rail meat 0 Posted October 19, 2015 Share Posted October 19, 2015 Hi, can anyone help. Need to find someone that knows all about stern glands, mine needs repacking, have no room to fit in a drip less one Quote Link to post Share on other sites
erice 732 Posted October 19, 2015 Share Posted October 19, 2015 mine was leaking a bit when i got my first keeler bit like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YTQ997vAq08 mainly researched with google http://www.pbo.co.uk/expert-advice/expert-answers/how-to-repack-a-stern-gland-step-by-step-1031 but was able to stop the leak by gathering the right tools and extensions to crack the lock-nut pump it full of grease and tighten by 1/4? of a turn before locking with nut again Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SanFran 12 Posted October 19, 2015 Share Posted October 19, 2015 Did mine a few years back. Not sure how often they need doing. Not sure if it's best to do on the hard (we were). Not even sure if it is possible to do while in the water. Not a difficut job... A little fiddly. Where are you currently? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SanFran 12 Posted October 19, 2015 Share Posted October 19, 2015 Do you have the right two spanners? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rail meat 0 Posted October 19, 2015 Author Share Posted October 19, 2015 Did mine a few years back. Not sure how often they need doing. Not sure if it's best to do on the hard (we were). Not even sure if it is possible to do while in the water. Not a difficut job... A little fiddly. Where are you currently? Am in auckland, westhaven Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rail meat 0 Posted October 19, 2015 Author Share Posted October 19, 2015 Do you have the right two spanners? Yes have the spanners Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Battgirl 23 Posted October 19, 2015 Share Posted October 19, 2015 This can be done on the water though water will come in. I was advised to do it every 12 months. Its important to get the right size packing and right number of wraps, a sharp stanley knife and appropriate grease. To get old packing out I screwed a screw into the packing then pulled it out with pliers. Auckland Engineering Supplies in Beaumont Street were good for packing and grease. To repack I put a snug wrap of packing around the shaft then cut it where it met, greased it up then pushed it in with a screwdriver all the way around the shaft. Once all wraps were done in this way the drip should be back to normal once the gland is back together. A thread file was also handy at this time to clean up the thread. I also found it was handy to be able to tighten the gland completely so there was no drip when I wasn't using the boat. Good luck Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SanFran 12 Posted October 19, 2015 Share Posted October 19, 2015 Yes. The packing is cut into three x 360 degree pieces each fitting around the shaft. The three joints are offset 120 degrees from the previous piece. We didn't grease the packing but don't see any reason why not. I'm sure you get a few years out of it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harrytom 648 Posted October 20, 2015 Share Posted October 20, 2015 once repacked and not dripping,go for a motor and back off gland till you get a drop or 2 every minute,keeps it cool and when stopped should not drip 200mm is all you need for dripless seal,i got one this year of chatfield marine $600 fitted in hr,best to do out of water though. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ScarecrowR31 8 Posted October 20, 2015 Share Posted October 20, 2015 Last boat had a difficult to repack gland due to a re-engine by the PO and always dripped a too much. I was able to source a product I think called "Dripless Stuffing". Once used never touched the gland for six years and then sold the boat. A cheap alternative that worked for me 100%. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
erice 732 Posted October 20, 2015 Share Posted October 20, 2015 Drip-Less Packing An alternative to conventional braided packing is Drip-Less moldable packing. The advantage of this type of packing is that it is self lubricating, which eliminates the necessity of letting the stuffing box drip. Drip-Less packing requires two retainer rings of conventional packing. You install a ring of conventional packing, then push Dripless Packing into the box until it is about three-quarters full. A second ring of conventional packing completes the job. Tighten the nut just enough to stop the box from dripping. This type of packing runs hotter than water-lubricated flax, and over tightening will generate excessive heat. The stuffing box should not be too hot to touch. Low-friction packing is six to ten times more expensive than flax, but because it rarely needs adjustment, it can be a good choice for a stuffing box that is particularly difficult to service. http://www.boatus.com/boattech/casey/stuffing-box.asp Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chewing Gum 17 Posted October 24, 2015 Share Posted October 24, 2015 We have a very simple dripless seal which would be very little longer than a standard gland. It never leaks, has done thousands of hours and needs very little or no maintenance. It consists of a simple oil seal mounted in a free floating white plastic bush (looks like nylon or something similar to the sheave material in some blocks) with the oil seal spring replaced by a neoprene rubber o-ring. The plastic bush has a short length of rubber hose clamped to it and the stuffing box. There is a small (10mm) cooling hose from the saltwater cooling pump to cool the seal and a stainless grease nipple which gets a very occasional shot of grease. I have replaced the lip seal twice in 12 years but only as a precaution - it has never leaked one drop so we have totally dry bilges. Not sure who made this particular seal (came with the boat) but it does not look like a very expensive piece of kit to make. Having used the old packing type seals on other boats there is no way I would change back. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest 000 Posted December 18, 2015 Share Posted December 18, 2015 Chewing Gum, you have precisely described the shaft seal in my boat. Until I read your post I had assumed that my seal was a home made job. Also, like you, I have replaced the oil seal(?) once in five years, just as a precaution. Mine has never leasked a drop, either. There are no identifying marks on the shaft seal, and I would be interested to know its origins. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Pumbaa 9 Posted December 18, 2015 Share Posted December 18, 2015 I'm pretty sure they are an earlier model Kiwi shaft seal ours is 7 years old and it is working fine not a drop of water comes in. The new ones are stainless and it looks like they've dropped the grease nipple. http://www.kiwishaftseal.com/afa.asp?idWebPage=56814&CATID=10&ID=144&SID=116944999 I keep intending to ring them and check but I keep forgetting to, maybe posting this will jog my memory on Monday. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harrytom 648 Posted December 19, 2015 Share Posted December 19, 2015 I like the chatfield seal due to the fact if it should leak you can undo the flange bolts and pack with stuffing box material, Quote Link to post Share on other sites
erice 732 Posted January 9, 2016 Share Posted January 9, 2016 http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/boats-marine/parts-accessories/engine-parts/auction-1009709353.htm Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harrytom 648 Posted January 9, 2016 Share Posted January 9, 2016 now thats a steal buy now $100 so tempting when new they cost $500,but have new one + a spare Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harrytom 648 Posted January 9, 2016 Share Posted January 9, 2016 sold for $75 strange bit is used for 1 season/once fitted why take off Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jonathan 4 Posted January 17, 2016 Share Posted January 17, 2016 Where did you get this product Dripless Stuffing ? what is it? Also is there an online tutorial on aligning motor / shaft ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
erice 732 Posted January 17, 2016 Share Posted January 17, 2016 seems a pretty good explanation on alignment halfway down this page http://www.tb-training.co.uk/10sgear.htm Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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