K4309

I've been pondering this, and EM's point. There should be a straight forward way around an entire club's membership paying cash to YNZ, when only a select few want to race. Now, what constitutes a club? It doesn't have to have clubrooms and assets. SSANZ is a good example of that. I assume (without going and checking) its going to need something like a constitution, a functioning committee and be registered as some sort of non-profit legal entity (like a Society, Trust or Club or something). Now, what is to stop two clubs sharing clubrooms / a venue? So we could have the Weiti

Yup, the sole reason for YNZ's existence is a copyright issue. The single thing that keeps YNZ levying our yacht clubs, and us, so much, is that they control the copyright of the racing rules of sailing, via world sailing. When the Weiti BC moved to withdraw from YNZ, and all the paid staff came and gate crashed out SGM (accept, of course his holiness) the only thing they could come up with that the Weiti BC would miss out on was the RRS. Nothing else. Nil. Zip. Nadda. Imagine what the launch owners and Ma & Pa cruisers thought of that?

With respect, I think all you guys have been conned. The real question is, why are we funding a federation of yacht clubs with enough resources to employ comm's specialists to worry about doing survey's on laws that haven't changed for decades? Yachting NZ are about as effective as a pimple on my arse for anything that matters. They didn't even know about the caulerpa ban in the BoI until I phoned them, so clearly weren't engaged with govt departments and advocating for boaties, nor influencing any decisions. They've left all the heavy lifting to the AYBA on one of the most existenti

Is this first photos State Highway 1 at the Brynderwynns?

I would not rely on the NtM being correct. The Harbour Master would struggle to organise a root in a whore house. There were no NtM for the two missing / damaged Weiti River beacons listed as damaged, so I phoned to report them. This was approx 2 months after they would have been damaged in either the Anniversary Day floods or Cyclone Gabriel. He was like 'yeah, we know about them, already ordered the materials and waiting for the contractor to fix them'. I asked if he should perhaps issue a NtM for them? (said with incredulity and sarcasm) He was like, "oh yeah, that's a good idea..

I thought you old skool types just used a bucket?

I believe I've worked out the compensation limit question. It is temperature compensation. Mid point is 25degC. Ambient temp currently is about 15degC, i.e. 10 deg lower than mid point. My new batteries have temperature compensation of 30mV/C. A random example Victron VRLA battery has 24mV/C. At 10 degrees cooler, the regulator is adding 0.3v / 0.24v to the target voltage to compensate for the cooler ambient temp. I expect that if I warmed up the temp probe to 35degC, the regulator would reduce the bulk charge voltage by 0.3v. If this is correct, A. I can test it really easily b

Hi IT, I haven't been able to get the fuse to blow again. Would this change your recommendation on replacing the unit? Started and ran the engine several times today, behaved normally. If I take the fuse out it will run at high voltage. Put it back in, runs fine. Note that we did have the sense wire on the house batts, which is behind the VSR and therefore can't be 'seen' by the alternator when it is closed. I've shifted the sense wire to the start batt, which can always be seen by the alternator. We've also determined why we don't get a high voltage alarm. The lead from th

Hi IT, What is the regulator supposed to do when the sense fuse blows? And is there any tests or a 'recreation' I can run to confirm there is a problem with the regulator?

Mwahaha Russel is in Europe somewhere at the moment supporting a small team racing moths (I think his son).

You sure its not just your animal magnetism? Are they southern hemisphere compasses? Northern hemisphere ones are different, and 90% of compasses sold globally are northern hemisphere. I don't actually know how they are different, but they are different. And no, its not just the needle pointing south instead of north. If they are brand new (2 months old) and procured in a hurry before departure, this may not have been checked.

It is only a problem when the sense fuse has blown. Everything works fine (as it has for the last 20 odd years) when the fuse is in place. Someone on here posed the question the other day, why is the regulator not alarming / telling us its lost the sense wire? I think if I can resolve that question, it will resolve / explain the basic issue. Yes, we can programme the Regulator. It is actually on Pro2, FLA. (The old house batts were FLA). BUT, it has always given a bulk charge of 14.8v, and Pro2 doesn't use 14.8v. It uses 14.4 I think. So it is likely my father did a user programme at

We have a battery monitor that we are setting an alarm up from. To a light on the dashboard. The first time we had this issue (15.6v) there was an alarm going. That was when we were trying to charge the batteries up from 7 volts. I assumed that was an under voltage alarm. The key issue that we need to resolve, is that the regulator is seeing 14.8 when the batteries are getting 15.6. That is why the regulator isn't triggering an alarm (although it doesn't make sense why the 15.6 happens to be the high voltage limit) At the same time, we have parasitic loads we are trying to identify. It is poss

Throw which bit out? the regulator?

