aardvarkash10

Yeah, its keyed, no locking tab that I can see on it. I've got a 3/4 bar so its just the socket I need - failing all else the engine is currently sitting on the trailer, so I'll haul its sorry ass off to a Yanmar place and pay them to remove the offending nut. Thanks everyone for the very useful suggestions and help!

This is true Wheels and the witness marks tell the story. Unfortch, its difficult to get to the correct torque if you use the hammer and cold chisel for installation.

Bugger. Removed the gearbag and found the flywheel is retained by this bloody thing, not the five-bolt system it should have. Has anyone in Auckland got the correct socket or impact spanner for removing it? Extra brownie points if you also have the flywheel puller. Will pay in rum or cash!

The recalcitrant beast, tamed. Knocked up a small rolling frome for it to sit on to make life easier. Now its off to the steam cleaning location for a swift removal of gunk.

Engine out today. Went pretty smoothly with the exception of a minor dent in the companionway top step and the engine choosing to become a horizonal rather than vertical twin as it was transported off the jetty. Nothing monumental to add to the excellent advice in this thread except to say it works.

good taste never goes out of fashion

I'd ask one of the people listed in this document. https://www.westhaven.co.nz/getmedia/e07684df-252d-4b62-8cc2-a2146400a62a/Electrical-Connections_2.pdf/

taken me four pages to finally figure out that these are not the bright flares you are looking for... (to paraphase Obi Wan)

Its the inlet, so unplugged doesn't matter. In any case it comes with waterproof covers (according to the blurb). IP44 rating would be plenty - it is sufficient for sprays of water. If you are getting water at your marina jetty that is beyond a spray, you will be having bigger problems than whether your shore power inlet is sufficiently waterproof. Shore power has to be supplied through an RCD so there is little to no electrical risk even if water gets into the connector.

Given that sailing is generally an anachronism in and of itself, that's a reasonable assumption.

In an emergency you use ALL available communication. There is no guarantee that a vessel in line of sight has radio comms monitored, is aware of any epirb distress signal you may have sent, or is looking directly at you in daylight and able to notice you doing a Watusi on cabin top of your slowly sinking vessel. They may notice a flare, especially at night. Nothing is a replacement for the other.

Same kill-joys that want to ban fireworks...

a friend was in the first group to windsurf teh strait, and the first woman ot do it. She now wingfoils and is teaching Mrs Aaardvark to do it. https://www.nzonscreen.com/title/surfsail-1978

This stuff, or similar. If you think the diesel is going stale, you can either empty the tank and store the removed diesel, adding it back in to fresh fuel at, say, 1:4 ratio (1 part old to 4 parts new). This assumes that you would go through that amount in six months or so. If you have a big fixed tank and barely use it, you might consider emptying the main tank and fitting a small tote tank with a changeover valve between the main and the tote on the fuel line to the pump. That way, your diesel is always reasonably fresh when you are not using the engine a lot (winter race series

whats wrong with opening a hatch? *bloody soft these young ones...*

more is better. Less room for condensation to form.

...and it turns out he answers the phone and gives coherent and intelligent answers even when he's on holiday!

Consider it a proof of concept. It needs to be faster, on wider spaced rails for sure, terminate in downtown Auckland or close by, and ideally have links to the Bay of Plenty, Auckland Airport, and the North Shore. Even longer term, medium speed rail to Wellington. True high speed (TGV, Shinkansen 250-300kph) is too expensive for our population, but a train that could cruise at 150 - 170 kph makes the trip AKL-WLG approximately 4.5 hour passage. Flying is around 2.5 hours if things go well...

stop teasing. I need no assistance in procrastination. 🤣 If the weather is benign enough for our dinghy and outboard (2.4 Aarkon hard bottom with a 2.5 Mercury) its too benign for fun sailing.🥱 But thanks for the kind offer! 💯

yup - mh is onto it. Remote solenoids that are essentially just a big relay run at about 10A tops, probably half that or less, but depends on the solenoid in use. The current is for a very short time and at a low voltage so its actually not too critical what the switch is within reason A solenoid fitted to the starter is a different fish - it may pull 30 to 50A initially, dropping to about 5 - 10A once the pinion is engaged.

I had actually hoped this was the case for us, but no. The oil is dripping from the vents in the gearbox housing around the flywheel and there is clear sign of it being spread by centrifugal forces inside the housing. Ah well. All a learning experience.

Who is this Bill Falconer of which everyone speaks?

Thanks everyone, especially mh for the fullsome description and basic physics! After thinking it through last night I agree - easier to release from the prop shaft and pull the entire engine and gearbox. Definitely a chain block - no chance of a slip and crashing descent of engine through the hull. And yes to the halyard and topping lift in combination. Well, that's Easter buggered.

The manual tells me the 2qm20 is about 130kg, so much more manageable!

which would be great if I had access to a hiab, and a jetty it could reach too!