Zozza 316 Posted May 17, 2023 Author Share Posted May 17, 2023 5 hours ago, waikiore said: Is she one of the Keith Atkinson built Holman boats? No. This one sailed out from the UK in early 90’s by a solo sailor Quote Link to post Share on other sites
LE Bb 25 Posted May 17, 2023 Share Posted May 17, 2023 so what we can see in your photo was just floor lands ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aashi 0 Posted May 17, 2023 Share Posted May 17, 2023 On 15/05/2023 at 12:39 PM, aardvarkash10 said: I'm picking that the total amount of material is not enough to make either weight or price material overall. I'd use just one so you can match the tone throughout. If you are painting, just choose the best grade (no voids, no fill). Hi friend According to what I gather, the material might not be able to satisfy the demands for weight and cost factors. It is best to choose a single material grade without any voids or fill for painting purposes in order to preserve uniformity in tone.networth Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Zozza 316 Posted May 17, 2023 Author Share Posted May 17, 2023 1 hour ago, LE Bb said: so what we can see in your photo was just floor lands ? Lands? Not sure what you mean. when i cut out the integral water tank, we what is left is what you see in the photo - the keel with no athwartship structural floors supporting the enscapulated keel to the hull… Quote Link to post Share on other sites
LE Bb 25 Posted May 17, 2023 Share Posted May 17, 2023 see where circles are to get the jist of where im questioning Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Zozza 316 Posted May 17, 2023 Author Share Posted May 17, 2023 37 minutes ago, LE Bb said: see where circles are to get the jist of where im questioning Ah right, they were thin little bulkheads separating various parts of the water tanks...couple taps of the hammer and they broke off.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Zozza 316 Posted May 17, 2023 Author Share Posted May 17, 2023 ...they were definitely not structural Seems I should be using 'real wood' not ply for structural floors when I do eventually glass them in? 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Black Panther 1,670 Posted May 18, 2023 Share Posted May 18, 2023 Yes, those were probably just baffles for the water tank 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Zozza 316 Posted May 18, 2023 Author Share Posted May 18, 2023 9 hours ago, Black Panther said: Yes, those were probably just baffles for the water tank Correct - 'baffles' - that is the word I was looking for instead of them little thin 'mini bulkheads'! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
loganmiller9 0 Posted June 5, 2023 Share Posted June 5, 2023 Hi Guys, Both Okoume Joubert and Meranti plywood are popular choices for boat interiors. Consider your budget, desired aesthetics, and durability to make the best decision for your specific needs. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aliyaaii 0 Posted August 13, 2023 Share Posted August 13, 2023 On 17/05/2023 at 8:46 AM, Zozza said: when i cut out the integral water tank, we what is left is what you see in the photo - the keel with no athwartship structural floors supporting the enscapulated keel to the hull… Removing the integral water tank reveals a keel lacking athwartship structural floors, which traditionally support the encapsulated keel to the hull. This alteration might have implications for the vessel's structural integrity and stability. freefirename Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Zozza 316 Posted August 13, 2023 Author Share Posted August 13, 2023 8 hours ago, Aliyaaii said: Removing the integral water tank reveals a keel lacking athwartship structural floors, which traditionally support the encapsulated keel to the hull. This alteration might have implications for the vessel's structural integrity and stability. freefirename Correct. Structural floors will be glassed in now that the bilge water tank has been removed. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Valentina589 0 Posted December 29, 2023 Share Posted December 29, 2023 Hi Guys, Choosing between Okoume Joubert and Meranti plywood for a new boat interior depends on your specific needs. Okoume Joubert is known for its lightweight and durable qualities, ideal for marine applications. Meranti plywood is more affordable but slightly heavier. Consider your budget, weight requirements, and intended use to make the best decision. