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Synonymous with sailing and AC. He will be missed.

So the crux of it is you'd need to prove the boat was originally exported from New Zealand and not sold as a GST-free export when you leave to cruise. The issue of it being registered offshore historically was overlooked but may not be in the future. From 2019 thread -Rats Thank you for your enquiry. To meet the terms of returning NZ goods and import the boat free of Customs duty and GST, the boat will need to be readily identifiable (i.e. marked or numbered), the exporter and importer must be the same person, the goods must be in substantially the same condition and export entr

They are not averse to tax on tax “A prospective owner went to Australia liked what they saw and purchased Kick. (my fav 1050 btw) When they returned with Kick, import taxes were payable here in NZ. “ So potentially the original owner could have turned it into a tax export (did?) and claimed back the gst on his “export” as he as he sold in Oz? OK, I think I’m seeing light. Like no different to when you travel out with expensive gear, declare it and when you return you pay nothing as you have a record of leaving with it.

Aligned with Not Cat1 certificate.......but not wanting to continue the derail. If your boat was built in NZ; you are going on a several month cruise and returning, you are not exporting your boat, even if you previously registered it under another countries flag. Surely? So, they are intimating I sold it to myself while I was away? That's ridiculous. How do I prove I still own it? The exit whatever-it-is, doesn't prove I still own it. When i register in Poland do I state it resides in NZ and belongs to me?Or my Company? (which is full legit) If your boat is in boat search, YNZ, w

Darwin doesn't have a snowball in hells chance.

Rarely use it as I have the hardwired pilot but it has ceased working owing to being drowned a couple of times. handy though, single handing. PCB is a bit corroded. Is it worth vinegar and tooth brush scrub followed by baking soda? Then clear nail polish conformal over? Or Epoxy. Never really "used it in anger". Anybody have an experience where it save the day? Bomi patrol?

Thing is professional installers are reluctant to certify a diy as they didn’t do it and more to the point, didn’t get compensated for it. Why should their warranty cover something that is their core business yet they missed out on bulk margin? I guess there are installers that may but they will check every circuit and cascading fail safes consequently charging heaps to the extent they may as well have done it. I wouldn’t warranty someone else’s work. It’s grief you just don’t need. No reflection on the diyer. Based on that, I am somewhat disingenuous expecting the insurance co t

Is ozefridge electric compressor or boat motor driven?

Whether you know the rules or not , insurance companies will give you the cold shoulder if you diy without a commercial installer’s certification of proficiency . (Ime, anyway) And they have little comprehension of AYBC E13. Not that there is much to follow. As CD said, he and IT have covered the niceties. Not that it will help the diyers with insurance even if you blind them with contingency electrical engineering. Btw, I used to pay $300 every so often for updates to NZS3604, seems they are mostly free now. Guess there’s not much point in having “industry best practice” behind a pa

I thought approx 60A was a bit low, but voltage sag would be minimal so is this possible? 1000/13=80A

Pretty mundane in terms of events but something I’d been putting off trying for years because I’ve never needed to. And, conveniently “forgot about it”. I Switched start bank off and emergency on and yanmar started easily. VERY! Quick return to normal and a check of each bms revealed 27A & 28A respectively max discharge during start. BMS’s are 200A max each for 5s so seems ok. I forgot to clamp the starter lead for the inrush current but bms’s didn’t complain so all must be good. So I guess this is a green light for installing windlass & hooking to house bank. Any fried mo

Thanks, I think I’ll stick to regular buoys.

Never used one but I am upgrading a mooring and don’t know whether to keep or ditch.

It would be interesting to know the details,whether it was actually the lithiums that started it, brand of lithium, BMS , configuration for charging, safeguards (or not) in those incidents. AGMs of similar capacity cost more than my Lithium. That said, you have got to have X amount of geek in you to be comfortable with the change-over, and could be dependent on what capacity you can currently charge at and whether you have already tweaked it with configurable external regulated alternator . I already had the perfect setup for DIY LiFePO4 and BMS of my choice. Horses for cou

Nah, won't happen to me. 😇 I: 1. Buy ones that don't do that. 2. My decent chargers have inherently better safe guards and I'm glass half full type. 3. I always position charger away from combustibles and easily ejectable to safe open space for exinguishing. 4. I'm ALWAYS present. 5. I NEVER leave them on the charger indefinitely. 6. I have never used "X" batteries rotating, back to back, with multiple chargers, even when they have got hot. Yeah, RIGHT...