wheels 543]

Good on ya Ottto. Keep us up to date.

You know, I would ahve thought an inspector would haver to have some real good quals to be an inspector. But it seems not.

[Guest]

typically IP67 rated

meaning a level of 'waterproof' ????

[wheels 543]

Yes. IP can stand for two thing, depending on what side of the tracks you grew up on. Ingress Protection Rating, or International Protection Rating.

The next number ranges from 0 through to 6 and stands for what it is supposed to protect from.

The next number is 0 to 8 and stands for the level of it's protection.

You can sometimes get a Letter after the numbers A to D and that will stand for protection from access to hazards.

 

0 — No protection against contact and ingress of objects

1 >50 mm Any large surface of the body, such as the back of a hand, but no protection against deliberate contact with a body part

2 >12.5 mm Fingers or similar objects

3 >2.5 mm Tools, thick wires, etc.

4 >1 mm Most wires, screws, etc.

5 Dust protected Ingress of dust is not entirely prevented, but it must not enter in sufficient quantity to interfere with the satisfactory operation of the equipment; complete protection against contact

6 Dust tight No ingress of dust; complete protection against contact

 

0 Not protected —

1 Dripping water Dripping water (vertically falling drops) shall have no harmful effect.

2 Dripping water when tilted up to 15° Vertically dripping water shall have no harmful effect when the enclosure is tilted at an angle up to 15° from its normal position.

3 Spraying water Water falling as a spray at any angle up to 60° from the vertical shall have no harmful effect.

4 Splashing water Water splashing against the enclosure from any direction shall have no harmful effect.

5 Water jets Water projected by a nozzle against enclosure from any direction shall have no harmful effects.

6 Powerful water jets Water projected in powerful jets against the enclosure from any direction shall have no harmful effects.

7 Immersion up to 1 m Ingress of water in harmful quantity shall not be possible when the enclosure is immersed in water under defined conditions of pressure and time (up to 1 m of submersion).

8 Immersion beyond 1 m The equipment is suitable for continuous immersion in water under conditions which shall be specified by the manufacturer. Normally, this will mean that the equipment is hermetically sealed. However, with certain types of equipment, it can mean that water can enter but only in such a manner that produces no harmful effects.

 

A Back of hand

B Finger

C Tool

D Wire

 

H High voltage device

M Device moving during water test

S Device standing still during water test

W Weather conditions

 

There are further numbers used, but I have never bothered with them. They relate to things like impact resistance etc.

[smithy09 50]

Just getting back into this thread after a heavy weekend of dinghy sailing with the kids. Good on ya wheels for keeping it going and rasing the right questions.

 

Pork Chop, I would be really interested to see how your installation is done, and how they fitted the earth plate which wheels pointed out. This has to be on the outside of the boat, in the water... Not an easy item to fit!

[Steve Pope 243]

Can't see the earthing plate idea being a good thing for an alloy boat. I put everything electrical coming on board through a 2kva transformer unless it is directly connected to a power tool, vacuum cleaner, batterycharger etc.