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madyottie

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Everything posted by madyottie

  1. I have work Sunday afternoon, but will attempt to join in some of the activities, perhaps drive to mahu for the saturday, then sail out/up monday morning to come back with the fleet. Of course, weather and family permitting
  2. That doesn't appear to be supporting the hull very well at all. Very hard to tell much from the photos, might be worth asking the noelex guys. The only guy I know in the fleet at the mo is Ric Turner, he works at Fonterra takanini, don't know if there's a directory. The Noelex and Hartley fleets are based at MYMBC near onehunga.
  3. If it's a marten noelex and trailer it should be really simple as they were well thought out. Axle just out of water, tilt released, line up front of boat with self centring roller and just wind. They weigh around 750kg so you need low gear on the winch. If the water is a bit rougher we found it better to leave the tilt locked so the boat couldn't lift off in the waves.
  4. At risk of a little drift, but following the general point of the thread... The problem then goes over to the whole parental thingy. By that, I mean that we (normal people like most Crew users) would try to teach our children basics like right and wrong, safe and dangerous, black and white... All the usual things. We would teach our kids the risks of falling from trees, jumping on a trampoline, swimming in the sea etc and supervise where needed. We would also try to be aware of where they were, and keep them away from crazy-high risks, like the aforementioned cliff-top wi
  5. Am I missing something? Cruise crew takes car up, race crew brings it back?
  6. Hmm, I'm suspecting that the VX? hulls are a wee bit slimmer than the GBE. And a whole lot lighter? I'm probably looking at 350kg each hull, plus beams and pod. I'm also guessing the beams "bolt on" rather than "bolt through" so the trailer doesn't need to expand outward beyond loading width? I think sitting the hulls over the wheels with a GBE could result in a cg too high for fast safe towing, due to the hulls being 6 feet deep, as well as being harder to load/offload. The one thing I haven't given a lot of thought to, is what to do with the pod. Probably easiest to win
  7. This is probably what I was remembering - it was close to 10 years ago. How about this arrangement, with additional flaps on the sides above some lacing? The basic tension could be put in at the corners, then the edges would not take any point loading, mostly just there to stop the ropes escaping. Instead of going around the pod, why not go over it? Zip-up flaps could allow access to motor etc.
  8. Not overly keen on bolt ropes either. The ones I was referring to earlier were literally hung from the corners, with no other lashing. Basically suspended between a square of rope or wire. I'm just not sure how well it would work on a boat with cabins, as the small boat ones come half-way over the decks. I'll see if I can find a pic somewhere.
  9. What I came up with for the trailer is bows forward. Because the boat has to "Expand" to get the beams out, I thought swing arms mounted from a central spine, as far back as possible. To load, the arms are set to the sailing width, lets say 75% maximum. I'm thinking about basic lift-out jockey-wheels on the arms, as far out as possible without fouling anything, just to ease the strain. Rig and launch in this position. Unlock the arms and swing out to 100% width and the beams can be slipped out. So far so good. Of course the next bit is tricky, getting the hulls up an over the guards/wh
  10. Have seen some small race cats in europe where the tramp has a line running around the whole outside, and basically hung just from the four corners. Am thinking something similar with zips over the pod hatches. Have got preliminary design work for trailer which allows loading of boat fully rigged, then folds in for trailing. Suspension design was a head scratcher as hulls need to lift over wheels in the folding process. Luckily I had a bit of downtime at work, so out with the pencils!
  11. I'm absorbing all the info here as best I can. Short term plan is to get her race ready and clutter free. Long term ambition is to make her easily demountable and trailable so those distant regattas are easier. Also so I can take her home for the off season. That requires somewhat of a redesign in the tramp area to avoid the lashing each time, so when new tramps are needed I'll start drawing.
  12. That's what I've done all round. The failure was at the cross-over. It's probably to be expected really, given that my four year old uses it as a, well, trampoline! The flexing of the hull sides is pretty scary to watch, so I usually just look elsewhere Of course, it's always possible that I just lucked out, and the core had a weak point There wasn't any noticeable chafe elsewhere nearby.
