DrWatson 375 Posted June 5, 2012 Share Posted June 5, 2012 I heard somewhere that galvanized rigging can be stronger, lighter and cheaper than sst, but that it doesn't last as long/ looks cheap. Does sst fatigue more than galvanised steel? Can anyone here give me the objective pros and cons on this? Especially things like swaging and clamping options and if your mast hardware and chainplates are sst, is it an issue to attach galvanized fittings/rigging to them? Electrolysis? I guess you kinda want your forestay sst to prevent the galvanising being worn off by the hanks. Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted June 5, 2012 Share Posted June 5, 2012 I had new stainless rigging done a few years back and the bloody things rusting up already They must have used that Chinese cr@p Link to post Share on other sites
Steve Pope 243 Posted June 5, 2012 Share Posted June 5, 2012 Size for size galvanised and SS have the same basic strength, Good quality galvanised wire will out last good quality SS wire several times as long as you are prepared to look after and maintain it. Apparently most insurance Co's now have a sunset clause on SS rigging which means that it has to be replaced to ensure that your rig is covered, the 1st reason for its short life span, the 2nd is that it has a propensity to break without any warning whereas Galv will show signs of rust, and individual strands breaking and spragging long before it eventually lets go. I know of a 46 footer that has circumnavigated twice that still had the same the same galvanised rigging when she was sold in the UK after at least 25 years. Just remember Galvanised rigging was what everyone used before SS came along. SS's main claim to fame "No maintenance" Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted June 5, 2012 Share Posted June 5, 2012 Pretty much what Steve said, Galv is as strong in cases stronger, lighter, will last longer and often shows better signs it's about to go BING in the bad sense. Also a lot cheaper. Electrolysis needs something to help it along ie salt water. So rigging terminals get wet it may, note may, be a long term issue but as soon as they dry out anything that may, note may, have been happening stops. It's knot a concern from anything I've heard. Yeap, on the forestay. I had new stainless rigging done a few years back and the bloody things rusting up already They must have used that Chinese cr@p What all pretty much used to be high grade SS here is now pretty much all lower grade asian. Knot only has the quality dropped but so have the loads. 17-70 used to be the standard, now that's more like 15-40. But then your rusting could just be a maintenance issue or where you park the boat or other assorted factors........ but it's probably knot Link to post Share on other sites
rigger 47 Posted June 5, 2012 Share Posted June 5, 2012 Last year I was involved in the replacement of all standing rigging on a small square rigger. The rigging we replaced was 30years old, I believe that most of the wire could be reused - that is the ends cut off and respliced to suit the shorter wires. We replaced the rigging as a precaution as there were concerns in places. The new gear will hopefully last 30-50years. Link to post Share on other sites
DrWatson 375 Posted June 5, 2012 Author Share Posted June 5, 2012 Last year I was involved in the replacement of all standing rigging on a small square rigger.The rigging we replaced was 30years old, I believe that most of the wire could be reused - that is the ends cut off and respliced to suit the shorter wires. We replaced the rigging as a precaution as there were concerns in places. The new gear will hopefully last 30-50years. I'm guessing the rigging was galvanized in this example. Can one simply use the same kind of ferrules for swaging? Or is it better to use something else like the U-bolt clamps? It seems then that the only reason we use stainless is the supposed lower maintenance and for aesthetic reasons. I say supposed because it seems that the stainless will need replacing long before the galvanized. Thanks for the advice. Link to post Share on other sites
rigger 47 Posted June 5, 2012 Share Posted June 5, 2012 Yes it was galvanised. The original rigging was a mix of spliced eyes and seized eyes. I would recommend getting it spliced (or do it yourself) and then parcel & serve over the splice. I would avoid swaging (with galv wire) as they are normally an alli alloy and you may end up with little batteries everywhere, also the tend to look a bit ugly, not to mention I have seen some fittings at deck level and on the head gear need replacing after less than 10years due to corrosion. Ideally you parcel and serve the eye before splicing, splice eye then worm (if needed) parcel & serve over the splice. We had entire wires served full length where nothing was riding on them. BTW - worst condition wire was the main stay due to sail hanks running up and down - still lasted 30 odd years. Link to post Share on other sites
wheels 543 Posted June 5, 2012 Share Posted June 5, 2012 It seems then that the only reason we use stainless is the supposed lower maintenance and for aesthetic reasons. Aesthetics only. Maintenance is indeed supposed. Galv looked after will out last the boat. Simple to look after. Just drop some lanicote or similar into the terminal every now and then. the issue with SST is cyclic loading and the fact it can look great up till the day it fails. And it fails with a bang. Glav will loose a wire or two as a warning. the rust on SST is called "tea staining". It is normal on new rigging. Simply get some rust stain remover from a chandlery and clean. Tea staining comes from the fact that it is impossible not to contaminate the surface with steel while in workshops and swaging. Steel only ever needs to touch the SST to contaminate it. Once cleaned it should not rust again. Rust is an enemy to SST because it stops the Chrome from doing it's protective job. Link to post Share on other sites