The update is that I've fixed the problem, but I have no idea how... If the sense wire fuse is in place and not blown, everything runs fine, and the batts receive 14.8v, and the regulator sees the the correct voltage. If I pull out the 1 amp sense wire fuse, the regulator thinks it sees 14.8v (no idea how) but the batts receive 15.6 ish. All the diagnostic tests on the regulator passed. So no problems with our 20yr old regulator I checked the resistance on everything I could find, pulled every wire off the regulator and checked resistance there. Then pulled the alternator off th

Yeah, but the Harbour Master can't handle basic things like issueing Notice to Mariners. Like I say, I got less sense out of the HM than my 8yr old while he's watch. I think the media would be well placed to get some traction on this. Not a lot of people want an old wreck of a boat sitting in the marine environment.

Edit, tomorrow we are planning on running a series of tests as per the Balmar manual to check for faults in the regulator, wiring harness or alternator. This will include a full check on the voltage sensing wire, field wire and ignition wire. We expect the alternator to be fine, as it is putting out more than enough ergs. As per the opening sentence in the Balmar manual, the majority of faults are in wiring and connections, so we are hoping to find the gremlin there somewhere. Really don't want to replace the regulator, they aren't cheap. These tests should be just like defusing a bo

We have a Balmar MC612 alternator regulator. It has a voltage sensing wire to the house batteries with a 1 amp fuse. The 1 amp fuse is blowing, and the alternator is giving both the start and house batts 15.6v. Any ideas on what to check? Everything keeps running with the fuse blown. It appears this fuse has been blown for some time. Replaced it today and it failed asap... We have a bunch of other related issues we are working through: 1) Parasitic loads on both the start and house batts. Start is about 4 or 5 mA (if I've got my units right). House is about 10mA with the isolato

I don't know what is going on with the boat, but I saw it being towed around on Wednesday. I was fishing off Army Bay. Looked like a regular fizz boat towing it. One guy on the hulk, not much else to say. I see it is on a mooring in Tindals. Dodgy as f*ck if you ask me. It isn't close to seaworth. No Keel, no motor, no rigging. It is literal just a hulk. Buggered if I know what they will do with it at Tindals, other than wait for it to bust off and end up on the rocks. Cheap storage. I pondered talking to the Harbour Master about it. But they don't have a requirement for boats to be sea-

Putting out mooring buoys is an easy and logical way to mitigate the impact of the CAN's, to get boaties onboard, AND to assist in an actual sustainable long term containment strategy. And I suspect if they were done en masse the cost would be very low compared to the current regime if diving inspections, commercial divers, dive boats etc.

Clearly wasn't seen. It's what happens when you try taking dedicated ocean racers around harbour courses / enclosed waters. These are the IMOCA's, where all of the crew are downstairs out of the weather and sh*t tonnes of crashing waves over the deck. Ideal in the southern ocean or sending it across the North Atlantic at average speeds of 30knts. Hopeless for match racing. Side note, thank good they got some boats that give the crew protection for the ocean race. The Volvo 60's or what ever they are called are frankly ridiculous with the tonnes of water washing over exposed crew. The

I could recommend an insurance company that doesn't require rig inspections if you want. There is this perception about rigs older than 10 yrs, but every time I've discussed changing my standing rigging with riggers, they point out the 10 yrs thing is not important and is only driven by insurance co's. Brand new rigs can drop. 20 yr old rigs can be fine, its about. You can change all the standing rigging to comply with an insurance co's 10 yr thing, and the backing plates in the mast wont be changed, which is the weakest point (rig falls down if backing plate cracks and rig terminal pulls

No, you'd be great. The more left field or nuttier the author, the more interesting the book PS, that is intended as a compliment.

This is exactly what I'm on about. The regulatory framework across NZ is fractionated by areas of responsibility (international shipping and local cruising boats) and geographical areas. So far, they have only found it where they have looked for it. There are many, many places they haven't looked for it. One of my favourite ruse's is to say "we have not failed any quality testing" on x, y, z, food, water quality etc. This is a true statement, regardless of weather you've carried out any testing or not. If you don't test, you can't fail a test. I got a roasting once in a summer job as

I think a stop at the Mokes is logical. You can speed up the delivery by slowing the work down. Take a break to re-assess, check over, confirm your plan, etc. That, and if I was a CG volunteer and was putting in that many hours, I'd want to take the chance to check out the Mokes on the way past. I've never been there.