Changed 10 Posted July 10, 2010 Share Posted July 10, 2010 Anyone got one that's not working. I need a screen and there are no repairs being done now. Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted July 10, 2010 Share Posted July 10, 2010 It's good to see some people willing to hold onto the past with such determination.Without people like you there would be no more Model T fords left on our roads. Someone please help this person... Link to post Share on other sites
Changed 10 Posted July 12, 2010 Author Share Posted July 12, 2010 I think I have been offended. Link to post Share on other sites
Farrari 4 Posted July 12, 2010 Share Posted July 12, 2010 TM is your screen physically broken e.g. cracked or is the display not work properly? I have four out of the five Navman units on mine with either no or partial displays working. I am going to try and repair them based on this youtube clip. Apparently it was a design fault with the units. Navico don't want to know me and I haven't found anyone else interested in repairing then so I thought I would give it a go myself. Take a look at this I quite like these model T's when they work and the alternate options aren't all that pleasant price wise. Link to post Share on other sites
Gappy 9 Posted July 12, 2010 Share Posted July 12, 2010 guys if you are interested PM me and I will give you some details on a deal we can do to swap your gear for some Nexus for a reasonable price depending on what you have. Cheers Blair Link to post Share on other sites
Changed 10 Posted July 12, 2010 Author Share Posted July 12, 2010 Mine works fine. The screen is cracked. Unfortunately it was just recently replaced so a real nuisance. Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted July 12, 2010 Share Posted July 12, 2010 So.... Then this guy comes in to work and we get talking. Sometimes I should just keep my big mouth shut But ..... where would be the fun in that? Link to post Share on other sites
Fogg 427 Posted July 13, 2010 Share Posted July 13, 2010 Oh no don't start me on Navman displays.... I like the usability but over the years I've had so many repaired/replaced units that I've dropped more digits than a mafia Don. So next time I'll be forced to make the switch to another brand - which will be annoying cos I'll end up with a mix of 3 different brands all trying to talk to each other where previously I could do it all easily under Navbus. Sailing is complicated enough without the basics letting you down - so good luck with repairing your unit, if you can find an ex Navman engineer they sometimes know what to do for a few beers. Link to post Share on other sites
Farrari 4 Posted July 13, 2010 Share Posted July 13, 2010 Just replaced one crap plastic connector with a $7.50 piece of rubber and now it looks to work again. Actually the piece of rubber is probably only worth 5c or less but I had to buy another display to get it. How long it will last, only time will tell. Sorry TM, doesn't help your cause Link to post Share on other sites
Changed 10 Posted July 13, 2010 Author Share Posted July 13, 2010 Good youtube clip. I'm going to have a go at making a new screen front out of a bit of polycarb. It's only mounted in the bezel frame. At the moment glad wrap around the whole unit works great. Link to post Share on other sites
Bogan 8 Posted July 20, 2010 Share Posted July 20, 2010 I had some temporary success drying out my 3100 wind display and depth display. Took them home, opened them up and enclosed them with a dehumidifier. Both started working properly, then I dropped the depth one and broke the connector strip away from the circuit board. Could have used that video to sort out a better way to reconnect them. My attempt (pressure with a hot screw driver) didn't work - I could only get a few cells going again. The wind display was still suspect, but leaving it on with the backlight going kept it working for about 8 months. It's poked again now. BTW, on a 1020 the instrument pod is a pretty damp environment so moisture comes in through the mounting tube of the unit. Need a fully sealed unit I think. Logan Link to post Share on other sites
Changed 10 Posted July 20, 2010 Author Share Posted July 20, 2010 Do you have a 3100 unit that poked? I only need the screen in the bezel. Link to post Share on other sites
Farrari 4 Posted July 20, 2010 Share Posted July 20, 2010 BTW, on a 1020 the instrument pod is a pretty damp environment so moisture comes in through the mounting tube of the unit. Need a fully sealed unit I think. I've got to agree with you there, especially with the spray dodger removed. The Navman units do seem to handle it OK, other than the display issue. The attachment of the ribbon connector to the display seems to be the root cause of the display failures. Drying the units out worked for me as a temporary fix but as soon as they were place back in the damp conditions they failed again. I'm hoping that replacing the connector as per the youtube video clip will buy me some time so as I can prioritise more important items (like new sails). Next time around I will definitely be looking for fully sealed units. Link to post Share on other sites
Bogan 8 Posted July 21, 2010 Share Posted July 21, 2010 Do you have a 3100 unit that poked? I only need the screen in the bezel. You mean just the clear screen, or the LCD display? Could be that I can supply a stuffed unit depending on what I replace the 3100 wind with. Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted July 23, 2010 Share Posted July 23, 2010 Just replaced one crap plastic connector with a $7.50 piece of rubber and now it looks to work again. Actually the piece of rubber is probably only worth 5c or less but I had to buy another display to get it. How long it will last, only time will tell. Sorry TM, doesn't help your cause were did you get the new connector from ? Link to post Share on other sites
Farrari 4 Posted July 23, 2010 Share Posted July 23, 2010 I used this display from surplustronics http://www.surplustronics.co.nz/shop/product-LA0320.html. The connectors out of it are big enough to do four Speed/Depth or two Wind/Repeat units. I also had to file a slot in the clear pastic LCD backing plate on the Navman unit so as the connector would fit. I used a bit of foam door draft stop tape at the bottom edge of the display so as the cover held enough pressure on the connector for it to work reliably. I didn't use hot glue as per the youtube video. I'm putting the pod back on the 1020 today. The next Simrad should be a good test for it. Link to post Share on other sites
Marshy 30 Posted August 16, 2010 Share Posted August 16, 2010 Hey guys What was your Navman gear doing before repair? I have a depth 3100 what when turned on it just goes all black? How did your repair hold up ferarri? Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted August 16, 2010 Share Posted August 16, 2010 Deep 6 all of it! Link to post Share on other sites
Marshy 30 Posted August 16, 2010 Share Posted August 16, 2010 Haha yeah problem is i have the whole set, and just bought the boat so up to the eye balls in debt. Its either have a crack at fixing it or go without for a while!! Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted August 16, 2010 Share Posted August 16, 2010 I just watched the clip and while looking a bit Heath Robinson, if it works great! I managed to get a $600 Airflow meter on a BMW working by opening it up and filing the mounting holes for the slider so it had fresh contact surface. Magic! Took me 20 minutes. So give it a go, nothing to lose but some time! Link to post Share on other sites
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