Jump to content

Smart regulator connection to ignition switch


Recommended Posts

I’m fitting a zm5 smart reg from Graeme Polly,  installation instructions say to connect reg ignition terminal to the starter switch, motor is Yanmar 3ym 30, I’m unsure which terminal to connect to on the start switch, I’m assuming it needs current when key is in the run position, the wiring diagram in handbook is very small and hard to decipher

Link to post
Share on other sites

Is it a Type B panel?

Off the back of the key switch there should be 5 wires.   One of those wires goes to a 3amp fuse which powers the lights and alarms on the panel.  It could be a Red wire.

You should tap the ignition cct into that wire leading from the key to the 3amp fuse.  You should install your own fuse in the wire to the zm5.   5a would do, but if the manual specifies one specific do that.

You might even find another wire tapped into that cct if something has already been added that needs ignition cct, eg a fuel gauge or a flow alarm. If you do find one, follow it cause it could go to a relay, which would be a better place to power the ignition signal from.

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

You can also tap in at the alternator if that’s handier

There will be a feed from the ignition to the alt, just turn on the ignition but don’t start the engine, use a multi meter to find the terminal with power and use a double spade terminal from there.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Does the 3YM ignition power a fuel solenoid for key shutdown? If not, its good if you need extra power (say in reverse) being able to turn key off to depower external regulator. Be mindful though that this cuts power to your alarms. I do this sometimes in reverse. (3GM & Kiwi prop heavy reverse pitch) Only relevant if batteries are low and reverse prop loading at low revs.

Otherwise I would run an extra ext reg switch. (Good for as a instant field off.)

Does the ZM 5 have alternator temp control?

Link to post
Share on other sites
10 hours ago, Guest said:

Does the 3YM ignition power a fuel solenoid for key shutdown? If not, its good if you need extra power (say in reverse) being able to turn key off to depower external regulator. Be mindful though that this cuts power to your alarms. I do this sometimes in reverse. (3GM & Kiwi prop heavy reverse pitch) Only relevant if batteries are low and reverse prop loading at low revs.

Otherwise I would run an extra ext reg switch. (Good for as a instant field off.)

Does the ZM 5 have alternator temp control?

It also lacks battery temperature sensing. It is advertised as a drop in replacement for Ample Power Next Step regulators (no longer manufactured), but this is not strictly true.

For larger banks you need to look at regulator options such as Balmar, Wakespeed or Sterlingpro to get amongst other features battery and alternator temp sensing 

Link to post
Share on other sites

It doesn't need the temp sensors for either due to the algorithm. It is also how the thing can make the ALT produce more than it's rated current without cooking it.
Larger Banks.....well we have one here that is controlling a 140A ALT charging 1000AHrs of Battery Bank.

Link to post
Share on other sites

It is also how the thing can make the ALT produce more than it's rated current without cooking it."

 

Curious to how that works in terms of physics for a non hot- rated alternator without extra cooling, beefed up stators/fields, large frame type, etc?

For that to happen surely alt must be under-rated by manufacturer?

Not saying that Graeme isn't an inventive, talented (and helpful) guy.

As I understand, most do it by % reduction in field current as temp rises via sensor. Even hot-rated, for longevity.

  • Upvote 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

There is this on viewing his site:

"The motivation for updating the very successful ZM4 is to improve the reliability even better than users have experienced.

Over the 450 units produced we have analysed the failure modes and identified four items that have caused problems.

The ZM5 no longer has any of these four items.

Overvoltage and over temperature protection for various failure or connection issues are better protected in the new model.

A better design output stage uses MOSFET technology for better faster switching.

The ZM5 multi step charger can handle Bulk Absorption and Float stages with ease.

The ZM5 is suitable for Lead acid - Gel batteries - AGM batteries and LifeP04 Lithium battery banks

A direct replacement for the Ample Power Next Step regulator"

Link to post
Share on other sites

Bit of a hijack-sorry. But seeing as we are here................

He also is bringing out a LiFePO4 model where absorbtion can be adjusted down  to 10min.

Adds some redundancy to  HV field cutoffs, from say a victron BM712

Compared with MC614/618 its cheaper it sounds a  lot easier to configure. And 1/3 price of Wakespeed.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Definitely a hijack.  :)

Current sense termination is really the only sensible way to charge LFP. 

This ZM5 unit does not monitor current and it has no alternator temp sensing.  If it does not measure the temperature then it can not back off the output current and the alternator will cook itself if it gets to hot.

