Island Time

But the point is Wheels, NONE of those batts were LifePo4.

While that is true Wheels, anything with energy can be dangerous. LifePo4 is the safest lithium tech, with lower power density than some, and fairly high temps required for thermal runaway. Statistics are starting to show its less dangerous than AGM from what I've read so far...

OK, looks like a grubscrew or friction pin in the bronze gear. Unscrew it or punch it out. Looks like you've taken the bolt out of the clamp? Try to spread the to of the clamp sufficiently to be larger than the surrounding lip. Look in the hole at the top of the shaft in the alloy casting - that can have a grub screw as well, locating into a groove in the shaft. Seized how - can't rotate, or cant withdraw shaft?

Great Post CD, totally agree. LifePo4 is not a problem if correctly installed, incl fuses. Personally I'd be very wary of any other Lithium Chemistry in a boat.

I just thought, in view of potentially a fire being started by a direct short to a lithium bank, I should post something about AIC -Amperage Interrupt Current - of a fuse, esp a battery fuse. Yes, you should have a battery fuse on all your batts! If you have changed to lifepo4, or are thinking of it, and have battery fuses, they may not be suitable for fusing this type of bank. ANL fuses, are not normally rated to a high enough AIC for lithium batts, but are good for lead Acid. So, what is AIC? AIC is the amount of current that the fuse can interrupt - more than the AIC can set up an

If it's LifePo4, it is extremely unlikely to be the batteries themselves, but, if unfused (or fused with wrong spec fuses) a direct short can be 1000's of amps, and the cables can catch fire. Poorly spec'd fuses wont break the connection, and, without a break, can be pretty hard to stop!

https://www.nzherald.co.nz/nz/fire-at-pine-harbour-marina-beachlands-motor-yacht-destroyed-five-others-damaged/67XLAWYRPQM2MLKS6VOAWPYOAM/

Trash the update file and download again...also make certain the Zeus 2 is up to date 1st.

2 terminators, right? One on each end of the bus, and the 2 devices on Ts and drop cables, plus the one for bus power....

No. THE Zeus 2 is just a device, same as any other. If you can't do it, see my post above, navico can fo it at Albany, or I can do it if you can get it to me.

One knot on a stationary boat's GPS is pretty common, and not due to unit quality or any fault. It's due to the error present in the GPS signal. This is one of the multiple reasons that GPS only is a dangerous way to navigate. If a bulkhead mounted MFD (Plotters are obsolete! - its a Multi Function Display), where the GPS is positioned in the bulkhead can be problematic in some installs - if the bulkhead is thick, and covers the GPS antenna location, you are asking the antenna to "see" through the whole depth of material up to the deck/cabin top - could be 300mm or more. That wont work we

If you want cheap and under the deck, one of these works fine... https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/marketplace/electronics-photography/gps/gps-accessories/listing/3498822278?bof=ipTx3Wl9 It has the SMA adapter, but if your AIS does not have an SMA connector, easy enough to buy a SMA-BNC adapter.

Yes you should. I've put in lots of GPS units for AIS under the deck. works fine.

OK, that's a different question. Post some pics of the damage and area of flex, and we can post some repair ideas?

Richard Edlin. 021416531, Or BNG on here...

Nyalic will work for a while, but will Crack and peel eventually. I considered all this, and decided to repaint. Too hard/expensive to remove all the paint to leave bare. Sanded, epoxy prime and topcoat, with brush/roller. Came out pretty good. Last paint job lasted over 20 years.

They have an internal battery to remember where they last were. Sounds like it’s flat. Some are easy to replace, some not. Open it and have a look…

Unfortunately the digital radars are all proprietary, so to see which MFDs are supported, you have to look on the Radar vendor's website to ascertain which MFD's will work, but only Raymarine works with Raymarine, and only Navico (Lowrance, Simrad, B&G) works with Navico. E80s are more of a portrait hole size, all the new MFD's are more landscape. Mostly I have to cover the old dash (piece of Carbon, White or Black Acrylic works well and avoids painting) and cut a new hole. The E80 chart cartridge wont fit any of the new MFD's from any Vendor. May as well sell them with the E80s

If you can feed the corrected wind dir into nmea2000 (Vulcan) or Zeus3, or NMEA0183 (Zeus 3 only), that would work. I've not personally used an Openwind unit, so I'm not certain how that one works...

Yeah, rotating masts are an issue. Its pricey as the B&G solution requires a B&G Hercules H5000 system and a mast rotation sensor - you can use a rudder angle sensor and mechanical link, or one like this https://nz.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Honeywell/SPS-A100D-HAWS?qs=VPR2Pdj9HgAzdLnn7pUFgg%3D%3D, but you need the H5000.... here is this sensor installed;

Once you use a new MFD you won't want to use an Ipad, except for remoting the MFD! Better displays, better GPS, wide viewing angle, sunlight viewable, dim right down at night, night color selections, touch and buttons, etc. All the current MFDs have wifi built in, and an app to display and control the MFD from Ipad or Andriod. Good for lying in your bunk and checking what's happening on deck! You can still use Navionics charts if you wish, but Navico now only supply Cmap - which they own. Navionics is now owned by Garmin. Halo Radars start at $2300, but the one I recommend is $3K - Halo

Not really. what I'm saying is check out a modern system and see if its benefits are worthwhile for you. Everyone is different. However to answer your question, 2 9" Zeus 3s displays, Dual display wireless wind with a DST810 (Depth/Speed/Temp), and a NAC 3 AP computer is circa 16K. That's using your existing AIS, and existing AP drive unit. Of course you could add more - VHF, Fwd scan sonar, wireless handset for VHF, Halo 20+ Radar - the list is pretty endless! Your existing system is still saleable, but not for a lot!

Hi Jon, take a look at what the new stuff does - lower power consumption, better displays, better steering etc .... Then make up your mind!

Most boats now use only adhesive for window fasteners, including offshore boats. Modern adhesives can be stronger than the laminates they attach to. But your boat, your call.

Power boat or Sail? If you look at radar image comparisons, you'd buy a Halo radar - Simrad for Power vessel, B&G for Yacht. IMO the Simrad or B&G are the market leaders. As the other post above says, E80 era Raymarine has NOTHING in common with their modern stuff, it will ALL have to be replaced, so look around and see what you like. If you are around, or can visit Gulf Harbor, I'd be happy to show you some options.. Send me a PM, or call 0221539176, Matt