Little Boat Keel Refurbishment

[Guest]

Hi

 

This is my first post so I will start by intorducing myself. My name is Callum and I own a little Variant Fin Keeler based in Okahu bay.

 

I've owned this little Variant just shy of two years now. It was in average to poor condition when I bought it with the intention of a frugal restoration. I replaced the rigging straight away (trucking the mast home on my mates car trailer, bit dodgy). Replaced some core rot (pretty easy job, surprisingly little in a 40 year boat, Ive decided the internet likes to scaremonger about balsa), repainted with altex 321 (looks sprayed for ~$400 worth of undercoat, topcoat, brushes etc. Lots of sanding required) and now I would like to remove and remount the keel (there is no movement currently, not even a crack).

 

There are a number of reasons I want to do this.

1) Experience, I like engenering projects.

2) The keel nuts are corroded to the point they cant be replaced.

3) The crossmembers are steel and constantly rust, i'd prefer wood with galvanised support.

4) Peace of mind. I enjoy long distance trips.

 

So my question...

 

Does anyone have any suggestions on how I go about rasing the boat safely and transporting the keel safely within Auckland?

 

The boat apparently weighs 1.5 tons. 500kg in the keel alone.

 

Frugal recommendations please!! I dont want to go cheap or unsafe but I dont need a million dollars invested in a variant either

 

And finally some pictures because threads are more fun with pictures.

 

Thanks Callum

[Deep Purple 512]

Very pretty

[w44vi 17]

I helped (watched) a friend remove his keel, he removed the nuts then drilled down the nuts to the lead, then used the marina travel lift to rase the boat (with such a light boat you should be able to use a truck with a hiab) lift it so the keel is 50 mm above the ground, then start cutting the sealant, we had to cut 2/3 of the sealant before it dropped, if you need to move the keel pop it on a car trailer with the hiab truck

[PaulR 3]

Lots of big blocks of solid wood, a bucket full of assorted packers wedges and off cuts and a simple bottle jack. The slowly a ittle jack here, there and elsewhere will lift the boat slowly but safely and surely. We used to use planks and oil drums but that was before OSH etc.

 

The real problem is catching the keel, so it does not fall over. Many boatyards have a frame they can bolt together around a keel with good side braces. If there is a straddle lift, then it is very easy, assemble frame around keel, undo keel bolts and lift off hull. Put boat in another cradle, lift keel & frame off cradle with fork hoist or straddle lift onto a truck or strong trailer.

 

So have a wander around the boat yards and talk to the staff who have all done it many times before. It looks like you are hauled out at Okahu Bay Landing out so all nice and flat with easy access, but no boat building yard on site. However many boats are serviced by mobile boatbuilders.

 

Then add in large hammers . . . when nothing moves . .

 

Alternatively there may be an easier way to remove the keel bolt nuts using the much larger socket sets boat builders have, rather than a small home use socket set, nut splitters and other torture implements.

[Guest]

Thanks.

 

Okahu has a travel lift but I'm afraid the cost will push the project into the not finacially viable arena. The raw product to remove and rebed the keel should be very very cheap (bolts, epoxy etc) but the cost could easily sky-rocket if I start hiring people and their equipment.

 

I'm was looking for methods like the bottle jack one you describe. Possibly in a cradle designed for this kind of work or something like that. At this point im unsure and looking for ideas andd brain storming. What did people do before the travel lift and the hiab?

 

What ever method is chose i'd still have the issue of aligning the keel when its remounted. I was thinking of using identical length ratchet ties downs and tightening the side I want to 'swing' the keel. Other methods welcome...

[PaulR 3]

What did people do before the travel lift and the hiab?

 

Oil drums. planks and big wedges, and little pump up bottle jacks, a few inches at a time.

 

Actually surprisingly quick. with 2 or 3 bottle jacks.

 

Getting the keel back on is relatively easy.

First get the keel sitting in cradle vertical.

Then lowering hull onto keel.

 

One simple cheap way to see if boat is trimmed correctly fore & aft and admidships is to use a length of clear hose (or sight glasses at each end of another) or the same hose filled with water. Tie ends to hull / side decks. Surprisingly the water will be level in both tubes and then just adjust the hull so the water is level at the waterline at both ends / sides as desired.

 

We used this method with graduated sight glasses and were able to level even big yachts (80ft) quickly and efficently, to within 1/4 of a mm or less, first time, every time.

 

The curvature of the earth will be insignificant over 7m, or even 30m.

[Guest]

Thanks.

 

Using water in tubes to find balance for the hull is a nice little gem. thanks

I might run round the local hardstands talking to the guys that work there.

Its unlikely Okahu would allow drums and bottle jacks (I could be wrong though)

 

cheers

[PaulR 3]

Perhaps I should have worded my comments:

 

"Once upon a time, many many years ago, as a young university student, well in the past mellinieum (?spell?) . . . . we used oil drums etc.

 

This was well before OSH was even conceived, let alone born or in nappies

[Norwegian Blue 10]

Milford is a pleasnat place to work and they are all very helpful but you need to be a member to use the facilities.

 

They have bottle jacks, heaps of bits of wood, oil drums cradles etc. as all the work is manual rather than cranes etc.

[Guest]

All of the above. Just do it in the morning - early in the weekend. No staff, no one watching. This weekend will be good as everyone will be watching Round the Bays. Just get in before they close the road.

Seriously, it is only a little boat, and taking your time following the advice above should be fine. Your biggest risk is dropping the keel sideways if the bolts go. Prepare for that and you will be ok.

[smithy09 50]

Nice work there on a budget Cowlum!!

[Chewing Gum 17]

Years ago we lifted a wooden lotus 10.6 on oil drums and slid the keel (on a cradle) underneath using a tractor. We did have have a bit of a scare when one of the drums started collapsing but the 10.6 is way heavier than your boat so it should be no problem at all. Just make a small steel cradle to hold the keel first.

[Guest]

never ever use oil drums without the bungs in and sealed, and yes I speak from experience here

[rigger 47]

+1

[Chewing Gum 17]

Another thing make sure the drums don't have any dents as that will weaken them.

What difference do the bungs make ? Fumes / explosions ?

[Marshy 30]

I would say they keep the pressure up inside the drums stopping them crushing or denting?

[rigger 47]

You can fill the drums with water to make them more stable, and as long as the bungs are in and tight and there are no holes in the drums they should handle more weight without crushing.

As CG says better to use drums with no dents.

[Guest]

I was down at Okahu bay today where another simple option was put forward.

A little variant bilge keeler had recently had its keels removed.

The owner (or hired builder) had simply cut the keels off. I presume they hired a large sawzill.

 

The boat was supported by stands and two heavy duty straps hung from the cradle.

(see pic)

My little Variant also has a layer of wood 50mm thick between the hull and the keel.

 

It would be easy to lift the majority of the weight through use of the straps and stands.

Then cut through the wood and keel bolts with the sawzill, cutting as close to the hull as possible so thats its easy to get a purchase on the bolts left in the keel when removing them later.

Slide the keel out the front.

Smash/drill the bolts from the hull.

When putting it all back together you would need to feed the new bolts in from above.

 

Its another option. I probably wont be dealing with it this year anyway...

[Chewing Gum 17]

Looks like a good system