Crazyhorse

Thanks Harry. Will give it a go as water should equalize in the shaft tube so no need to burp the gland?

Probably been hashed a while ago but has anyone ever run a water feed to the prop tube via the air breather on a PSS seal? We went vesconite last year and were surprised to get a little bit of play and thinking there may not be a enough water getting past the bearing? Heating up? A 'T' joiner from the hiscock to the PSS? When the engine is running, the path of least resistance would be the skin fitting but it would also draw a small amount of water up the prop shaft too?

Well, unlike Norways idea of electric passenger aircraft, you might survive this one when the power runs out!

Some staunchions sit on TWO plates. Ours do and this is to allow them some give so they will wobble a little so that it saves the deck on any impact. Coming into a dock wind behind and crunch! The deck doesn't get bent up, the top plate does. Give them a pull and see if the bottom plate thats flush with the deck is moving too, if so then they need to be re seated. I've had great success with "G-FLEX". It's an epoxy that is actually elastic, no cracking under small movement, 100% waterproof . We used it on our new chain plates and an annoying leak in the deadwood and to date, good as.

You would think Harry that with Yanmar being used all over the joint their parts would be cheaper but no. Can't buy them from overseas either because agents in one country can't send to another. I noticed the Chinese are getting in on the act with parts coming up on Alixpress...but..but..would you trust them!!?

When working for Halls transport (an unpleasant experience!) their TRC 50 foot container fridge compressors were all yanmar powered. 3cyl. They get around a bit!!

One consideration of a lot of "marine conversion" diesels is the timing gear. Modern day engines in cars use a cam belt. Not sure if all marine purpose built engines use gears but the Yanmar does. It's difficult enough doing a cam belt in a car but with most marine installations, it could be bloody nightmare and needs to be done on a regularly. Not so with gear driven cams.

Didn't Isuzu produce their 2.8ltr turbo diesels with CHROME cylinder liners? Bought a "MU" years ago, Original Jap miles on the clock and was told to go to full synthetic oil. Ow to something. We de-sludged the engine and did it. About 5 years sold it and engine still mint. Was warned NEVER run a yanmar on synthetic oil. Only use mono grade 30w. So very different engines?

Just another trick (from my truckie days) is the 2GM uses a sideways mounted oil filter. No problem with the filter other than the sludge has no bottom to sit in so sticks to the bottom side of the filter and can flow back. We got a powerful magnet and stick that on the bottom of the filter which traps all the minute metal particles an engine creates. Most cars have a magnetic sump plug which does the same thing but not as good. (boy do I miss having a sump plug on a yanmar!!)

Ouch!!! First I have heard of this. Would destroy the engine in minutes and of course not trigger the oil pressure alarm until too late. Is this a common problem? The fuel primer bulb we fitted works very well, can bleed and be underway again in about 5mins. About 20 on the primer pump whilst knocking skin off the knuckles...useless.

The other "skipper" on board here said "that's not all,tell them about the water pump". Yep, OK heading up past the oil refinery Marsden Point the temp alarm goes off. We immediately shut down, sails out and pulled the engine cover off. On starting the engine I noticed a rattle in the water pump pulley. The fly wheel has a cam in it and it was stripped. Our "box'o'bits" is extensive so managed to bend a washer to go on one side and a rubber one on the other, got us to Riverside Marina. The wiring too leaves a bit to be desired. We replaced the 55amp alternator with a 120amp Bosch and holy smok

An interesting read but it could easily be a volvo Penta. Our 2GM20 is 17 years old, but not without issues. One he hasn't come across yet although I think it's mostly effecting raw water models is the oil supply pipe that runs from the block to the head runs right under the head anode. Pull the anode out and the spill falls on the pipe and rustic it out over time. Ours popped its clogs and hour from Tutukaka with oil everywhere and a sail into the wind with no engine into Tutukaka which the Pardeys would be proud of. We replaced the silly little Hitachi alternator, the hideous engine mounts w

Thanks Mark. Don't recognise her. A few friends heading north so hope all is well.

Any name? ("Zebedee" was rescued off the rocks a few days ago other side of Russell).

Well, delivered loads for wilco, Stevies when they were in riora drive when driving for mach movers and never an issue when the dyna bolts are put in correctly. I knew the guy who was crushed at Hobsonville some years back when several panels were bowled by a tornado, a nice guy who delivered prefab steel for Goeorge Grant Engineering and was told the dyna bolts were not fully locked in. Incidentally erice, the maximum length for trucked to site precast panels is 40 feet. There is no 15m.

Those panels are drilled on site after being lifted into position by crane then fitted with dyna bolts and propped up. Safe enough but the ground bolts have to be set into solid well cured cement, this isnt always the case. The crews who specialise in this kind of construction are very good at it like Highprop and with the huge amount of panels that go up around the place (theres about 20 along side the driveway at Norsand at the moment), its rare this happens.

Good one Dave, thats the only draw back of those sleeves but its easy to pull it down quickly to do course adjustments.

This might be of use? We looked for a rain slick for our tiller pilot...nothing. A friend said why not a "milking sleeve"?. Went to a farm supply, $10 for 2. Scuse the pun, fits like a glove. Fully water proof and elastic ends.

Any chance of posting how the Thordon goes Fish? Would like to know. We went vesonite and a small amount of play after only about 80hrs so not sure we made the right decision. Time will tell.

Does that work!? Sounds very uncomfortable!!!????

Had the same on the jib tracks. Are they counter sunk on top? We used a sealant a year ago as the water was getting down through the counter sunk screws last year. Didn't have to remove them. Not a problem since.

Rebuilt a morse. $400 up for a new telegraph put us into valium mode. The old MV-1 was seized, years of salt getting in and no grease. I jokingly said to a friend as I removed the back of the gear box "this is usually when a spring flies out..". A spring and a ball bearing flew out. Soaked it in diesel and got the neutral button freed up, stripped it down and added a grease nipple. Works! What a job hooking up the cables..Another story.

Links involve mostly electrical conduction (potential). This is a chemical reaction that probably isn't helped by stray currents but bonding etc isn't going to achieve anything. The sodium chloride, bronze, oxygen and high sap content of kauri timber creating NaOH. Looks like lots of vinegar squirting coming up. I have removed that non connected big zinc from the shaft log, a nice big gap now needing filling, as its of no use anyway. Another old coger in the yard here Matt said its a common problem, he had the same and lasted years on a kauri boat. Use white vinegar, period. Only problem now i

Yep, that would happen as the components are all in contact with each other. The trouble for us is the fizzing gland is not touching anything but the kauri shaft log. The PSS is rubber mounted, cutlass is vesconite so non conductive. It will be interesting next year when we pull the lot out! Post a few pics too. I'm sure Noel is right that the wood has seawater leaching in around where the gland is and is reacting creating caustic soda?

How are they conductively connected?