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Frank 157 Posted December 29, 2023 Share Posted December 29, 2023 On 16/05/2023 at 12:36 PM, Psyche said: look for even plys and plenty of them, Joubert Gaboon is reliable and dont worry about price as its not a giant Spencer! Dont be afraid to go though the pile and pick out the pretty faces. Just make sure you coat the end grain with a couple of good coats of epoxy, in the interior varnish on the faces is fine, no need to epoxy the lot unless you really want to. the only there caveat is any potential water traps absolutely need to be epoxied. Some people roll a few coats of epoxy on the whole sheet before cutting, uses a bit more but much easier to finish on the flat and less tearout Agree with all above, IMO Joubert Gaboon (Okume) is of excellent quality and is easy to work with its also less work to finish as it has a tight grain. Meranti is OK but heavier and more coarse grained with a tendency to splinter on the edge so I much prefer Gaboon. There is a lot of absolute rubbish out there and some of it not so cheap either so don't muck around and buy quality from a reputable supplier. I use Plytech but there are others just as good. Last time I was there buying 6mm Okoume for the camper van I got lucky and scored the stack skin as a freebie Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Frank 157 Posted December 29, 2023 Share Posted December 29, 2023 On 14/08/2023 at 5:34 AM, Zozza said: Correct. Structural floors will be glassed in now that the bilge water tank has been removed. Apologies for stating the obvious but do use a solid wood core for those floors . Incidentally our Hood 38 has a fully encapsulated keel and there are no floors as far as I can tell but then the hull thickness is in the order of 40 mm or more at the turn of the bilge. She was built in 1986 and has spent most of her life offshore, last time I checked the keel was still there https://sailboatdata.com/sailboat/hood-38-wauquiez/ 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Zozza 316 Posted April 21 Author Share Posted April 21 Another question: Why do you think someone recommended in this thread that the athwartships structural floor beams that will span my bilge and tie everything in post removal of the glassed in integral water tank -- why should these be solid wood over plywood? I am going to glue and glass them in, so I am interest why they should be solid would. A boat-builder friend, albeit a DIY boatbuilder rather than a commercial one, reckons plywood will be fine and actually stronger, and it is going to all glassed in, so no need for solid wood. It is a GRP constructed boat from the the early 1970's btw Thoughts Crew team? ps. I went with Meranti 18mm for the bulkheads, and Okume Joubert 9mm for the rest of the interior rebuild. Cheers Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest 109 Posted April 29 Share Posted April 29 Because for a specific scantling (thickness) you would require approximately twice the thickness of ply to achieve the same stiffness. Comparable timber of course. All to do with +_90degree orientation of grain. This is only when the strength is in the floor, not in the composite, (timber and encapsulating laminate) where the timber is a non-compressible spacer. I have David Gerrs “Elements of boat strength” if you care to borrow it. I redid my athwartship floors when I replanked my boat. 120x75 virgin old growth Kauri, 1/4 sawn to vertical face. Tom McNaughtons scantlings. (Commissioned) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest 109 Posted April 29 Share Posted April 29 Didn’t read your post thoroughly. As long as your glass layup conforms to the wood plus glass specification in terms of crossection you will be fine. But solid wood in that configuration will be stiffer for same dimension . (With the grain athwartship.) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Zozza 316 Posted April 29 Author Share Posted April 29 5 hours ago, Guest said: Didn’t read your post thoroughly. As long as your glass layup conforms to the wood plus glass specification in terms of crossection you will be fine. But solid wood in that configuration will be stiffer for same dimension . (With the grain athwartship.) As far as glass will be using 45/45 ibaxial 600 gsm with the chopped strand mat on one side. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest 109 Posted April 29 Share Posted April 29 As Frank inferred; The hull thickness and designed floor structural grid work in concert with the type of keel fixing. From a quick google; yours is GRP then it has an ENCAPSULATED keel. Wood Twisters would have decent floors and keel bolts. Holman must have decided to beef (hull thickness) the turn of bilge to keel to the point little was needed ITO floors. That was/were the "baffles" you removed. Tying the two sides of the keel faces would be nice, and you need support for sole so have at it using Psyche's ply saturation and tabbing. Hopefully you are using epoxy. 45/45 and one uni = good, csm not so good. Avoid use csm with epoxy. Csm is for rubbish bins and dog kennels. My floors were glassed right over with 1200+gm/m2 in tri-axial config, but they had KB's coming thru and acted as structural grid. Disclaimer: I have studied this at length, and completely rebuilt my own boat but are not a NA. 1 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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