Composite stanchions

[Kiteroa 8]

I've gone for composite stanchions on WT this time. The top end has a machined metal insert with a rounded top with and hole for the wire, and the bottom end sockets directly into the hull. But i'm yet to find a nice solution for the intermediate wire. I'd really like to have the intermediate in dynex in discontinuous lengths spliced at each end around the stanchion tude. So each span of dynex is a seperate piece of line. Know what I mean? This also means I only have to have a small retainer on each stanchion to locate the line at the right height, not a hole right through. This would also reduce chafe where the lines have to deflect to follow the deck curve and if for whatever reason a line breaks, only one section is lost, not the whole side as you would with a continuous single length wire setup

 

Am I missing something in the safety regs that makes this method non compliant?

[BvanVugt 0]

Someone on here will probably tell you before ive had time to look at my yachting NZ book, but i think they say it must be a continuious rope/wire.

 

Will get back to you tonight if no-one else has by that time

[Battleship 100]

I thought composite stanchions weren't legal only steel or fibreglass, the regulations are available online here http://www.yachtingnz.org.nz/CMSContent.aspx?PageID=90e9a94d-8d09-4af4-a116-33a4fbd5981e pages 63 and 64 deal with lifelines and stanchions, boats with an age date 1987 or newer cannot have carbon, can't see anything about lifeline length, there is also a separate amendment (September 2010) allowing synthetic line to be used.

[chic014 0]

Last time I checked fibreglass was a composite....

 

But would wonder why they trust fibreglass but not carbon if thats what you mean?

[ec12nz 1]

For yachts with an Age Date of 1 January

1987 or later, stanchions, pulpits and

lifelines shall not be made of carbon fibre.

Stanchions may be fibreglass or alloy, but

shall not be weaker than similar stanchions

of stainless steel.

 

The key words are the the last 2 lines above. How do yuo measure that though?

[Kiteroa 8]

You're right, carbon isn't allowed. Although aramid or glass are both composites but are within the rules. It's fair enough that carbon tubes are not allowed. They would be too stiff and not forgiving enough so would probably break the boat socket connection if they got a good whack. These glass ones, while not much lighter than stainless are really tough and resilient to damage.

 

Thing is, WT like Positive Touch, is actually an old boat. So would just about scrape in under the 1987 rule anyway.

[Battleship 100]

Carbon tends to shatter and splinter becoming very dangerous, like the ones on Orbit, fibreglass is a lot more flexible and will bend a long way before breaking. Yes I guess fibreglass is composite I just always imagined composite to mean something more exotic.

[chic014 0]

True. It just surprises me that they don't define the material in terms of some quantifiable number. Strength, Modulus, Strain to Failure, Toughness etc.

[Kiteroa 8]

The glass ones I’m using are C-Spar fibreglass jobbies. 28mm at the base, 12mm at the top. The wall would be about 5mm thick. They are grunty as but still reasonably bendy. With 80kg pulling at right angles from the tip, they deflect about 60mm. I would say a stainless one would probably fail at that load.

[Battleship 100]

http://csparnz.com/why-composite-stanchions/

Nice, what is the cost like compared to satainless?

[Battleship 100]

never mind found the price list on the site

[Guest]

I'd really like to have the intermediate in dynex in discontinuous lengths spliced at each end around the stanchion tude. So each span of dynex is a seperate piece of line. Know what I mean? This also means I only have to have a small retainer on each stanchion to locate the line at the right height, not a hole right through. This would also reduce chafe where the lines have to deflect to follow the deck curve and if for whatever reason a line breaks, only one section is lost, not the whole side as you would with a continuous single length wire setup

 

Am I missing something in the safety regs that makes this method non compliant?

Yes, using straight dyneema (which Dynex is brand name of 100's all pretty much the same) is illegal. The fibre lines must be over braided i.e. a double braid.

 

Which raises another issue which isn't so much a legality one more one the users of the boat should be aware of. The Regs say you need a 4mm (or 3mm or a 5mm depending on boat length, I think your a 4mm though) so if you buy say a Superbraid (a Donaghys made polyester cover over a dyneema core) in reality you really only have a 3mm, at best, load member i.e. the strength bit that any crew member will be hanging off should something go tits up. That isn't massively strong at all.

 

I've been wanting to go fibre also but that above bit has been a personal worry. I'm knot intending to fall off but if I do I'd like the lifelines to act like lifelines. Also I think if you use a Superbraid like product it'll also be pretty good at shaving skin off should you fall on it, I like my skin attached. But I've found a rope I am going to use which both fully complies with the Regs and my personal issues. It flew in the other day and it's sexy as and I'm very happy it'll be the ducks knuts.

 

So as we see it fibre lifelines are easily doable but as long as you are aware of a few things, read the Regs properly and know what exactly you are putting on.

[PaulR 3]

Speak to Michael Churchhouse, YNZ Chief Safety Inspector.

[Rafin 2]

I think Orbit had a special dispensation to allow carbon fibre stanchions, arrived in Tauranga after Easter race with one smashed. Not much point in having lifelines if they won't do the job.

[Kiteroa 8]

Yeah, you don't look so flash treading water with a broken stanchion still in your hand! Would be interesting to see how they managed to get that disspensation! The rules are pretty clear on that point.