Island Time

Indeed. There is one here at GH that's using the 2025 draft already. I think that's wrong, as it is not even a ratified standard yet, and may not be...

Interesting. My understanding is that the 2014 standard is cited and legal. As usual, the one hand does not know what the other is doing... Also, on the NZ standards website" AS/NZS 3004.2:2014 Current

So currently there is no retrospectivity clause. Every boat would have to meet this standard. Part of the draft says that there may be NO PVC insulation on cables. This means every boat I know of would need to be re-wired. There is a requirement for fireproof (and certified) battery boxes for all Lithium chemistries. This means a system designed by an engineer, and approved by a fire engineer. IMO this is totally impractical. There is a requirement for negative pressure in the battery compartment, and min airflows, yet it has to be sealed fireproof. I have posted my comme

Here is the link for the draft- https://www.amsa.gov.au/news-community/news-and-media-releases/have-your-say-draft-standards-electrical-installations-now?fbclid=IwY2xjawN0wutleHRuA2FlbQIxMQABHk9dlVaCqrokFhRi2nc_xoLIShZ8jcgx6ih_ax446qILIeFluR3IJ7jahtLA_aem_nec3_FTiIXcBDcJqK9wjcw

Caltex Orewa https://caltex.co.nz/find-a-station/station/caltex-orewa

Modern Radar is a better watch keeper than most crew - can can have a LOT of different alarms - Zones, Proximity, Collision risk (via MARPA or Doppler), and can, via a relay, run any alarm you want. Low power consumption, never needs a piss, doesn't get tired, grumpy, or distracted...

They seem to be getting worse. Best not to be anywhere near this!

Done the response form...

Lithium is the way to go - IF you are going to keep the boat. Its worth the extra initial cost, as the per cycle cost is way less than lead acid. Advantages are Weight Speed of charging is WAY better - even with same charging sources. Capacity - you can use 90% of most LiFePo4 cells, but on 50% of Lead acid based. HUGELY better cycle life - like the ones I have are 11,000 cycles - lead acid is about 700 Disadvantages; Cost up front Ancillary changes needed - to protect alternator, and to comply with AS/NZ3004 requirements. Just remember

You mean waterproofing?? Tent magic, or tent magic ultra. Paint on. Works great...

Same for my customers who have done it. They say considerably easier than Cat1 was...

IMO if you think you can use a legal additive and improve an antifouling designed by industrial chemists and biologists you're dreaming. Most likely you'll make it worse. The most effective ingredient was Tributyltin - now illegal in most jurisdictions. See https://ftloscience.com/tragic-tale-tributyltin/

Done. You can see freezer temp circled in red. Now got to get the eutectic fluid to be solid frozen at about -21....

Almost there ...

Coming along slowly...

Umm, nope, that would be against the laws of Physics. You don't get anything for nothing!

I generally use Balmar. But Arco make some good hot rated ones as well, and paired with their Zeus regulator make a great solution.

That would be a Mitsubishi alternator, with the yellow voltage sense wire. 115a. They are not a bad alternator, with internal temp sensing and battery voltage sense. Not as good as a Balmar though, but good for a factory alt. I had the same one - but have since updated to a 250a Balmar. HUGE difference in charge rates - the Balmar is backed off, but maintains about 150a indefinitely.... With a cooling duct led to it...

Usually they get caught in the front of the heat exchanger - just take off the front end and look if needed...

Any time if you see us!

Haha, true Dat! Had that hammer for nearly 50 years! Hinges and handles now on - but I buggered up one of the lids trying to get the right clearances, so progress was slower over the weekend than I would have liked. Waiting for the formica to arrive....

Max rpm of a D1-30 is 3200rpm. It is important to ensure that the motor can reach this rev limit under power, when everything is in good order (clean hull, prop, normal vessel loading). So, the black is carbon. White smoke is steam, and means the exhaust is too hot. Does not mean the motor is overheating (yet). So, is the hull and prop clean? When was the heat exchanger last cleaned? Exhaust elbow cleaned? This is all basic periodic maintenance. Once those things are all good, if it wont pull the 3200 RPM, prop is too large/pitch to high, or the engine is not producing specified HP...

Hinges, handles, bit more sanding, then formica.

Here is a pic of how the system works...