K4309

I'm not really following why you are upset? You've put a new AF over an existing ablative. Ablatives are designed to fall off. What has happened? Its fallen off? Then, in other patches you've applied the new AF direct to original undercoat. Does this mean you haven't used an epoxy barrier / tie coat such as interprotect? Again, if I've read your post correctly,and you've applied an ablative AF direct to glass (over wood), why are you surprised you are having problems? You need an expoxy sealer / tie coat. You haven't mentioned why you changed from Altex #5 to Warpaint? you

Are you talking about a ferro dinghy here? Might have some merits for a dinghy permanently in the water.

Note that a lot of fishing boats are 'actively' anchoring and fishing. This is usually in dodgy spots like trying to stray line onto reefs etc. Or in the middle of busy shipping areas, South end of Tiri Channel, Motuihe Channel. In that context I think keeping a proper lookout at anchor is entirely appropriate. At anchor at the back end of Bon Accord at 3 am not so much. Considering 98% of recreational boaties are fisho's in fizz boats, it is entirely likely the numpties 'interpreting' this rule have completely overlooked the fact that there is a small number of boaties that sleep on

My cheap PVC dink is lasting very well. But it is stored out of the sun and weather (in a dinghy locker). I think its 3 to 5 yrs old. What I can say is, based on talking to the supplier at the boat show, the replacement price has doubled. So based on the current rate of inflation, how old does that make it? 6 months? If left in the sun, these ones go to sh*t very quickly. Also, sunblock softens the plastiziers in the PVC. If you lather the sproglets in sunblock and then all jump in the dink to go to the beach, it gets all over the tubes. There are 3 solutions, wash the dinghy down wi

Sorry, I didn't read past this bit. I don't want to use anything YNZ has. Not the RRS. Not the Handicapping system. I want to be a member and use the assets of the Weiti BC, the Club rooms, moorings, hand stand and haulout. Currently YNZ have jacked the system so that for me, as a cruiser with a young family, I have to subsidise their 5 ringed circus. Currently it is not possible to be a member of a 'boating' club and not pay a large levy to YNZ. If they were doing any advocacy for common or garden variety boaties, then so be it, but they aren't. What is worse is they just pay lipser

I don't think that is the best analogy CD. YNZ is not a club. It is a National Body, or otherwise referred to as a National Authority, esp with respect to category ratings and a national handicaping system. Originally it was a Federation of Yacht Clubs, put together to represent those clubs on a national scale. It is simply not doing that now. At best, it is an extension of High Performance Sport NZ. Something needs to change. Many people have said it. Nothing has happened yet. Keen to hear your ideas.

You are struggling with reading comprehension aren't you? Lets see if I can simplify the explanation. Large club has 500 members. Only 20 want to race. Club wants to run a race programme, but would prefer not to hand over $30k p.a. to YNZ for the privilege. Existing club sets up a 'paper club' for the purposes of running racing. Said paper club can be domiciled in the premises of large existing club. Large existing club stops paying $30k p.a. to YNZ. Small paper club consisting of 20 members affiliates to YNZ, pays approx $600 for the privilege. Job done.

I've been pondering this, and EM's point. There should be a straight forward way around an entire club's membership paying cash to YNZ, when only a select few want to race. Now, what constitutes a club? It doesn't have to have clubrooms and assets. SSANZ is a good example of that. I assume (without going and checking) its going to need something like a constitution, a functioning committee and be registered as some sort of non-profit legal entity (like a Society, Trust or Club or something). Now, what is to stop two clubs sharing clubrooms / a venue? So we could have the Weiti

Yup, the sole reason for YNZ's existence is a copyright issue. The single thing that keeps YNZ levying our yacht clubs, and us, so much, is that they control the copyright of the racing rules of sailing, via world sailing. When the Weiti BC moved to withdraw from YNZ, and all the paid staff came and gate crashed out SGM (accept, of course his holiness) the only thing they could come up with that the Weiti BC would miss out on was the RRS. Nothing else. Nil. Zip. Nadda. Imagine what the launch owners and Ma & Pa cruisers thought of that?

With respect, I think all you guys have been conned. The real question is, why are we funding a federation of yacht clubs with enough resources to employ comm's specialists to worry about doing survey's on laws that haven't changed for decades? Yachting NZ are about as effective as a pimple on my arse for anything that matters. They didn't even know about the caulerpa ban in the BoI until I phoned them, so clearly weren't engaged with govt departments and advocating for boaties, nor influencing any decisions. They've left all the heavy lifting to the AYBA on one of the most existenti

Is this first photos State Highway 1 at the Brynderwynns?