  13. The main reason I switched to continuous lacing is exactly that reason. There is not enough space to tie and tension individual lashings at present. On the sides, the tramps touch the hulls all the way along the outsides, and also touch the pod in the middle. I'll wait and see how much chafe happens there. On the plus side, the rods haven't moved since the switch. That said, it was the back end of the front tramp (along the main beam) that chafed through, which is where the most gap is, and probably also the highest point loadings as the lashings are further apart. I'll re-do that part wi
  14. Thanks KM, that's what I suspected. I've worked with dyneema before (used to run a chandlery in the UK) but couldn't remember what the chafe resistance was like. I probably should have given that a little more thought, given that I use it on the Laser cunningham through the sail. Doesn't move much but wears through some other types of line. We also sold some so-called liquid crystal in 4mm which was crazy strong, but went for something like GBP 4 per metre. Never found out what it was meant for, but the director/owner seemed to love it, and sold lots of it. I don't think I ever sold an
  15. I recently replaced the tramp lashing on the GBE, finishing it off on the day of the rum race. That same night some of the line broke, quite badly chafed. I had plenty of spare so simply re-tied it all pre-race. Does anyone have any suggestions on which cord/string is best for this? I use continuous lashing for each area, rather than individual loops. Would D12/ Lightning/ whatever it's called here (plaited dyneema with no case) be a good choice or would it not offer enough chafe resistance? And if so, where's a good place to buy it?
  16. Agree with most of what has been written above. In my humble opinion, it's hard to go past the Merlin 6.1 as a 20 foot trailer yacht. Reasonable speed, good stability, and quite roomy for their size. Also the Coronet 20, although they are quite a bit heavier. On similar threads, people have referred to the NZTYA ratings numbers as gospel. They aren't. While the SRI shows ultimate righting ability from a knockdown, it doesn't really factor in the likes of hull form stability. Or at least it didn't, they may have changed the formula by now. The NZTYA rating, like any performance based sy
  17. Did anyone get any good photos on the night? Things were a little hectic on our boat, but I was would love to see some others! And do we have a list of results? I know we were at the back, but would like to see if my predictions were correct
  18. So we took part in the Crew.org.nz rum race last night. When we motored across to Westhaven, there was basically no wind, and the harbour was board flat. Half an our later things were very different, as the breeze was close to 20kts (Force 6 in old talk). We hoisted the jib, and promptly discovered something I'd missed. In my rush to get the boat ready that afternoon, I'd left the reinforcing plates for the jib leads at home, and then attempted to jury rig it. The starboard side was ok, but I hadn't put a stopper knot in the port side bridle, and it promptly started slicing through the
  19. Turned out to be a moulded glass flared wheel arch, either old prado or bighorn by the shape of it. Still in perfect condition too, just ripped the screws out. Thought I could list it on trademe, the idiot would be looking for one to replace it
  20. Agreed! fantastic sailing out there. A great way to find out what is and isn't bolted down. We had quite a few minor failures, mostly caused by lack of prep time on my part. Which is why we had the small jib on, although once we got past north head we weren't doing too badly. The reach back from Saltworks was magic We don't have a log, but it was FAST, full on apparent wind stuff. And a lot nicer than the beating we took, um, beating out. and then a nice relaxing jaunt back up to the finish, when all the kids decided to surface from the hulls. 'twas cool to see Black Panther, Taep
  21. Thats what I'm hoping. Apparently either my insurance co or the police need to request it, I can't get the footage myself. Bit of a dumb rule imho, but never mind. Looking closely under decent lights I may get away with just a bumper, wing, and headlight cluster, the rest of the panels look straight, albeit very marked. Dammit I knew dropping down to 3PF&T on that car was a bad idea!
  22. Sadly not, only got the right hand side. Looks to my untrained eye like the one on a toyota Prado. If there's any justice there'll be some big scrapes all the way along the drivers side. Anyone know good panelbeaters?
  23. Leaving the rum race prizegiving we were hit badly by a charcoal coloured 4x4 driving towards the clubs, right outside sails restaurant. Basically took the right side off my car, and bumper off theirs. Sped off straight away. Keep your eyes peeled folks, drunk drivers should be hung. Luckily no injuries, but now I need to buy three new kiddy seats, and half an car
  24. I get that! Two forecasts I use which are usually close are showing opposite wind directions! Both say warm with possible early showers tho
  25. Back on the mooring in te atatu this morning, with the rig down
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