Okoume Joubert or Meranti plywood for new boat interior?

[Zozza 351]

5 hours ago, waikiore said:

Is she one of the Keith Atkinson built Holman boats?

No. This one sailed out from the UK in early 90’s by a solo sailor 

[LE Bb 31]

so what we can see in your photo was just floor lands ?

[Aashi 0]

On 15/05/2023 at 12:39 PM, aardvarkash10 said:

I'm picking that the total amount of material is not enough to make either weight or price material overall.

I'd use just one so you can match the tone throughout.  If you are painting, just choose the best grade (no voids, no fill).

Hi friend

According to what I gather, the material might not be able to satisfy the demands for weight and cost factors. It is best to choose a single material grade without any voids or fill for painting purposes in order to preserve uniformity in tone.networth

[Zozza 351]

1 hour ago, LE Bb said:

so what we can see in your photo was just floor lands ?

Lands?  Not sure what you mean.

when i cut out the integral water tank, we what is left is what you see in the photo - the keel with no athwartship structural floors supporting the enscapulated keel to the hull…

[LE Bb 31]

see where circles are to get the jist of where im questioning

[Zozza 351]

37 minutes ago, LE Bb said:

see where circles are to get the jist of where im questioning

Ah right, they were thin little bulkheads separating various parts of the water tanks...couple taps of the hammer and they broke off..

[Zozza 351]

...they were definitely not structural

Seems I should be using 'real wood' not ply for structural floors when I do eventually glass them in?

[Black Panther 1,765]

Yes, those were probably just baffles for the water tank

[Zozza 351]

9 hours ago, Black Panther said:

Yes, those were probably just baffles for the water tank

Correct - 'baffles' - that is the word I was looking for instead of them little thin 'mini bulkheads'!

[loganmiller9 0]

Hi Guys, Both Okoume Joubert and Meranti plywood are popular choices for boat interiors. Consider your budget, desired aesthetics, and durability to make the best decision for your specific needs.

[Aliyaaii 0]

On 17/05/2023 at 8:46 AM, Zozza said:

when i cut out the integral water tank, we what is left is what you see in the photo - the keel with no athwartship structural floors supporting the enscapulated keel to the hull…

Removing the integral water tank reveals a keel lacking athwartship structural floors, which traditionally support the encapsulated keel to the hull. This alteration might have implications for the vessel's structural integrity and stability. freefirename

[Zozza 351]

8 hours ago, Aliyaaii said:

Removing the integral water tank reveals a keel lacking athwartship structural floors, which traditionally support the encapsulated keel to the hull. This alteration might have implications for the vessel's structural integrity and stability. freefirename

Correct.  Structural floors will be glassed in now that the bilge water tank has been removed.

[Valentina589 0]

Hi Guys,

Choosing between Okoume Joubert and Meranti plywood for a new boat interior depends on your specific needs. Okoume Joubert is known for its lightweight and durable qualities, ideal for marine applications. Meranti plywood is more affordable but slightly heavier. Consider your budget, weight requirements, and intended use to make the best decision.

[Frank 166]

On 16/05/2023 at 12:36 PM, Psyche said:

look for even plys and plenty of them, Joubert Gaboon is reliable and dont worry about price as its not a giant Spencer! Dont be afraid to go though the pile and pick out the pretty faces. Just make sure you coat the end grain with a couple of good coats of epoxy, in the interior varnish on the faces is fine, no need to epoxy the lot unless you really want to. the only there caveat is any potential water traps absolutely need to be epoxied. Some people roll a few coats of epoxy on the whole sheet before cutting, uses a bit more but much easier to finish on the flat and less tearout

Agree with all above, IMO Joubert Gaboon (Okume) is of excellent quality and is easy to work with its also less work to finish as it has a  tight grain. Meranti is OK but  heavier and more coarse  grained with a tendency to splinter on the edge so I much prefer Gaboon.

There is a lot of absolute rubbish out there and some of it not so cheap either so don't muck around and buy quality from a reputable supplier. I use Plytech but there are others just as good.  Last time I was there buying 6mm Okoume for the camper van I got lucky and scored the stack skin as a freebie

[Frank 166]

On 14/08/2023 at 5:34 AM, Zozza said:

Correct.  Structural floors will be glassed in now that the bilge water tank has been removed.

Apologies for stating the obvious but do use a solid wood core for those floors .  Incidentally our Hood 38 has a fully encapsulated keel and there are no floors as far as I can tell but then the hull thickness is in the order of 40 mm or more  at the turn of the bilge. She was built in 1986 and has spent most of her life offshore, last time I checked the keel was still there

https://sailboatdata.com/sailboat/hood-38-wauquiez/

[Zozza 351]

Another question:  Why do you think someone recommended in this thread that the athwartships structural floor beams that will span my bilge and tie everything in post removal of the glassed in integral water tank -- why should these be solid wood over plywood?  I am going to glue and glass them in, so I am interest why they should be solid would.  A boat-builder friend, albeit a DIY boatbuilder rather than a commercial one, reckons plywood will be fine and actually stronger, and it is going to all glassed in, so no need for solid wood.

It is a GRP constructed boat from the the early 1970's btw

Thoughts Crew team?

ps.  I went with Meranti 18mm for the bulkheads, and Okume Joubert 9mm for the rest of the interior rebuild.

Cheers

[Guest 132]

Because for a specific scantling  (thickness) you would require approximately twice the thickness of ply to achieve the same stiffness. Comparable timber of course. All to do with +_90degree orientation of grain.  
This is only when the strength is in the floor, not in the composite, (timber and encapsulating laminate) where the timber is a non-compressible spacer. I have David Gerrs “Elements of boat strength” if you care to borrow it.

I redid my athwartship floors when I replanked my boat. 120x75 virgin old growth Kauri, 1/4 sawn to vertical face.

Tom McNaughtons scantlings. (Commissioned)

 

[Guest 132]

Didn’t read  your post thoroughly. As long as your glass layup conforms to the wood plus glass specification in terms of crossection you will be fine. But solid wood in that configuration will be stiffer for same dimension . (With the  grain athwartship.)

[Zozza 351]

5 hours ago, Guest said:

Didn’t read  your post thoroughly. As long as your glass layup conforms to the wood plus glass specification in terms of crossection you will be fine. But solid wood in that configuration will be stiffer for same dimension . (With the  grain athwartship.)

As far as glass will be using 45/45 ibaxial 600 gsm with the chopped strand mat on one side.

[Guest 132]

As Frank inferred; The hull thickness and designed floor structural grid work in concert with the type of keel fixing.

From a quick google;  yours is GRP then it has an  ENCAPSULATED keel. Wood Twisters would have decent floors and keel bolts.

Holman must have decided to beef (hull thickness) the turn of bilge to keel to the point little was needed ITO floors. That was/were the "baffles"

you removed. Tying the two sides of the keel faces would be nice, and you need support for sole so have at it using Psyche's ply saturation and tabbing.

Hopefully you are using epoxy. 45/45 and one uni = good, csm not so good. Avoid use csm with epoxy. Csm is for rubbish bins and dog kennels.

My floors were glassed right over with 1200+gm/m2 in tri-axial config, but they had KB's coming thru and acted as structural grid.

Disclaimer: I have studied this at length, and completely rebuilt my own boat but are not a NA.