I would not rely on the NtM being correct. The Harbour Master would struggle to organise a root in a whore house. There were no NtM for the two missing / damaged Weiti River beacons listed as damaged, so I phoned to report them. This was approx 2 months after they would have been damaged in either the Anniversary Day floods or Cyclone Gabriel. He was like 'yeah, we know about them, already ordered the materials and waiting for the contractor to fix them'. I asked if he should perhaps issue a NtM for them? (said with incredulity and sarcasm) He was like, "oh yeah, that's a good idea..

I thought you old skool types just used a bucket?

I believe I've worked out the compensation limit question. It is temperature compensation. Mid point is 25degC. Ambient temp currently is about 15degC, i.e. 10 deg lower than mid point. My new batteries have temperature compensation of 30mV/C. A random example Victron VRLA battery has 24mV/C. At 10 degrees cooler, the regulator is adding 0.3v / 0.24v to the target voltage to compensate for the cooler ambient temp. I expect that if I warmed up the temp probe to 35degC, the regulator would reduce the bulk charge voltage by 0.3v. If this is correct, A. I can test it really easily b

Hi IT, I haven't been able to get the fuse to blow again. Would this change your recommendation on replacing the unit? Started and ran the engine several times today, behaved normally. If I take the fuse out it will run at high voltage. Put it back in, runs fine. Note that we did have the sense wire on the house batts, which is behind the VSR and therefore can't be 'seen' by the alternator when it is closed. I've shifted the sense wire to the start batt, which can always be seen by the alternator. We've also determined why we don't get a high voltage alarm. The lead from th

Hi IT, What is the regulator supposed to do when the sense fuse blows? And is there any tests or a 'recreation' I can run to confirm there is a problem with the regulator?

Mwahaha Russel is in Europe somewhere at the moment supporting a small team racing moths (I think his son).

You sure its not just your animal magnetism? Are they southern hemisphere compasses? Northern hemisphere ones are different, and 90% of compasses sold globally are northern hemisphere. I don't actually know how they are different, but they are different. And no, its not just the needle pointing south instead of north. If they are brand new (2 months old) and procured in a hurry before departure, this may not have been checked.

It is only a problem when the sense fuse has blown. Everything works fine (as it has for the last 20 odd years) when the fuse is in place. Someone on here posed the question the other day, why is the regulator not alarming / telling us its lost the sense wire? I think if I can resolve that question, it will resolve / explain the basic issue. Yes, we can programme the Regulator. It is actually on Pro2, FLA. (The old house batts were FLA). BUT, it has always given a bulk charge of 14.8v, and Pro2 doesn't use 14.8v. It uses 14.4 I think. So it is likely my father did a user programme at

We have a battery monitor that we are setting an alarm up from. To a light on the dashboard. The first time we had this issue (15.6v) there was an alarm going. That was when we were trying to charge the batteries up from 7 volts. I assumed that was an under voltage alarm. The key issue that we need to resolve, is that the regulator is seeing 14.8 when the batteries are getting 15.6. That is why the regulator isn't triggering an alarm (although it doesn't make sense why the 15.6 happens to be the high voltage limit) At the same time, we have parasitic loads we are trying to identify. It is poss

Throw which bit out? the regulator?

The update is that I've fixed the problem, but I have no idea how... If the sense wire fuse is in place and not blown, everything runs fine, and the batts receive 14.8v, and the regulator sees the the correct voltage. If I pull out the 1 amp sense wire fuse, the regulator thinks it sees 14.8v (no idea how) but the batts receive 15.6 ish. All the diagnostic tests on the regulator passed. So no problems with our 20yr old regulator I checked the resistance on everything I could find, pulled every wire off the regulator and checked resistance there. Then pulled the alternator off th

Yeah, but the Harbour Master can't handle basic things like issueing Notice to Mariners. Like I say, I got less sense out of the HM than my 8yr old while he's watch. I think the media would be well placed to get some traction on this. Not a lot of people want an old wreck of a boat sitting in the marine environment.

Edit, tomorrow we are planning on running a series of tests as per the Balmar manual to check for faults in the regulator, wiring harness or alternator. This will include a full check on the voltage sensing wire, field wire and ignition wire. We expect the alternator to be fine, as it is putting out more than enough ergs. As per the opening sentence in the Balmar manual, the majority of faults are in wiring and connections, so we are hoping to find the gremlin there somewhere. Really don't want to replace the regulator, they aren't cheap. These tests should be just like defusing a bo

We have a Balmar MC612 alternator regulator. It has a voltage sensing wire to the house batteries with a 1 amp fuse. The 1 amp fuse is blowing, and the alternator is giving both the start and house batts 15.6v. Any ideas on what to check? Everything keeps running with the fuse blown. It appears this fuse has been blown for some time. Replaced it today and it failed asap... We have a bunch of other related issues we are working through: 1) Parasitic loads on both the start and house batts. Start is about 4 or 5 mA (if I've got my units right). House is about 10mA with the isolato