w44vi

I have used a hiab truck to remove boat motors, make life much easier

I put a steel rod thru the pin holes so you can pull aganst each other, when you put the hub back on make sure you put a good amout of marine grease on the spline

Do they sell it in 20kg containers ?

From the Trade Me ad "The water tight integrity is somewhat compromised due to the (localised) areas of erosion & resultant water ingress There was a towel/rag pushed in to a hull breach at waterline. The port side appeared to have more areas of potential diminished (watertight) integrity, however there was a similar occurrences on both sides." It would take enormous amounts of money to make the hull water tight. The Detroit hasn't run for many years (decades) and the steel superstructure is so rusty you can see thru it. The harbour master has said that they would not let

I guess they left the bung out ?

How well does the prop speed work on the sail drive ?

Should stop you guys getting cold when eating your roast dinner in next years 24 hr race

You could also try you local wreckers or mechanic for an old cast Iron engine block they work well

I have in mine the fuel / oil filter numbers, impeller numbers oil grade and quantity for engine and sail drive

Sounds like a head gaskit , but could be in the heat exchanger too based of you coment about the reduced flow from the raw water flow

Zinc (saltwater) rule of thumb was replace when 1/2 used

Aleana are you using copper based anti foul next to your sail drive ?

They were built to a standard not a price

Yes there are a few of us on here

I use lanolin seems to work ok, it is easy to remove the paddle wheel and can be re apply in the water too