DrWatson 375 Posted June 5, 2012 Author Share Posted June 5, 2012 Thanks for the great professional info, Guys. Galvanized it will be, and bugger the aesthetics - personally I don't mind it. Looks honest to me. I'm glad to have access to a wealth of information from people who's opinions and knowledge I trust. Link to post Share on other sites
John B 106 Posted June 5, 2012 Share Posted June 5, 2012 Galvanised has more stretch if I recall rightly. So you'd be setting up at the ends of your bottle screws initially, with plenty of scope for wearing it in. Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted June 5, 2012 Share Posted June 5, 2012 There are alloy, copper and SS ferrals out there. You can extend the life on galv by keeping it lubed or if it's a dry one just paint it with a metal primer. Let it weather 1st though, a bit like new corrugated iron. Link to post Share on other sites
Megwyn 2 Posted June 5, 2012 Share Posted June 5, 2012 I'm glad to have access to a wealth of information from people who's opinions and knowledge I trust. I concur Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted June 5, 2012 Share Posted June 5, 2012 galv wire rigging both standing and running will, with proper care and assembly, outlast and out perform stainless, galv is certainly more forgiving in a halyard scenario (7x19) though you are limited with regard to terminating it, ie talurit, splice(best) or a seizing, those bulldog grips belong on earth movers and even then there is an art to using them, tight-tighter-tightest working away from the eye/ loop/ whatever never use them singularly or joining 2 wires, talurits are aluminium never copper, for seizeing use maleable galv wire (clothes line wire is perfect)and as far as I know there is still no splice for 1x19 wire longevity can be attained in a few ways, parcel and serve or hotgrease dip amongst others, the hotgrease involves dumping the coil of wire into a pot filled with grease ( think harder grade lanocote here) just above melting point (40 odd deg) and leave it there for a couple of hours to penetrate, remove and cool, then thoroughly wipe with a turpsy rag(petrol works well but a bit of a worry boom wise) and make up eyes lengths etc from there,it does pay to give it another wipe after setting up to remove grease etc but the core will remain covered/ protected. Done a few motorscrapers and cranes (along with a Y11) using this and worked a treat. Wouldnt bother with parcel and serve below 3/8" dia and it's a bit of a messy operation however the smell of spunyarn and stockholm tar is about as headily nautical as it gets but a bugger to get off after Link to post Share on other sites
Steve Pope 243 Posted June 5, 2012 Share Posted June 5, 2012 Boiled linseed oil used to be the go with protecting galv wire, allow it to soak for a day or 3, hang to drain / dry, it sets with a reasonably tough coating that is dry to the touch, redo as required. It is better than lanoline / lanocote as this will stay oily to the touch and if you are heading to the tropics or perhaps just a hot sunny day here any surplus will start to run out of the stay and end up on the deck. Link to post Share on other sites
Fogg 427 Posted June 6, 2012 Share Posted June 6, 2012 I'm glad to have access to a wealth of information from people who's opinions and knowledge I trust. You trust this lot? Ever met any of 'em? Link to post Share on other sites
DrWatson 375 Posted June 6, 2012 Author Share Posted June 6, 2012 I'm glad to have access to a wealth of information from people who's opinions and knowledge I trust. You trust this lot? Ever met any of 'em? To be sure, I've not met anyone from this forum in the flesh, but I have had some dealings with some. Wheels, for instance, has made me some fabulous stanchions which I hope to put to good use - eventually. I hope that I might meet some of you forumites this Dec when we're back in NZ. Maybe my lady and I can take part in the end of year rum race and finally put faces to the names! Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted June 8, 2012 Share Posted June 8, 2012 Does galvanised wire come in 1 by 19? Or are there choices?What is best for 3/8 or smaller?Can you use nickle plated copper oval swages or is that a copper/steel corrosion problem?Are there different grades of steel used in galv wire?I can vaguely recall some kind of spring steel being best but I dont know if they still make it. Link to post Share on other sites
rigger 47 Posted June 8, 2012 Share Posted June 8, 2012 talk to the folks at cookes. Last little job used 13mm 7x7 (wire core), high tensile from memory, liverpool splice. Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted June 8, 2012 Share Posted June 8, 2012 Yeap 1x19 is made as are a LOT of other formations. I'd stick to alloy ferrals, if they are OK for cranes lifting 20t over your head they'll be OK for boats. Mate has galv rigging with alloy ends, now 20 years old and still looks fine... bar the forestay and inner due to hanks sliding up and down them. As Rigger said speak what is now called Bridon. Just watch who you chat too, we have noticed there is one or 2 a bit short on knowledge of some products but there are some with enough to blow your head to pieces. Opps, hang on. There isn't a Bridon where you are. If you are heading this way email them. Where you are I'd probably go looking for a lifting gear specialist, the mobs that supply stuff to cranes and things like that. Most of those I know have presses so can swage the ends as well so all you'd have to do is give them a finished length. I'd think most yacht riggers aren't old enough to remember the days galv was the ducks knuts Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted June 9, 2012 Share Posted June 9, 2012 From a rust point of view would 1 by 19 be best?Less strands equals less opportunity for rust? I wont be needing new rigging for a while but just trying to bring out all the factors for anyone looking at it. Link to post Share on other sites
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