New depth transducer

[Norwegian Blue 10]

Hi All,

 

I am looking for some alternative sensible suggestions. My old depth transducer on my Navico Chorus gear poohed itself. I have managed to source a new replacement from the USA. I was out on the grid over the week-end and had hoped to pop the old one out and new one back in. However, a few good smacks with a hammer confirmed that the old one has been epoxied in place

 

I have tested the new one through the hull and it works 100% (single skin glass) so methinks rather than cut and grind the old one out I should try and just fix the new one inside the hull. Are there any purpose made fittings available to help this? Otherwise one good suggestion so far would be to epoxy a piece of pipe inside the hull and put the new transducer in with a bit of vegetable oil to make sure it works ok? I could put a pin through it to stop the transducer bumping about, but I would probably have to put up with the odd bit of oil slopping about.

 

Cheers,

Pete

[ex TL systems 63]

once you know it is all working in the oil why not epoxy a lid on the pipe so that it is all sealed up with the cable coming through the lid?

[The big T 41]

Just silicone it to bottom making sure there are no bubbles. Might lose a bit of sensitivity but you are probably only worried about how shallow it is, not deep. If it doesn't work, what you have suggested is good but I have just siliconed with success

[PaulR 3]

Gaffa tape first to try, then if working, put thich silicon over the whole transducer base,and push flat, wipe away excess silicon.

 

Navman sold a transducer with an angled base to fit to the hull so the "top" was flat. Worked well on Green Pepper.

[wheels 543]

Do not silicon. Epoxy if you must. Through the Hull is the best. The reason is that some of the sounders poke out that much power, they can crack the transducer. Plus the silicon attenuates the signal dramaticaly. Epoxy works well and you can even angle the transducer to point downwards. Yes it makes a difference.

[After Midnight 0]

I replaced mine quite recently. Was also worried about removing the old one. In the end I marked the middle of the old one, drilled a pilot hole straight through, then drilled halway through with the correct size hole saw, then the other half from the top. It's all just plasticy stuff anyway. Everdure'd the hole and slipped the new one in with sealant. The slightly worrying job was no big deal in the end. Gues it's always just a bit scary drilling holes in the bottom of ones boat!?

[PaulR 3]

I . . . .GuesS it's always just a bit scary drilling holes in the bottom of ones boat!?

 

Best to practice on someone else's first, IMHO

 

also filling existing hole with a wooden plug works well and keeps new hole cutter in line.

Luckly most transducers for yachts have a 2" bore so often existing skin fittings can simply accommodate a new transducer; speed or depth.

 

Personally I have liked the Nexus / Airmar triducer, all 3 in one. (Speed, Depth & Temp)

[Guest]

Installing a shoot through the hull.One trick is to test it in a plastic bag filled with water before you do significant work.That way,if you are doubtful,you can try other locations.Its good to test it with the boat moving also.

[Norwegian Blue 10]

Thanks for all the helpful hints.

 

In the end I found a standard downpipe fitting from Bunnings was the perfect fit and it even had a collar on the one end which made epoxying to the hull easy. I bought a $2 gardening kneeling pad from which I cut a sealing gasket which keeps the thing in place. I filled it with canola oil, but the epoxy bond isn't perfect and so it is leaking. I will smear a little Sika to seal it all up. I have actually thought I may rather just put a layer of winch grease on the bottom of the transducer, then I won't have a problem with anything slopping or leaking?

 

I do only need to know how shallow it is, tacking on the first bump isn't that much fun.