It's the same as running an engine without a temperature sensor/warning - it will be absolutely fine, until the day it isn't... :)

It sets the output voltage, holds it there for a set period of time once it is reached and then backs off to a float voltage after that time expires.  That's better than a standard voltage regulator, but it definitely is not smart. 

It looks like a perfectly good, basic, external regulator without the bells and whistles that the smart regulators have. 

 

  • Upvote 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

I thought similarly, but sent him a text to check if he had undisclosed tech to monitor alt temp on the ZM6. As in some other parameter alters with temp of stator  to signal throttle back of field. 

 Have to agree on the current sense method for defining the “knees” but WSpeed is out of my pay scale. So have to stick to voltage. Surprised the victon doesn’t do this as it has a shunt. 
Cheers.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Mods can you shift the thread from wherever it deviates from subject at hand please. Bit hard to tell exactly where as WP’ers essentially was how to power the ZM5 from ignition.

New thread “External regulators”

Apologies WP.

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

I am only charging 2 endurant 6 volt house, I think 200 amp hrs  and 1 start, with 150 watt solar aswell, so the Bosch 120 amp alt (from Graeme) shouldn’t be to stressed 

  • Upvote 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
44 minutes ago, Guest said:

I thought similarly, but sent him a text to check if he had undisclosed tech to monitor alt temp on the ZM6. As in some other parameter alters with temp of stator  to signal throttle back of field. 

 Have to agree on the current sense method for defining the “knees” but WSpeed is out of my pay scale. So have to stick to voltage. Surprised the victon doesn’t do this as it has a shunt. 
Cheers.

VRC-200 is a great choice if your alternator has remote voltage sensing.

Beats pretty much every external regulator hands down, except the Wakespeed.

The victron 712 is a completely different use case this isn't what it's designed for. It's going to be be counting amps on battery not the alternator.  You need dedicated shunts if you want to monitor the state of the battery and the charging current. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

OK, the first thing to understand is that there are two different ways to charge a battery. Either have a power supply that is somewhat "dumb" and the Temp sense and Voltage points, control the steps a charger changes stages at. Or the other way is, have an algorithm that more closely follows the charge Laws of Battery Chemistry's. The later is harder to do for all sorts of reasons and so the initial way is more the norm for most all manufactures.
Graeme is not the only one developing the Regulator. Graemes Son has done much of the physics and design of the algorithm they use. Many of you may not know, but Graeme's Son is a Scientist that works at the Cern Large Haydron Collider and they work together on the design when he has a lot of wating time during experiments. So the guy ain't no dummy.
Yes an Alternator in high output runs hot, but at the same time, switching the Alternator on and off at high frequency allows for the ALT to produce current with less on time. After playing with a controller, I have come to understand what is taking place. The MOSFET is not just turning the ALT full on and leaving it there and them ramping down as charge increases. It is doing some tricky switching.

Also to add, I don't have experience with Lithium, so my comments do not pertain to them. Only the Leadacid versions of Batteries.
 

Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, wheels said:

OK, the first thing to understand is that there are two different ways to charge a battery. Either have a power supply that is somewhat "dumb" and the Temp sense and Voltage points, control the steps a charger changes stages at. Or the other way is, have an algorithm that more closely follows the charge Laws of Battery Chemistry's. The later is harder to do for all sorts of reasons and so the initial way is more the norm for most all manufactures.
Graeme is not the only one developing the Regulator. Graemes Son has done much of the physics and design of the algorithm they use. Many of you may not know, but Graeme's Son is a Scientist that works at the Cern Large Haydron Collider and they work together on the design when he has a lot of wating time during experiments. So the guy ain't no dummy.
Yes an Alternator in high output runs hot, but at the same time, switching the Alternator on and off at high frequency allows for the ALT to produce current with less on time. After playing with a controller, I have come to understand what is taking place. The MOSFET is not just turning the ALT full on and leaving it there and them ramping down as charge increases. It is doing some tricky switching.

Also to add, I don't have experience with Lithium, so my comments do not pertain to them. Only the Leadacid versions of Batteries.
 

That's smoke and mirrors.

However you're the one making the claims, not the manufacturer.   They simply claim the unit works like any other non temperature sensed voltage regulator. 

This unit is a perfect basic regulator that doesn't make any fanciful claims about its performance or capabilities. If I had a need for one, then I would certainly consider this unit. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...