LE Bb

forestay tang and forstay aren't inline originally there was an anchour fitting welded to the tang and bolted through the deck. which mostlikely would have kepted it fwd. Now the tang has tryed to align itself with the forstay - pulling aft through the deck and peeling the studs out of the stem. mostlikely do a new aligned tang that letterboxes through the stem with a welded end plate and bolts

nz figerjointed pine shouldn't be allowed anywhere near a marine inviroment.

The carbon won't be the problem, it will be pine flexing/crushing under it. then causing the carbon to compress. Idealy you would have a denser timber strip where the carbon is going, like yellow cedar, mahogany, Kauri .... You will get away with pine or western red cedar for the nose and trailing edge A lot of dinghys have one or two layers of carbon uni ( 300g ) you may want to go 3 or 4 Then a minimum of 295/300g glass over the whloe thing ( 2 layers of 200g boatcloth may be an easy option )

It comes down to the inspectors insurance level. I surveyor has done some training/courses and is reconised by there public liability insurances. A boatbuilder cannot typically use the word Survey because of it's legal obligations, and typically their liability isurances wont allow it. A lot of boatbuilders are recognised with the local insurace companys for inspection purposes, and bi-annual condition reports.

We have a mainsail here off a tennant trimaran, it's slightly higher in the hoist but very similar on the foot. I should be seeing the owner in the next couple of weeks and coud ask if he still wants it. Try sailing with the rudders up 200mm then 400m and see if it gets better or worse. the rudders can be modifyed but you will need a baseline...

Weed on keel for over a day this leg, and in last leg nigle banged his head pretty bad, and has been struggling this leg. But all credit to the entertiner sailied a faultless two legs and went the best ways. and start me up only a few boatlenghts behing for leg two. from personal experince when it's light and the tide is against you through the Channel Is area you get left behing very quickly

Durepox is the best adheiring paints we have ever used, kind of a one hit wonder. The only down fall is antifouling doesn't like sticking to it, but primercon fixes that. Yes it's a urethane, so it doesn't yellow like epoxy primers.

Durepox with accelerator goes pretty hard and durable, gelcoat or flowcoats are a pain in the arse. you could also try duratec from ATL

mek ... it may take awhile

forgot to reply yesterday. went through at 1550 yesterday and had 3.5mts at shallowest.

Fyi in the video above the heating is the key. the alloy tube expands with the heat, as it cools it srinks back again more than the carbon. doesn't work on a pvc mandrel

ptfe film ( teflon ) is whats used now ... not cheap but it works The old way was to wrap mylar film around the tube, then tape another one over that but independant so it would slide off. for what your trying to do you i would suggest that you glass around the tube but place somthing like holey plastic between the join. this will allow you to peel it of then glue it back together. See pic Green = tube , Black carbon, Red holey plastic

broken battern cars - you can see it in the start photos. main leech ripping .... hopefully all fixed

I drew some up for a mate a few years back, foils have got a bit better since then. Structure hasn't really changed much. Pm me if you want to know more

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